La Pomme Rouge, Roquefort-apple uiche, roasted chicken breast with foie gras tortellini, watercress, and apricots A. Jackson

July 27, 2007

La Pomme Rouge
108 W. Kinzie
312-245-9555

SUCCESS COULD SPOIL LA POMME ROUGE. Unlike Sugar, which once occupied the same signless space, Jerry Suqi and Jackson Miranda's vision of a belle epoque Parisian salon depends on a romantically decadent ambience rather than a high-energy buzz. Fill it with noisy crowds and no one will fully appreciate the luxurious fabrics, gilt mirrors, Victorian ceiling fixtures, and art nouveau artwork. Worse yet, executive chef Jeffrey Mauro's sophisticated creations will become mere props for the beverages: pricey champagnes, martinis with French twists, classic cocktails. La Pomme Rouge's grand opening was July 24, but late in the "soft opening" month before that, I eagerly took a bite out of the apple and found it surprisingly polished. A caviar napoleon, at $14 the poor person's alternative to osetra or sevruga service ($300 and $200, respectively), was a cute if salty conceit: three mini English muffins mounded with scrambled eggs, crispy pancetta, and American sturgeon caviar, crowned by potato-bacon foam. Silken foie gras torchon surpassed most patés and, being contraband, perfectly fit the temptation theme. The menu doesn't distinguish between appetizers and entrees, so "roasted chicken breast" turned out to be a lovely little salad with watercress and apricots matched with a foie-filled tortellini, while the pan-seared rib eye with melted onions and fingerling potatoes made a deliciously rich meal. Simultaneously sweet and savory, the individual Roquefort-apple quiche works as a cheese course or dessert. I might skip the mousselike gianduia cremeux -- but only reluctantly. La Pomme Rouge is closed most Friday nights for private parties. A caveat: if you actually want to read the menu, bring a flashlight. --Anne Spiselman

Chaise Lounge
1840 W. North
773-342-1840

AFTER MY VISIT to CHAISE LOUNGE I did some exploratory googling and was a little taken aback by all the negative reviews from disgruntled customers. Was it as satisfying as I remembered? Maybe I was there on a good night, but I enjoyed it. The menu, like the decor, has a retro feel that's most obvious in the list of specialty cocktails with names like the Deco and the Wingback, but the dishes hark backward as well, with French-inspired standards like duck confit and consomme receiving the inevitable contemporary twist. Billi-bi, a mussel bisque you don't see much these days, comes with a dab of anisette cream topped with orange gremolata; I couldn't taste much anise, but the bisque did have an unusual kick that added dimension to a soup that's often simply rich. My friend said her frisee with poached egg, caramelized shallots, and bacon was "like breakfast" in a good way, crispy bacon adding a sweet edge. Also sweet, even a little cloying, was the apple cider reduction with chestnuts and raisin relish that accompanied unexpectedly mild slices of roast venison. Our server fumbled a bit when asked whether a side of potato wedges with Parmesan and truffles contained slices of truffle; I'm thinking that for $6 it was probably truffle oil, which often, it's been revealed, contains no truffles at all. The standout of the evening was a special that seemed to show Chaise Lounge is best when it resists the urge to gild the lily: a juicy pork chop special with a Dijon sauce and cauliflower gratin, the plain-jane vegetable ranging in shades from cream to lavender and with an almost smoky flavor. --Heather Kenny

Vice
840 W. Randolph
312-733-3379

I HAD A minor late-evening epiphany at VICE, Vivo's new next-door sibling: lounges serving sophisticated nibbles are proliferating to circumvent the law. Unlike restaurants, they're not yet subject to the smoking ban, so they allow customers to dine out while indulging in their favorite, er, vice. Nonsmokers should opt for the sidewalk cafe despite its proximity to parked cars, because inside, the stylish room often smells of cigarettes, as well as pulsing with music. The menu dubs Vice an "amuse bouche boutique," but since the small bites come in multiples designed for sharing, that's just a euphemism for small plates. Cases in point: five dainty wonton cups of piquant Asian tuna tartare and an "ahi aji quesadilla," a quartet of mini flour tortillas topped with peppers and tiny slices of seared tuna. That these cost $10 and $12 respectively, unlike the complimentary amuses in posh restaurants, may cause curmudgeons to cry "less for more," but that doesn't negate the virtues of chicken-liver mousse as rich as a foie gras terrine, citrusy black grouper tiradito, and a pair of plump two-ounce Kobe burgers on brioche buns with Camembert, pancetta, arugula, and tomato. Eating with Danish-modern baby silverware was sort of fun, and the spoon fit into the espresso cup of satiny mocha pot de creme. Not so fun: soggy seasonal tart tatin with one slice of overcooked white peach and the Vice Passion, a flute of flat prosecco and passion fruit puree. I don't know anyone who'd spring $355 for osetra caviar service and $605 for Dom Perignon rosé here, but I might return for the $10 Kobe burgers (accompanied by crisp fries) and a $5 beer. --Anne Spiselman

Other recent openings
Between Boutique Cafe & Lounge 1324 N. Milwaukee | 773-292-0585
The Bluebird Bistro & Wine Bar 1749 N. Damen | 773-486-2473
CJ's Eatery 3839 W. Grand | 773-292-0990
English 444 N. LaSalle | 312-222-6200
Fat Cat 4840 N. Broadway | 773-506-3100
Il Fiasco 5101 N. Clark | 773-769-9700
Nazarlik 1650 W. Belmont | 773-327-5800
Otom 951 W. Fulton | 312-491-5804
Sepia 123 N. Jefferson | 312-441-1920
Shikago 190 S. LaSalle | 312-781-7300
Via Carducci la Sorella 1928 W. Division | 773-252-2246
The Violet Hour 1520 N. Damen | 773-252-1500

For more on restaurants, see our blog the Food Chain.

New Too

Eighteen more recent openings

Al Primo Canto
5414 W. Devon | 773-631-0100

$$$$
LATIN AMERICAN, ITALIAN | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: THURSDAY-SATURDAY TILL 11

Georges Elbekai, a former partner in Semiramis, spent two years developing this Brazilian galeteria specializing in galeto al primo canto, marinated young grilled chicken (the stunning stainless steel churrasco was imported from Brazil). The menu reflects Brazil's multiethnic composition, starting with rich, silky eggplant caponatto (baba ghanoush) served with warm Lebanese-style pita. For $29.95, an all-you-can-eat "endless feast" comes to the table, beginning with a delightfully crisp polenta frita topped with Parmigiano Reggiano and pasta with three sauces. Then comes the meat: crisp-skinned, flavorful chicken, tender grilled beef tenderloin, and luscious marinated lamb. Salads are nicely composed, and sides include cloud-light cheese puffs, seasonal vegetables, and crunchy double-cooked potatoes with an addictive Gorgonzola sauce. Under talented Brazilian-born chef Luciana Godoy desserts are a highlight as well: classic vanilla flan, warm guava cake with mascarpone sauce, and especially nutmeg-dusted acorn squash with cinnamon ice cream and caramel sauce. There are no sword-toting tarted-up gauchos to trouble you, and in all Al Primo Canto offers the churrascaria experience in a significantly more civilized manner than other spots for a lower price. The lively atmosphere, gracious service, and reasonably priced if not particularly deep wine list only add to the appeal of this welcome addition to Edgebrook and Chicago at large. Gary Wiviott

Amphora
7547 N. Clark | 773-262-5767

$$
MEDITERRANEAN, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-SATURDAY TILL 1

At Amphora you experience some cognitive dissonance: Greek vases hang high against the clubby dark wood of the former Gateway Bar & Grill, a television blares over the world music on the sound system, and the purportedly pan-Mediterranean menu includes Caesar salad and shrimp de Jonghe, a dish that originated in the exotic port city of Chicago. The food helps overcome these incongruities. Crispy flatbreads are pizzalike, with sunny ingredients like goat cheese, olives, and roasted garlic, and large enough to make a meal. Tabbouleh is fresh and sparingly seasoned, and salt cod cakes are clean tasting and delicately crisped, reflecting quality ingredients and a capable hand in the kitchen. Marinated lamb shank is big and meaty, but befitting the Mediterranean focus, there are many seafood dishes and enough vegetarian entrees -- including pasta, soups, and strata -- to satisfy those who don't eat things with eyes or mothers. The full bar has a good selection of wines, over half available by the glass and many in carafes (for a reasonable $16), and a small-plates menu is served till the wee hours. David Hammond

Bluprint
222 Merchandise Mart Plaza | 312-410-9800

$$$$
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 11

This new bar and restaurant inside the north lobby of the Merchandise Mart more than does aesthetic justice to its location: sleek and serene to the nth degree, it left me half expecting to find Mies van der Rohe nursing a drink there. Everything about the spot looks gorgeous. Cocktails, which revolve around a sort of mod space tiki theme, are superb, serious and well-crafted as well as fun. They include the Postmodern Blu: berry vodka, blueberry schnapps, and lime juice served in a glass with a blue-sugared rim. An accompanying lounge menu offers substantial nibbles, among them lust-worthy Parmesan-truffle fries with garlic aoli; other choices are a Waygu burger, gyro kebab, and baby octopus. Dinner needs some calibration though. A fine cut of aged sirloin with mushroom puree, rosemary potatoes, and roasted shallots was harmonious but alas was served bloody rare even though requested medium. Likewise, the yellowfin tuna looked beautiful on the plate accompanied by fingerling potatoes and escabeched veggies but was curiously underwhelming. There are a range of pastas, salads, and other entrees like Amish chicken and a boneless leg of lamb. But dessert comes out a winner, the chocolate "assembly" of brownie, bananas, and spiced cream in particular. Rob Christopher

Caoba
1619 N. Damen | 773-342-2622

$$
MEXICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: MONDAY-FRIDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL 2

Caoba slipped into the former Pacific Cafe space, with a barely audible shout-out (on the tortilla baskets) to the Mexican state of San Luis Potosi. Its specialty is tabletop parilladas, in this instance perforated molded metal boxes filled with burning hardwood charcoal, the vehicle for sizzling meats and vegetables. My first time I plowed into the seafood and meat versions with abandon, but quickly ran out of gas, wondering why I was exerting myself for such powerfully unspecial meat. The scallops, squid, and head-on langoustines all bore textural traces of freezer abuse compounded by overcooking, and the meats -- chicken, chorizo, skirt steak, and excessively glazed orangey baby back ribs -- suffered similarly. About the only thing redeeming these were the piles of juicy sweet peppers and onions roasted in the juices. A seviche appetizer of shredded tilapia settled to the bottom of a goblet of sweet citrusy tomato juice, and a coctel de camaron was chock-full of shrimp, though they were small and chewy. Nice house-fried tortillas chips with a tangy sweet salsa introduced a menu with another nod to the hometown in enchiladas potosinas. Despite it all, the flat-screen TVs and long fauxdobe walls that open onto the Wicker Park parade may be all the place needs to survive on this turf. Mike Sula

Chicago Ale House
2200 W. Lawrence | 773-275-2020

$$
AMERICAN, BURGERS, BARBECUE/RIBS | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT

If a high school business class had an imaginary budget to build an imaginary restaurant, they might come up with something like the Chicago Ale House in Lincoln Square. It has something for everyone! Do you have pot stickers? Yes! Chicken noodle soup? Yes! Salad caprese? Baby back ribs? "South of the border quesadillas"? You got it! The concept might work if the restaurant wasn't in, you know, Chicago: the only restaurants with "something for everyone" are inside malls in the great suburban nowhere where the competition is nothing for no one. Or if everything was done particularly well. But the pad thai tasted like it was from an ethnic MRE packet; hummus -- a mere mile from the half-dozen excellent versions on Kedzie -- was dry as dust. The Buffalo Trio of fried shrimp, wings, and "our famous chicken strips" -- in short, the sort of food Chicago Ale House should damn well get right -- was disappointingly bland, a waste of a deep fryer. Chicago Ale House's selling point is its beer, of course: there are 60-plus drafts. But it says everything you need to know that Miller, Budweiser, Old Style, PBR, and Coors, in their various permutations, take up a bewildering nine taps. Nicholas Day

Coalfire
1321 W. Grand | 312-226-2625

$$
PIZZA | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: THURSDAY-SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | BYO

Hotly anticipated since it was first announced, Coalfire -- Chicago's first east-coast-style coal-oven pizzeria -- opened to a flood of buzz and business, catching owners J. Spillane (a longtime bartender at the Matchbox) and Bill Carroll off guard. Was the frenzy warranted? It is, after all, just pizza. But as pizza goes, it's pretty great. The thin, blistered crust is sooty and crunchy on the outside and soft and chewy toward the center of the pan, with a dense, toasty flavor. The sauce, applied sparingly, is fresh and slightly sweet; toppings include buttery prosciutto, hot Calabrese salami with fennel, and terrific sweet and spicy varieties of sausage. The margherita, with ovals of melting mozzarella each topped by a sole basil leaf, was a bit bland, but the white pizza was tangy and complex, thanks to a last-minute substitution of goat cheese when the kitchen ran out of ricotta. And while in pizza, to each his own, I agreed with my friend who, four pies in, declared the simplest to be the best: sauce, cheese, one topping, perfection. Now if only someone would open a wine store next door. Martha Bayne

Cordis Brothers Supper Club
1625 W. Irving Park | 773-935-1000

$$$
AMERICAN, STEAKS/LOBSTER, ITALIAN | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE

Wise Fools Pub owners Mike and Dan Cordis set themselves an interesting challenge: update the meat-and-potatoes supper club and make it relevant. I'm not sure they've succeeded, but they have built a comfortable neighborhood joint, much like its predecessor Biasetti's, with a few modern touches. Despite the DJs and a rib eye cooked medium-rare perfect, however, I still kept looking around for my grandparents and the overcooked saddle leather they used to serve at the Wagon Wheel. Some dishes relied unsubtly on the flavors I associate with their generation: the soy mustard that dressed a seared tuna appetizer was slug-shrivelingly salty, and the lasagna Bolognese had so much sugar and spice it screamed for birthday candles. But big portions of meat, fish, and pasta were served by a waitstaff that's both friendly and on top of its game, and one of the brothers spent much of the evening chumming it up at the tables, doing his best to build a loyal, regular clientele. A late-night bar menu is available until midnight. Mike Sula

Cosmospolitan
954 N. California | 773-227-8888

$$$
MEDITERRANEAN | LUNCH, DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, MONDAY-FRIDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY | BYO

There's a particular kind of guilty pain when the kindest thing you can say about a restaurant is that the staff is really, really nice. But while the waitress at Cosmospolitan, a new, loosely Mediterranean spot next to a Humboldt Park muffler shop, tried her sweet best, the experience she purveyed was pretty lousy. The bargain-basement banquet hall decor, mismatched wine glasses, and loud 80s hits on the stereo struck all sorts of early wrong notes but we held out hope that some good food could spin it all into the realm of "eccentrically charming." But no. The tough Mediterranean chicken was coated in a slimy, lemonish, metallic sauce and the bland shrimp scampi, ringed around a giant island of baked tomato, floated on a thick, incongruous bed of cheese. The best entree of our lot was the shrimp diavolo, a simple pile of pasta, shrimp, and spice. Similarly, an appetizer of feta al forno made a satisfyingly oozy dip for warm bread -- but you have to try pretty hard to screw up a bowl of melted cheese, and the big problem with Cosmospolitan appears to be a serious lack of effort. Except for that waitress. Martha Bayne

Il Covo
2152 N. Damen | 773-862-5555

$$$$
ITALIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

"Italian men making Italian food" appears to be the motto of the revamped Il Covo: I heard it twice on the phone and once in person when I went to scope it out. But talking points aside, this bilevel Bucktown Italian spot is much improved from its earlier days as an uninspired purveyor of Australian-Italian fusion cuisine. The team offers a solid menu inspired by rustic Sardinian cooking, with seafood, roasted meats, and hearty ragus taking center stage. We started with an ample plate of lightly grilled vegetables -- zucchini, raddichio, endive, asparagus -- accompanied by a decadent smoked disk of melted scamorza and a serving of buttery carpaccio with arugula and shavings of mild pecorino Sardo. Bucatini amatriciana was a broad bowl of long, thick noodles dressed with a sauce of pancetta, onion, and tomato that was immensely satisfying, if ultimately oversalted thanks to the ample dose of bacon. Pollo alla Sarda, a pair of chicken paillards rolled around mozzarella and prosciutto, was equally rich (and again, kinda salty), but the flavors were well balanced. It's all still fairly pricey, and the dark decor remains the same for now, but co-owner Dominico Fronteddu says they plan to spiff it up soon, after his parents come over from Sardinia with a load of carpets and stuff. Martha Bayne

Crust
2056 W. Division | 773-235-5511

$$
PIZZA | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: THURSDAY-SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

With this casual new flatbread-pizza joint, the city's first certified organic restaurant, chef Michael Altenberg -- or more precisely, his design team -- seems bound and determined to rescue organic food from every hanging fern and wind chime that ever dogged its reputation. Formerly occupied by Settimana, the huge space has been transformed into a sleek modern dining hall with bright orange molded plastic chairs and trippy Formica tables; the spacious back patio and sidewalk cafe add seats for another 120. The pizza -- er, flatbreads -- have an airy, chewy, well-proofed crust and are topped with everything from savory silver dollars of pepperoni to a Greek mix of artichokes, olives, and feta to a take on an Alsatian Flammkuchen (caramelized onion, bacon, and caraway seeds with a bechamel sauce). All, meat included, tastes shockingly fresh; the baby greens in my Sun Salad (a tasty mix of greens and seaweed in a plum-miso dressing) had to have had their lives cut violently short that same day. The bar offers a short but respectable wine and beer list, plus a selection of cocktails with infused organic vodka. Martha Bayne

Delicioso y Sabroso
10468 S. Indianapolis | 773-374-6089

$$
MEXICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Delicioso y Sabroso is two, two, two restaurants in one. At Delicioso the focus is on the seven moles of Oaxaca; at more casual Sabroso the lineup is more about tacos and gorditas. On either side of the house you can get the coctel campechana -- shrimp and oysters in a satisfyingly balanced sweet-hot tomato sauce. There's a good range of seafood as well, perhaps reflecting the Guerrerense roots of Geno Bahena (Tepatulco, Ixcapuzalco), identified on his business card here as "Chief Mentor." He's been spotted in the house, and even if he isn't sweating over the skillets he's directing the action -- and it shows. We greatly enjoyed Delicioso's mole verde and the much rarer mole chichilo, with a fruity snap of chilcostle chile that enlivens even chicken breast. Borrego (mutton) in a dark sauce of chile cascabel and woodland mushrooms was well cooked and complex. There's an effort here to educate (regional origins are explained for many dishes) and intoxicate (passion fruit margaritas are popular), but it's hard not to be disappointed when stiff industrial-grade tortillas are served with $18 entrees. Still, if you've just been wiped out at one of the nearby casinos, Delicioso y Sabroso, in the shadows beneath the I-90 Skyway, might lift your spirits. David Hammond

Dib Sushi Bar and Thai Cuisine
1025 W. Lawrence | 773-561-0200

$$
ASIAN, THAI, JAPANESE | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | BYO

Neighborhood Thai-sushi restaurants are ubiquitous these days, but it's rare you'll find one as accomplished as this Uptown storefront. White floor-to-ceiling drapes hang in the large front windows that flood the room with light; the sushi bar is sleek and black -- as are the chopsticks. The smell of teriyaki lured us into starting with yakitori, smoky and moist; besides the usual starters (gyoza, gomae, crab Rangoon) there's soft shell crab and hamachi sashimi with jalapeno. From the long list of maki -- there are 37, including several vegetarian options -- we chose the Black and White roll: superwhite tuna with avocado, cilantro, and jalapeno and splashed with lime, the flavors all nicely distinct. A Volcano roll (smoked salmon, yellowtail, crab, and octopus with spicy mayo) sold me by actually being spicy for a change. The standard curries and Thai dishes are on offer, but we went with a "signature entree," chicken katsu and grilled eggplant in a rich green curry, which came bedecked with a frill of deep-fried vermicelli. There's a daily lunch special: appetizer, soup, and entree for between $6.50 and $7, and Dib is BYO for good. Kate Schmidt

Gloria's Cafe
3300 W. Fullerton | 773-342-1050

$$
LATIN AMERICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | BYO

Recently reopened under new ownership (with an actual Gloria at the helm) this bright little Colombian joint is putting out lovingly made home-style plates of meat or fish and starch, along with more casual coffeehouse-oriented bites and drinks (sandwiches, juices, smoothies). If that looks like they're spreading their supply lines thin, they're doing a helluva job in spite of it. My (admittedly limited) experience with arepas (corn cakes) had me believing they were dry, lifeless pucks best used as bludgeons or asphyxiates, but here the cheese and sweet corn (choclo) arepa appetizers both were moist and cakey -- a lesson a well learned. Empanadas with a mild chimichurri were swell, particularly the spinach, garlic, and potato variety, as was a "Colombian Hummus" with no identifiable South American traits. There's an unusual rice and shrimp ensalada with sweet plantains, chile flakes, and a sweet-and-sour sauce that wouldn't be out of place on a Thai menu. Rotisserie chickens are marinated, blazed well, and available in various sums of their parts. The traditional and steak dishes come with ample starchy and fibrous sides (rice, cassava, plantains, beans). I'm particularly partial to the bandeja paisa (country platter), a manly pile of sides, chiccharon, chorizo, grilled flank steak, and a fried egg. Mike Sula

Halsted's Bar & Grill
3441 N. Halsted | 773-348-9696

$$
AMERICAN, BURGERS, PIZZA | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Let's start with the onion rings, something Philip K. Dick might have invented as the perfect drug: each puffy hoop as big as a doughnut and studded with coarse salt, the Bass Ale batter and the onion itself nearly atomizing the moment you bite down. It's exactly what you might want with a night's worth of alcohol in your bloodstream, and sure enough, Halsted's Bar & Grill has begun to corner the market on Boys Town bar food. The former X/O has been transformed into something resembling Sidetrack, complete with overly loud music, a large see-and-be-seen patio in the back jammed with guys, and a video jukebox. If that's your scene, you'll love it. Burgers, sandwiches, and salads (in very hearty portions) are complemented by slightly adventurous variations on old favorites -- the meat loaf is a spicy chorizolike version. Service was attentive the night I went, but it's clear the kitchen is beginning to suffer from its own success -- it took upwards of 45 minutes for the entrees to appear -- and Raters are already complaining. Rob Christopher

Machu Picchu
3856 N. Ashland | 773-472-0471

$$
SOUTH AMERICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 1, MONDAY-THURSDAY TILL 11 | BYO

Machu Picchu is a work in progress. On my weeknight visit the dining room, decorated with a couple photo murals of Peru, was less than half full, and evidence of growing pains included disorganized service, discrepancies between menu descriptions and what came to the table, and an unannounced substitution on the Piqueo Machu Picchu Dos Personas, one of two four-dish samplers for $40. The extensive menu resembles Rinconcito Sudamericano's, and for a good reason: cooks Violeta Abad and Abraham Contreras worked there for years. Some of the standouts are the same too, including the anticuchos, spicy grilled beef hearts marinated in oil, vinegar, garlic, and peppers. Chupe de camarones, a creamy corn-and-pea-studded chowder, was stocked with jumbo shrimp and spiked with huacatay (black mint); sudado de mariscos, steamed shellfish and chewy squid in tomato sauce, was served with boiled potato but not the promised white rice. Arroz con pollo, cooked in Inca corn beer, featured green rice and bone-in chicken chunks nicely flavored by cilantro, which also brightened seco de carne, a beef stew with reasonably tender meat. Aji de gallina, finely shredded chicken in a blend of ground walnuts, milk, and cheese, was very mild despite the aji panca chiles listed in the description, and cau-cau, honeycomb tripe and cubed potatoes, was downright tame compared to fiery versions I've had laced with yellow chiles. Machu Picchu currently is BYO; a liquor license is in the works. Anne Spiselman

Republic Pan-Asian Restaurant & Lounge
58 E. Ontario | 312-440-1818

$$$
ASIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

The anxiety at River North's Republic pan-Asian Restaurant & Lounge is palpable, from the agitated waitstaff to the weird high-low menu featuring a $30 Kobe shoulder loin alongside workaday pad thai and curries. On a recent visit our waiter convinced us to try one of the ten or so sakes on the menu, then disappeared for 20 minutes. After returning with our wine, he apologized profusely, only to turn pale when a harried runner approached our table and said gravely, "Chef wants to see you." This happened twice during our meal, leaving us to wonder whether our waiter would be fired before dessert. Unfortunately, this was the least of our worries. The food took forever to arrive, and when it did, one of the appetizers was something we hadn't ordered (we were then brought the correct one). Flat-flavored tempura vegetables were unredeemed by the dipping sauce. The Kobe shoulder loin, however, was fabulous: cooked to a perfect medium rare, it almost justified the wait and the expense. Ultimately, though, the frenetic confusion of the half-empty restaurant was a turnoff. With so many people rushing around trying to do the right thing, we wondered why so much was wrong. Chip Dudley

Room 21
2100 S. Wabash | 312-328-1198

$$$
AMERICAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Jerry Kleiner (Red Light, Marché, Opera, etc) knows how to razzle-dazzle `em. Room 21, his latest project, follows his favorite scenario: reclaim a space with headline-grabbing potential and give it an over-the-top makeover as a destination restaurant. In this case, the backstory involves a Prohibition-era warehouse owned by Al Capone, Eliot Ness's first bust, and an escape passage ending in a door labeled "Room 21." Kleiner's chutzpah extends to $15 martinis and a $44 rib eye, but he's also savvy enough to offer a $10 burger and a better-than-decent bottle of Penfolds Shiraz for $18. As for the food, my meal was mixed. Mildly seasoned tuna tartare let the flavor of the silky cubed fish shine, but crab cakes tasted mostly of rice. Entrees arrived lukewarm, but the steak Diane (no longer on the menu, unfortunately) was perfectly cooked and served with a mountain of crisp salted fries. Long waits between courses and food runners who wandered the room looking for the right tables were among the signs that the service needs work. Anne Spiselman

South Coast
1700 S. Michigan | 312-662-1700

$$$
ASIAN, JAPANESE | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-SATURDAY TILL 11 | BYO

Teeming with attractive South Loopers, South Coast's sleek space is outfitted with chandeliers resembling the tentacles of aquatic creatures, swaying to club music cranked to 11. As with Coast, its north-side sibling, the focus here is on stylish "new Japanese" cuisine. Thankfully, our waiter gave us the heads-up on more staid sushi specials -- fatty salmon, hamachi, and uni ($4 per) -- each spanking fresh and bright; we seriously grooved on the geoduck, a northwestern clam rare in Chicago, sea tasty and well-textured. With our chirashi ($24), though the fish was expertly cut and artfully arranged, too many bites of this traditional sashimi on vinegar rice were limp and watery; "angry salmon," however, was bursting with mouth-filling omega threes, the fleshy fish holding firm against chile-piquant "dynamite sauce." There's a lot of seafood here dressed with zesty jalapeno, mango, and even corn, rolled in a wide range of attractive maki, tempura fried and drizzled with sauce. Bring wine or beer to sweeten your bill significantly; for a $5 corkage, expect fresh glasses with every new bottle (even if you're just drinking beer) and servers who uncork and pour your beverage, which should be (but isn't) SOP for all BYOBs. David Hammond

Trattoria Trullo
4767 N. Lincoln | 773-506-0093

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EUROPEAN, ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Giovanni de Nigris moved his Evanston trattoria into the abandoned kiddie-playground G.P. Franklin's but continues to specialize in the food of Puglia, which like other southern Italian regions is associated with cucina povera, the food of the poor. In these fat times the simple culinary ingenuity of the peasant class is celebrated rather than scorned. But since Lincoln Square doesn't enjoy Puglia's proximity to seawater, all that can be hoped for is similar miracle making with the many seafood dishes, including plenty of shelled and tentacled antipasti; seafood pastas, salad, and risotto; and halibut, salmon, and scampi. Grilled mixed seafood over white beans and rapini in a slightly peppery oil might have been an auspicious start if it had spent any recent quality time with a heat source. (In fact, this was a recurring problem with nearly everything ordered on a busy Thursday night.) Sticking to the Pugliese specialties, denoted helpfully on the menu, spinach-and-breadcrumb-stuffed eggplant in red sauce was dull and mushy, but pasta courses showed more promise, like the ur-Pugliese orecchiette with rapini (which could've used more chile) and ziti with white bean puree. Secondi were good enough but overshadowed by their accompaniments -- a competently cooked halibut fillet was perched on a terrific, slightly tomatoey carnaroli risotto and a cheese-blanketed veal scallopini couldn't stand up to the simple, perfectly cooked summer vegetables on the side. The wine list is heavy on Pugliese reds, and there's a deli case and retail operation in the front of the house that stocks cheeses, olives, pastas, and oils for takeaway. Mike Sula

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