Egg yolk for a Golden Age; the room; Maloney at work Rob Warner

August 24, 2007

The Violet Hour
1520 N. Damen
773-252-1500

Around four o’clock one morning in mid-June, Toby Maloney and his business partner Jason Cott were frantically unpacking liquor in preparation for the opening of their new Wicker Park bar, the Violet Hour, coming up just a week later. They’d been up for two days straight, and Maloney, a veteran barkeep who’s worked at Manhattan’s Milk and Honey, the Pegu Club, and other temples of classic cocktail culture, was worrying over a new rum-based drink he had yet to perfect. Then from one of the boxes he produced a bottle of cherry Heering, the Danish brandy liqueur.

“His eyes sort of glaze over and he starts grabbing bottles and scooping ice,” Cott says. “He’s grabbing at things and smelling, dismissing. He’s almost throwing $50 bottles of booze over his shoulder. I’m trying to scribble notes because he can’t even remember what he’s putting in there half the time. Eventually he lets out this big sigh and he goes, ‘Here! Taste it!’ And it’s one of the most delicious things I’ve ever had.”

Maloney named the drink the Golden Age, after the abandoned Colorado gold mine on whose grounds he was raised, and gave it a place among the 31 new and classic cocktails on the Violet Hour’s summer menu. It’s a tall, icy, sunset-colored potion of amber Brugal Añejo rum, cherry Heering, lemon bitters, and an egg yolk for body and a silky mouth feel. “I was really set on having an egg-yolk drink on the menu because it’s not been done before very often,” he says. “And I also wanted to color it with a little bit of red. Kind of a tip of the hat to the color of the soil and the sky.”

Maloney, 39, grew up in a log cabin his parents built above the mine and poured his first drink—a glass of wine—at 13 while busing weekly dinners at the restaurant/general store in the nearest town. In the early 90s, after culinary school in San Francisco, a succession of cooking jobs, and trips abroad to satisfy his wanderlust, he made his way to Chicago, where he burned out on the line at the late Blue Mesa and asked to be switched to a job behind the bar. “I never looked back,” he says. “It was love at first pour—the show, the interaction, the cute girls, the free-flowing alcohol.” He went on to sling drinks at Mas, Ezuli, and Soul Kitchen.

Eleven years ago he moved to New York and that experience paid off at high-volume clubs like Eugene, where he met Cott, a book editor moonlighting to make ends meet. For months the pair worked side by side on nights when drinkers were four deep at the bar and it was typical to ring up $10,000 in a few hours. The pace was so frantic the bumps and scrapes they suffered—from ice, broken glass, run-ins with just about anything behind the bar—often went unnoticed. “All of a sudden you couldn’t see your computer screen,” says Maloney. “You realize you have like four or five serious cuts on your fingers and there’s blood all over the screen.”

In the late 90s Maloney got a job at the Village bistro Grange Hall, where he worked under Del Pedro, a renowned barkeep who used fresh juice, different bitters, and esoteric ingredients like Tanqueray Malacca Gin in artfully balanced libations. Maloney began carrying around his own shakers and digital thermometer, researching cocktail history, and developing his own drinks. He became a regular at Milk and Honey after it opened in 2000—still early days for the classic cocktail revival—and would sit at the bar for hours with owner Sasha Petraske and “geek out,” he says. “We’d stir a martini 17 times, take its temperature, stir it 29 times, take its temperature.”

Eventually Maloney took over Wednesday nights at Milk and Honey, stopping by the Chinatown markets to buy seasonal fruit before each shift and then using it to improvise on customer orders like “rum, sweet,” “gin, dry,” or “whiskey, spirituous.” He says the work was “like a baby stage of Iron Bartender.”

Three years ago, after putting in time at most of the high-end cocktail bars that opened after Milk and Honey, he once again teamed up with Cott, who had since worked a series of restaurant management positions. The two printed up business cards and started Alchemy Consulting, hiring themselves out to design drink menus and bars, train staff, and advise their clients on the business of booze.

Then about a year ago Maloney began talking with one of his old bosses from Soul Kitchen, Terry Alexander, about bringing a high-end classic cocktail bar to Chicago. They partnered with Cott and Blackbird’s Donnie Madia to open the Violet Hour in the space that formerly housed Del Toro and Mod, and Maloney and Cott transformed it into a dark, civilized retreat from the Wicker Park circus.

At the Violet Hour smoking is banned and cell phones must be turned off, and though the legal seating capacity is 156, not many more than 100 customers are allowed in at a time. The tranquil environment allows for a full sensory appreciation of the double-filtered water and ice (in eight different shapes, sizes, and temperatures), fresh-squeezed juices, and house-made bitters (seven varieties) that go into Maloney’s creations—as well as the craft required to mix them. Bartenders have undergone 50 hours of training, plus homework—the reading list included excerpts from new and old texts like 2003’s The Joy of Mixology by Gary Regan and Charles H. Baker’s The Gentleman’s Companion from 1946. Avec sous chef Justin Large designed the small, imaginative snack menu—including a deep-fried brioche stuffed with peanut butter, banana, bacon, and honey—but the cocktails are the real focus here.

Maloney hates the term “bar chef”—too pretentious—but to watch his brisk, dexterous, meticulous mixing and hear him talk about his culinary inspirations invites the comparison. He says he was eating a pulled pork sandwich when he conceived his Blue Ridge Manhattan, for which a chilled, empty glass is rinsed with smoky, peaty Laphroaig scotch, then filled with rye and vermouth, and topped off with a few drops of hickory-infused peach bitters.

But that drink will soon be a thing of the past. As soon as the weather turns Maloney and Cott will roll out their fall menu, which includes a Sazerac poured in a glass rinsed with Berentzen’s Apfel Korn and accented with fresh apple to suggest apple pie. Cott promises it won’t be some treacly Apple Pucker confection. “It’s not gonna overwhelm the classic recipe with this indomitable flavor,” Maloney says. “It's just gonna be hints of things. And that’s what we try and do. We take classic recipes and make small subtle tweaks.” —Mike Sula

For more on restaurants, see our blog the Food Chain.

Rather Drink Than Eat?

Lounges and wine bars

Between Boutique Cafe & Lounge
1324 N. Milwaukee | 773-292-0585

$$$
BAR/LOUNGE, SMALL PLATES, GLOBAL/FUSION/ ECLECTIC | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY | OPEN LATE: TUESDAY-SATURDAY TILL 2

Deep red walls and red brocade chandeliers, cloistered alcoves outfitted with cushy sofas and sweeping fringe curtains, candles on every table, and orchids on every plate: sexy, romantic Between Boutique Cafe & Lounge seems designed to seal the deal. The late-night lounge serves booze-spiked bubble teas and a baker's dozen of luxurious small plates created by chef Radhika Desai, formerly sous chef at Vermilion. Sweet Heat Shrimp was five juicy grilled crustaceans glazed with a tangy sauce of garlic, curry, and honey; the Between Green salad was an ample portion of mixed greens spiked with avocado, mushrooms, candied cashews, and caramelized onions. Baturas are a house specialty, a twist on the Punjabi classic made with crispy fried bread stuffed with spicy ground beef, shiitakes, and scallions. At $18 the lobster trifecta -- a trio of bisque, risotto cakes, and maki -- is the most expensive thing on the menu, and was the only real disappointment. While the bisque was ethereal perfection, rich, light, and ever-so-slightly sweet, the risotto cakes were bland and the maki mealy and mushy. But three out of four ain't bad, and the casually luxe scene -- blessedly mellow for Friday night in Wicker Park -- is the real showstopper. Martha Bayne

Butterfly Social Club
722 W. Grand | 312-666-1695

$
BAR/LOUNGE | 10 PM-3 AM SATURDAY, 10 PM-2 AM TUESDAY-FRIDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY

If Frodo and the rest of the Shire dwellers ever had a tiki party, it might look a lot like the Butterfly Social Club. A wing-shaped bar dominates the intimate room, where woodsy masks adorn the walls and the aroma of cocoa butter wafts. Butterfly prides itself on its eco-friendly stance, echoed abundantly in its design: the bike in the front window powers the freezers, and the whimsical earthen interior allows for optimum acoustics. The drinks follow the green theme, containing locally sourced, mostly organic ingredients. Pirate's Booty, made with Steaz ginger ale and cane rum, is a fresh and biting delight. The All Island Iced Tea, which includes NoNi Kombucha tea, Pyrat rum, Ocean vodka, coconut water, and agave nectar, packs a tasty punch. Even familiar concoctions like sangrias and mimosas have an all-natural flavor that makes massive alcohol consumption seem almost healthy. For the designated driver there's a nonalcoholic drink menu with intriguing indulgences like a cacao frozen drink made with coconut-milk ice cubes or the Illumination Tonic, 100 percent organic orange juice mixed with 33 Amazon herbs and roots. Whatever you drink, go. Visiting the Butterfly Social Club is like taking a trip through the rabbit hole to a wonderland where clubs are friendly places and liquor tastes like nectar. Brenna Ehrlich

Chaise Lounge
1840 W. North | 773-342-1840

$$$
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, BAR/LOUNGE | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL 1

After my visit to Chaise Lounge I did some exploratory googling and was a little taken aback by all the negative reviews from disgruntled customers. Was it as satisfying as I remembered? Maybe I was there on a good night, but I enjoyed it. The menu, like the decor, has a retro feel that's most obvious in the list of specialty cocktails with names like the Deco and the Wingback, but the dishes hark backward as well, with French-inspired standards like duck confit and consomme receiving the inevitable contemporary twist. My friend said her frisee with poached egg, caramelized shallots, and bacon was "like breakfast" in a good way, crispy bacon adding a sweet edge. Also sweet, even a little cloying, was the apple cider reduction with chestnuts and raisin relish that accompanied unexpectedly mild slices of roast venison. Our server fumbled a bit when asked whether a side of potato wedges with Parmesan and truffles contained slices of truffle; I'm thinking that for $6 it was probably truffle oil, which often, it's been revealed, contains no truffles at all. The standout of the evening was a special that seemed to show Chaise Lounge is best when it resists the urge to gild the lily: a juicy pork chop special with a Dijon sauce and cauliflower gratin, the plain-Jane vegetable ranging in shades from cream to lavender and with an almost smoky flavor. Heather Kenny

Cobra Lounge
235 N. Ashland | 312-226-6300

$$
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN, BURGERS | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Last year the greasy-spoon coffee shop the G & Z was reborn as this dark, sleek rock 'n' roll lounge and restaurant with two bars, a DJ booth, and a small stage for live music. Comfy vinyl booths make it that much easier to enjoy the killer jukebox, which ranges from Motorhead to Talking Heads to John Lee Hooker. The menu holds standard but well-executed bar bites like chicken fingers and burgers. You might want to stick with one of the several excellent beers on tap: when we asked for a martini, the bartender gave us some good-natured ribbing, then spent several minutes hunting down a cocktail shaker. Rob Christopher

Cru Cafe & Wine Bar
25 E. Delaware | 312-337-4001

F 7.4 | S 6.9 | A 7.1 | $$ (7 reports)
BAR/LOUNGE, GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC, SMALL PLATES | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Outfitted with fancy chandeliers, cozy fireplaces, and lots of dark, pretty wood, Debra Sharpe's reincarnated Cru Cafe & Wine Bar exudes all the elegance and luxury you'd expect of the Gold Coast -- and at a commensurate price. Not surprisingly, the wine list is the centerpiece, with more than 50 wines, ports, brandies, grappas, and sakes available by the glass or in flights of three, plus 30 half-bottle options and another 400-odd bottles in the cellar. The menu offers a range of well-executed nibbles, from charcuterie and cheese plates to some substantial sandwiches and entrees, including a "Cru club" of Maine lobster, beef tenderloin, and avocado with chipotle mayo. Taken as a whole the scene at this space (next door to Sharpe's gourmet take-out shop the Goddess and Grocer) screams class, and it passes a critical test with flying colors: the warm hospitality the smooth staff showed this couple of scuzzy-looking night owls was downright gratifying. Martha Bayne

Eno
505 N. Michigan | 312-321-8738

$$
BAR/LOUNGE, SMALL PLATES | LUNCH: FRIDAY, SATURDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 1, SUNDAY-THURSDAY TILL MIDNIGHT

For a wine bar -- not to mention a wine bar specializing, for God's sake, in cheese and chocolate -- Eno is blessedly free of frills. In fact, it's downright manly inside this Hotel Intercontinental hideaway, with dim lighting, dark wood paneling and red leather walls, and comfy leather-backed bar stools. Wines, cheese, and chocolate are all available a la carte or as flights of three; you can make up your own or pick one from the extensive menu, which also includes charcuterie. With the help of a friendly bartender/cheese pusher as refreshingly low-key as the decor, I sampled a sinful truffled Gouda and two cave-aged Wisconsin cheeses, one of which -- Willi Lehner's Li'l Willi's Big Cheese -- was on special that month and a charter member of the stinky-foot cheese club. Wines range from $9 to $35 a glass, and of the 600 available by the bottle more than 50 are under $30. Martha Bayne

Enoteca Roma
2146 W. Division | 773-342-1011

F 8.5 | S 6.8 | A 6.8 | $ (5 reports)

ITALIAN, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL 11

This laid-back wine bar, or enoteca, is an extension of Letizia's Natural Bakery, a Wicker Park fixture since 1998. Connected to Letizia's cafe and back garden entrance by a short hallway, it offers Letizia's standard menu plus more than 20 varieties of bruschetta, whole pizzas, dinner salads, and a number of meat, cheese, bread, and olive combinations in the tradition of rustic Roman cuisine. Larger plates include a Salamini Flight -- salami and a trio of saucisson, served with grainy mustard, roasted red peppers, and Italian bread. It's enough for a light meal or ample snack for two. Enoteca Roma's specialty is, of course, wine, served without attitude: says owner-manager Fabio Sorano, "You can get PBR or you can get Pahlmeyer." Susannah Felts

Fat Cat
4840 N. Broadway | 773-506-3100

$
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

O the plague of the flat-panel television! It's what prevents a lounge like Fat Cat, with its 20s-and-30s-inspired lighting fixtures, curved booths, and elegant wood bar, from being the handsome, wholly comfortable spot it could be. On the other hand, one of the TVs was showing The Thin Man Goes Home, so I can't be too unforgiving. And the food and drinks are way above average. An excellent selection of beers on tap and in bottles is supplemented by a whimsical cocktail list. Try the Prohibition, a multihued variation on the Rum Runner that goes down smoothly. On the food side, burgers, salads, fried chicken, and $1 mini Cuban pork belly sandwiches (the last two available Wednesdays only) are all good bets. There are also creative appetizers like fried mac 'n' cheese and Reuben balls, bundles of corned beef and Swiss rolled inside rye dough and then deep-fried. The waitstaff is quite friendly without being obnoxious, and the large space easily accommodates groups. On Sundays there's free cornhole and tournaments. Rob Christopher

Halsted's Bar & Grill
3441 N. Halsted | 773-348-9696

$$
BAR/LOUNGE, BURGERS, PIZZA | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Let's start with the onion rings, something Philip K. Dick might have invented as the perfect drug: each puffy hoop as big as a doughnut and studded with coarse salt, the Bass Ale batter and the onion itself nearly atomizing the moment you bite down. It's exactly what you might want with a night's worth of alcohol in your bloodstream, and sure enough, Halsted's Bar & Grill has begun to corner the market on Boys Town bar food. The former X/O, which was lively but almost genteel, has been transformed into something resembling Sidetrack with food, complete with overly loud music, a large see-and-be-seen patio in the back jammed with guys (and the occasional girl), and a newly updated video jukebox. If that's your scene, you'll love it. Burgers, sandwiches, and salads (in very hearty portions) are complemented by slightly adventurous variations on old favorites. The meat loaf -- a deliciously spicy chorizolike version served with creamy mashed potatoes and green beans -- was outstanding, but the Athena pizza suffered under a load of unchopped toppings (feta, asparagus, and cherry tomatoes) piled helter-skelter. Service was attentive, but it's clear the kitchen is beginning to suffer from its own success -- it took upwards of 45 minutes for the entrees to appear, and Raters are likewise registering their discontent. Rob Christopher

Juicy Wine Company
694 N. Milwaukee | 312-492-6620

$$
EUROPEAN, SMALL PLATES, BAR/LOUNGE | LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, FRIDAY TILL 2, MONDAY-THURSDAY TILL 1, SUNDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

From the name you'd expect Juicy Wine Company to be all about the grape, but the instant you walk in the door it's clear the place is just as much about the cheese. A "retail plus" wine bar from Rodney Alex (formerly of Wicker Park's Taste), Juicy offers a dozen-odd "cheese experiences," a selection of cured meats, and even a butter "experience" that pairs three artisanal butters with various sea salts. Charcuterie includes salumi made by Seattle-based Armandino Batali (Mario's pop), and the Chocolate Smackdown dessert is the creation of Mindy Segal (Hot Chocolate). Wines served in-house are marked up a flat $15 over the retail price, making even the swankier bottles, like a seriously complicated 1994 Davis Family Russian River pinot noir, relatively accessible. Any bottle for sale in the shop is available at this "chill-out price"; there are also a dozen reds, whites, and bubblies by the glass. Downstairs the wood-trimmed, minimalist space is split between a wine wall and deli case in the front and a low-key seating area of tables and banquettes in the rear. Upstairs is a cozy bar and lounge, complete with DJ booth. The staff is casual and helpful -- Alex pressed a shaving of a rare Swiss something on us as we were halfway out the door -- and in all it's a pretty pleasant (er, "chill") scene. Frank Orrall of Poi Dog Pondering DJs every Friday. Martha Bayne

Lumen
839 W. Fulton | 312-733-2222

$
BAR/LOUNGE | 8 PM-2 AM THURSDAY-FRIDAY, 8 PM-3 AM SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY-WEDNESDAY

Lumen, Latin for "light," is in fact dark, very dark, but a beacon at night, since nothing else seems to be open past sunset on this desolate stretch of Fulton in the warehouse district. The ambience is modern, soothing, and almost naughty, a hybrid of Heywood-Wakefield, feng shui, and Studio 54, with blond wicker and eroticism in more or less equal proportions. And yes, there are beautiful people here, as you would expect, though they are difficult to see in the twinkle of tiny strobe lights. My companion commented over the throbbing dance music that this was the perfect place for the coke-and-ecstasy crowd: it even has an HD television that plays soothing images of plant life in an endless loop, eye candy for the narcotized. There's a sleek, metallic bar sans bar stools and low-slung couches resembling beds -- better for splaying than sitting. Martinis come in tumblers delivered by spot-on servers, attractive and high heeled; prices are surprisingly modest, and reservations are accepted. Tuesday, August 28, is an industry night. Chip Dudley

Martini Park
151 W. Erie | 312-640-0577

$$
BAR/LOUNGE, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

You must, of course, drink martinis at Martini Park, enjoy live music played at a reasonable volume, try not to stare overly long at battalions of the blond and beautiful, and nibble finger food that's way better than average bar chow. We sipped several well-crafted beverages: a martini of pomegranate vodka, juice, and liqueur and one of Skyy melon, cucumber essence, and fresh lime, both balanced and food friendly. Small plates are engineered for sharing. We enjoyed salmon poppers ($16), eight fish balls impaled on tiny forks, stuffed with cream cheese, and topped with creme fraiche and fish roe. We also wolfed down three Kobe beef sliders ($13), juicy patties with tomato on pleasingly dense brioche. Designed as a "playground for grown-ups," this well-dressed room attracts a crowd 30 and over, and you will be turned away if you show up in flip-flops. Service is exceptionally well mannered: folks at the front door, reception desk, and all three bars are genuinely courteous and amiable, radiating a vibe that suggests you really should loosen up and have fun. Go weekdays to eat and drink peacefully; go weekends if you like big rollicking cocktail parties. David Hammond

Ol Lounge
2812 N. Lincoln | 773-388-3500

$
TAPAS/SPANISH, BAR/LOUNGE | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11:30

A suave tapas restaurant housed in a former church, Ol Lounge gets things off to a great start, with mojitos, sangria, and a leggy, scantily clad server who beckoned us to settle in at an inviting table near the bar. But once the food began to arrive our faith was tested somewhat. One highlight, to be fair, was a cheese plate with manchego, tetilla, and cabrales, and a sweet fig cake made the perfect ending to the meal. The place was humming on a Friday night, and amid all the beautiful people and the tinkle of happy talk one can detect some possibilities for salvation. Live flamenco the last Thursday of every month. Chip Dudley

Plan B Bar & Kitchen
1635 N. Milwaukee | 773-252-2680

$
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN, BURGERS | DINNER: SUNDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY, TUESDAY | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 2:30; WEDNESDAY-FRIDAY, SUNDAY TILL 1:30 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

If the people behind Plan B were trying to create the type of place that's a decent second choice if your favorite bar is too crowded but never a primary destination, they succeeded. If not, the name seems to have been a self-fulfilling prophecy: on a recent visit pretty much everything was fine but uninspiring. Service was mediocre, even though the waitstaff outnumbered us when we arrived, and the food and drinks weren't much better. The menu is mostly bar fare like fried mozzarella and burgers -- the crispy Parmesan-and-garlic waffle fries were one of the few things I'd go back for -- but also features fondue and a Mediterranean platter with hummus and feta cheese. Spanish olives that were supposed to be stuffed with manchego didn't appear to actually have any cheese in them and were so salty we could only eat a few. Drinks are creatively named, but the too sweet Ciroc Obama (Ciroc vodka, Chambord, and lemonade with a grape sugar rim) made me wish the staff had spent more time developing the drink and less naming it -- go for the simple but tasty mojitos instead. Black leather couches and hardwood floors give the place an upscale feel that's tempered by wide-screen TVs behind the bar, while a stripper pole adds that special bordello touch. No one seemed particularly inclined to try out the pole while I was there, but if the dancing bartender on Plan B's Flash-animated Web site ever showed up in person it would probably get some use. Julia Thiel

La Pomme Rouge
108 W. Kinzie | 312-245-9555

$$$
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/ REGIONAL, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: MONDAY-THURSDAY, SATURDAY | CLOSED FRIDAY, SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-THURSDAY, SATURDAY TILL 12:45

Success could spoil La Pomme Rouge. Fill it with noisy crowds and no one will fully appreciate the luxurious fabrics, gilt mirrors, Victorian ceiling fixtures, and art nouveau artwork. Worse yet, executive chef Jeffrey Mauro's sophisticated creations will become mere props for the beverages: pricey champagnes, martinis with French twists, classic cocktails. But when I took a bite out of the apple earlier this summer, I found it surprisingly polished. A caviar napoleon, at $10 the poor person's alternative to osetra or sevruga service ($300 and $200 respectively), was a cute if salty conceit: two mini English muffins mounded with scrambled eggs, crispy pancetta, and American sturgeon caviar, crowned by potato-bacon foam. Silken foie gras torchon surpassed most pâtés and, being contraband, perfectly fit the temptation theme. The menu doesn't distinguish between appetizers and entrees, so "roasted chicken breast" turned out to be a lovely little salad with watercress and apricots matched with a foie-filled tortellini, while the pan-seared rib eye with melted onions and fingerling potatoes made a deliciously rich meal. Simultaneously sweet and savory, the individual Roquefort-apple quiche works as a cheese course or dessert. I might skip the mousselike gianduia cremeux -- but only reluctantly. Fridays and Sundays are now reserved for private events. Anne Spiselman

Pops for Champagne
601 N. State | 312-266-7677

$$
BAR/LOUNGE, SMALL PLATES, SEAFOOD | LUNCH: FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL 1 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

I'm happy to report that in my long life I've now had a much stronger bash at what Dorothy Parker called "sufficient champagne," thanks to a stop at Pops for Champagne in the old Tree Studios. The extensive menu of more than 125 champagnes and sparkling wines is served in "real," French glasses -- they're shorter -- that make the champagne-drinking experience much more pleasurable. (I've never liked stiffly tipping my shoulders back to tuck a test tube under my nose while twiddling its flimsy stem between my fingers.) The glassy new downtown locale provides the giddy sense of being a champagne bubble yourself, floating in a glowing flute: glamorous low lighting warms every corner and is reflected over and over in the old curved windows, and there are cozy banquettes and squashy stools. Pops serves smart, salty little nibbles to encourage imbibing -- oysters and salami and cheese, plus more substantial selections -- and there's a jazz club in the basement ($10 cover Tuesday through Thursday, $15 Friday and Saturday). In a nutshell: lovely, fizzy fun. Elizabeth M. Tamny

Red Kiva
1108 W. Randolph | 312-226-5577

$$
BAR/LOUNGE, PIZZA | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, SUNDAY-FRIDAY TILL 2 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Red Kiva is just too damn likable for its own good. It wants to be an obnoxious lounge with burly list-wielding bouncers and music too loud to do anything but shriek over, but instead comes across as a nice friendly neighborhood bar, relaxed and relaxing. Service too is relaxed; be prepared to wait, especially if it's even a little busy. The menu is right to the point: a few mixed drinks including martinis and cosmos, a pretty good mojito, and excellent, not overly sweet concoctions like the Diablo Punch (Absolut Peach, pomegranate juice, and club soda). There's also a wide assortment of wines and champagnes by the bottle, but only a couple by the glass, none very distinguished, though there's old standby Veuve Clicquot, a nice prosecco, and 12 beers on tap. You can get any kind of food you want as long as what you want is pizza, made fresh in an Italian oven in the tiny kitchen. There's a margherita, two with prosciutto, and another with artichoke hearts. The patrons all seem to be coming from or leaving for other spots on West Randolph, but if you want a pleasant spot for a drink and a bite on restaurant row Red Kiva will do quite nicely. Floyd Elliot

Swirl Wine Bar
111 W. Hubbard | 312-828-9000

$$
GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC, SMALL PLATES, BAR/LOUNGE | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, TUESDAY-FRIDAY TILL 2 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Tucked in next to an adult bookstore, Swirl seems to be taking cues from its neighbor's business tactics, teasing with promises but rarely delivering satisfaction. The long, dim room is handsomely outfitted with low banquettes and sofas in tasteful neutrals; a small stage at the rear showcases Latin jazz Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Wines by the glass are extensive but hit-or-miss, and in one instance apparently scant hours from vinegar. The menu covers perhaps a dozen hot and cold global-fusion appetizers (think watermelon-tuna tartare and panko-crusted chipotle crab cakes) and a selection of "pizettes," little pizzas, but even something as simple as a dish of mixed olives fell short. As for the pizza -- topped with an intriguing blend of caramelized pears and onions, garlic aioli, and fontina and mozzarella -- there's not much to say, as by the time we signaled for the check it still hadn't materialized. Martha Bayne

The Tasting Room at Randolph Wine Cellars
1415 W. Randolph | 312-942-1313

$$
EUROPEAN, SMALL PLATES, BAR/LOUNGE | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-SATURDAY TILL 2

This sleek two-story bar is stocked with a large selection of spirits and more than 300 wines available by the bottle (about 100 by the glass). The contemporary space has exposed brick walls, natural-wood floors, high ceilings, and huge windows that showcase a dramatic skyline view. The cheese selection is remarkable and very reasonably priced. On your own or following the recommendations of the knowledgeable staff, you can pick from dozens of offerings such as fresh French chevre, mild Spanish iberico, and a sweet, nutty Italian piave. Or opt for a preassembled off-the-menu board that's amply garnished with fruits, nuts, and bread. The menu also includes flights of seafood and charcuterie, plus small plates like beef tenderloin skewers and a variety of thin-crust pizzas. Much of the seating area is outfitted with comfy couches, so you can relax for hours. Laura Levy Shatkin

Vice
840 W. Randolph | 312-733-3379

$$$$
BAR/LOUNGE, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, THURSDAY-FRIDAY TILL 2, SUNDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

The menu dubs Vice, Vivo's new next-door sibling, an "amuse bouche boutique," but since the small bites come in multiples designed for sharing, that's just a euphemism for small plates. Cases in point: five dainty wonton cups of piquant Asian tuna tartare and an "ahi aji quesadilla," a quartet of mini flour tortillas topped with peppers and tiny slices of seared tuna. That these cost $10 and $12 respectively, unlike the complimentary amuses in posh restaurants, may cause curmudgeons to cry "less for more," but that doesn't negate the virtues of chicken-liver mousse as rich as a foie gras terrine or a pair of plump two-ounce Kobe burgers on brioche buns with Camembert, pancetta, arugula, and tomato. Eating with Danish-modern baby silverware was sort of fun, and the spoon fit into the espresso cup of satiny mocha pot de creme. Not so fun: soggy seasonal tart tatin with one slice of overcooked white peach and the Vice Passion, a flute of flat prosecco and passion fruit puree. I don't know anyone who'd spring $355 for osetra caviar service and $605 for Dom Perignon ros here, but I might return for the $10 Kobe burgers (accompanied by crisp fries) and a $5 beer. DJs spin Thursday through Saturday. Anne Spiselman

Volo Restaurant Wine Bar
2008 W. Roscoe | 773-348-4600

F 7.5 | S 7.8 | A 7.1 | $$ (9 reports)

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, SMALL PLATES, BAR/LOUNGE | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY

Talented executive chef Stephen Dunne executes a constantly changing menu of small plates: sweet, plump mussels steamed in white wine and butter and flecked with parsley, steak tartare served with crunchy radish sprouts and shards of sesame flatbread. Seared scallops might come with American sturgeon caviar and leeks, a rabbit roulade with wilted spinach and corn puree. There's an artisanal cheese plate offered every night -- it changes frequently but might include French favorites like Epoisses, Valencay, and Sainte-Maure or domestic selections like Humboldt Fog and Point Reyes blue. Wine from an impressive global list comes by the glass, carafe flight, or bottle, and the outdoor dining area is pretty as a picture. Laura Levy Shatkin

Webster's Wine Bar
1480 W. Webster | 773-868-0608

$$
GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC, SMALL PLATES, BAR/LOUNGE | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 2

Across the street from the Webster Place movie theaters, this cozy wine bar offers an extensive variety of vintages from around the world. The dark room has comfortable couches in the front window. There's an upstairs room for crowded weekends or private parties, and, in the summer, a few tables on the sidewalk. The wine list is divided into bottle and by-the-glass pours that come in both five-ounce and two-ounce servings; the latter can be combined to create personalized tasting flights. The list is reasonably priced, with decent midrange options (like a $35 1997 Fritz merlot), but of course splurging is an option. By-the-glass prices range from $7 to $12. The wine-friendly food includes an antipasto plate, an albacore sandwich, an apple-and-Brie quesadilla, designer pizzas, mussels, and several cheese plates. Casual wine tastings and more structured wine classes are offered once or twice a month and range from $20 to $50. Laura Levy Shatkin

Send a letter to the editor.

From the Reader blogs

The Food Chain Julia Thiel: A hot-dog eating contest, Veggie Bingo, an all-you-can-eat clam bake, and more.
Wednesday at 4:30 pm