Steak Diane at Room 21 A. Jackson

June 15, 2007

Room 21
2110 S. Wabash
312-328-1198

Jerry Kleiner (Red Light, Marché, Opera, etc) knows how to razzle-dazzle 'em. ROOM 21, his latest project, follows his favorite scenario: reclaim a space with headline-grabbing potential and give it an over-the-top makeover as a destination restaurant in a soon-to-be-hot neighborhood. In this case, the backstory -- printed on the menu -- involves a Prohibition-era warehouse owned by Al Capone, Eliot Ness's first bust, and an escape passage ending in a door labeled "Room 21." The renovation channels an old Chicago bordello: velvet drapes, alligator-pattern banquettes, clusters of hanging lamp shades, huge potted palms, and an eye-popping color scheme of pinks, greens, reds, and black and white. (There's also a lovely walled garden that's less noisy than the earsplitting dining room.) Kleiner's chutzpah extends to $15 martinis and a $44 rib eye, but he's also savvy enough to offer a $12 burger and a better-than-decent bottle of Penfolds shiraz for $18. The generally pricey wine list, with bottles up to $650, gets high marks for its user-friendly organization. As for the food, my meal was mixed. Mildly seasoned tuna tartare let the flavor of the silky cubed fish shine, but crab risotto cakes, highly recommended by our server as "made with lump and backfin crab," tasted mostly of rice. Entrees arrived lukewarm, but the steak Diane -- at $19, the least expensive steak -- was perfectly cooked (rare as ordered), coated with subtle cognac sauce, and served with a mountain of crisp salted fries. I found the roasted halibut fillet rather dry but liked the sweet corn puree, mushrooms, and crisp sugar snap peas that came beneath it. Of the three desserts, chocolate-filled beignets with chocolate mousse outclassed a sludgy apple-blueberry crisp. Long waits between courses and food runners who wandered the room looking for the right tables were among the signs that the service needs work. This week word came of executive chef Aaron Whitcomb's departure; a replacement is in the works. --Anne Spiselman

Cordis Brothers Supper Club
1625 W. Irving Park
773-935-1000

Wise Fools Pub owners Mike and Dan Cordis set themselves an interesting challenge: update the meat-and-potatoes supper club -- a concept practically synonymous with "stale" -- and make it relevant. I'm not sure they've succeeded, but with CORDIS BROTHERS SUPPER CLUB they have built a comfortable neighborhood joint, much like its predecessor Biasetti's, with a few modern touches (no self-respecting old-guard relish tray would be caught dead wearing hummus and sun-dried tomato butter). Despite the DJs -- on laptops, not decks -- and a rib eye cooked medium-rare perfect, however, I still kept looking around for my grandparents and the overcooked saddle leather they used to serve at the Wagon Wheel. Some dishes relied unsubtly on the flavors I associate with their generation: the soy mustard that dressed a seared tuna appetizer was slug-shrivelingly salty, and the lasagna Bolognese had so much sugar and spice it screamed for birthday candles. But big portions of meat, fish, and pasta were served by a waitstaff that's both friendly and on top of its game. One of the brothers spent much of the evening chumming it up at the tables, doing his best to build a loyal, regular clientele, which is exactly what this place will need to make it. --Mike Sula

Crust
2056 W. Division
773-235-5511

WITH CRUST, HIS casual new flatbread-pizza place -- the city's first certified organic restaurant -- chef Michael Altenberg (or more precisely, his design team) seems bound and determined to rescue organic food from every hanging fern and wind chime that ever dogged its reputation. Formerly occupied by Settimana, the huge space has been transformed into a sleek modern dining hall with bright orange molded plastic chairs and trippy formica tables; the spacious back patio and sidewalk cafe add seats for another 120. The pizza -- er, flatbreads -- have an airy, chewy, well-proofed crust and are topped with everything from savory silver dollars of pepperoni to a Greek mix of artichokes, olives, and feta to a take on an Alsatian Flammkuchen (caramelized onion, bacon, and caraway seeds with a bechamel sauce). All, meat included, tastes shockingly fresh; the baby greens in my Sun Salad (a tasty mix of greens and seaweed in a plum-miso dressing) had to have had their lives cut violently short that very day. The bar offers a brief but respectable wine and beer list, plus a selection of cocktails with infused organic vodka. --Martha Bayne

Other recent openings
Caoba | 1619 N. Damen | 773-342-2622
Cosmospolitan | 954 N. California | 773-227-8888
Machu Picchu | 3865 N. Ashland | 773-472-0471
Orange on Roscoe | 2011 W. Roscoe | 773-248-0999
South Coast | 1700 S. Michigan | 312-662-1700
V.I.C.E. | 840 W. Randolph | 312-733-3374

For more on restaurants, see our blog the Food Chain.

New Too

Twenty more recent openings

Alhambra Palace
1240 W. Randolph | 312-666-9555

$$$
MIDDLE EASTERN, MOROCCAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL 11

Alhambra Palace's daunting scale -- 24,000 square feet seating up to 1,400 -- and Oriental Institute-meets-Vegas decor set tongues wagging early. Then its star chef, Eric Aubriot, left just weeks into the venture. Now his replacement, Daniel Wright, former executive chef at Souk, is trying to develop a menu with a "wow" factor to rival the setting -- a tall order given the restaurant's elaborate mosaics, tile work, and waterfalls. In addition to hummus, baba ghanoush, dolmas, and other standard appetizers, there are specialties such as lebna, thick, garlic-infused yogurt; zaalouck, a spicy eggplant and tomato dip; grilled shrimp chermoula, marinated in a paste of cilantro, red chile, cumin, and garlic; and Tunisian brik, fried square pastries stuffed with tuna and egg seasoned with saffron and lemon. Papillote of tilapia comes on a "Moroccan-friendly" bed of vegetables seasoned with ras el hanout, a complex spice blend; lamb shank tagine with couscous and savory braised Swiss chard. Belly dancers entertain on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Anne Spiselman

Amphora
7547 N. Clark | 773-262-5767

$$
MEDITERRANEAN, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-SATURDAY TILL 1, SUNDAY TILL MIDNIGHT

At Amphora you experience some cognitive dissonance: Greek vases hang high against the clubby dark wood of the former Gateway Bar & Grill, a television blares over the world music on the sound system, and the purportedly pan-Mediterranean menu includes Caesar salad and shrimp de Jonghe, a dish that originated in the exotic port city of Chicago. The food helps overcome these incongruities. Pizzalike flatbreads with sunny ingredients like goat cheese, olives, and roasted garlic are large enough to make a meal. Tabbouleh is fresh and sparingly seasoned, and salt cod cakes are clean tasting and delicately crisped, reflecting quality ingredients and a capable hand in the kitchen. Marinated lamb shank is big and meaty, but befitting the Mediterranean focus, there are many seafood dishes and enough vegetarian entrees -- including pasta, soups, and strata -- to satisfy those who don't eat things with eyes or mothers. The full bar has a good selection of wines, over half avail-able by the glass and many in carafes (for a reasonable $16), and a small-plates menu is served till the wee hours. David Hammond

Anteprima
5316 N. Clark | 773-506-9990

$$$
ITALIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Owner Marty Fosse ran the front of the house at Spiaggia at one time, and while his rustic new Andersonville restaurant Anteprima is a far cry from that rarefied temple of la cucina italiana, it shows promise as a neighborhood standby. A dozen or so antipasti lead the menu, a few of them very inexpensive and a few rather special, including soft veal meatballs in a sweet saffron-tomato sauce and a salumi plate that features a fragrant finocchiona cured by Mario Batali's papa in Seattle. My table's orders of strozzapreti ("priest stranglers") with pancetta and cherry tomatoes, orecchiette with lamb sausage and dandelion greens, and tagliatelle with duck ragu, arrived merely warm and a little gummy. But navigating restaurant pasta options is always treacherous, and because an order of spaghetti with fava beans placed later in the night was damn near perfect, I'm willing to bet the kitchen is capable of getting it right -- perhaps just not when the house is slammed at eight o'clock on a Friday night. Main dishes include a brick-grilled Cornish hen with rapini -- there are bitter greens all over the menu, in fact -- baby lamb chops, and wood-grilled whole fish specials. There's a long, all-Italian wine list with plenty of quartino options and a decent selection of grappa and other digestives. Mike Sula

Azucar
2647 N. Kedzie | 773-486-6464

$$
TAPAS/SPANISH, MEDITERRANEAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY, TUESDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 2, SUNDAY, WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Every dish on the tapas menu at Azucar sounded good, so among the four of us we ordered nearly all 20 or so, along with a bottle of wine from the reasonably priced all-Spanish list at this new Logan Square spot. Opting to skip basics like grilled garlic shrimp and goat cheese baked in tomato sauce, we started with an arugula and baby spinach salad with fennel, orange, and cherry tomato and two wedges of manchego served with almonds and fig jelly. Standouts as the evening progressed included beef empanadas on a fire-roasted pepper puree and albondigas -- meatballs in a spicy-sweet piquillo pepper sauce with garlic jam -- we ordered seconds of both. A lamb dish, comprising four juicy chops, was redolent of vanilla, and a cheese-stuffed red pepper atop a chickpea puree was especially tasty. Our server spread clean napkins over our messy tablecloth before bringing dessert: a chocolate terrine with salted almonds, which reminded me of a dense Italian torta, and a cinnamon-laden creme Catalan. Kathie Bergquist

Baccala
1540 N. Milwaukee | 773-227-1400

$$
ITALIAN | DINNER: WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY-TUESDAY

John Bubala's Italian awakening continues with this recasting of Thyme Cafe as Baccala, a Piedmont-influenced trattoria. Bubala is known for his rigorous sourcing of local ingredients, here manifested in a short menu of simple, deeply satisfying dishes prepared along northern Italian models. That means meats cooked low and slow, a liberal use of butter and a conservative use of olive oil, and more polenta and risotto than pasta. Pork predominates: whether shank, butt, or luscious belly, the high-fat cuts are fully flavored and luxuriantly tender. Same goes for the dino-size beef short ribs and a curveball -- lamb tongue in red wine sauce, its heavy richness brightened by grilled fennel, grain mustard, and dried tomatoes. Baccala, the restaurant's namesake puree of reconstituted salted cod and milk -- otherwise known as brandade -- comes with chunks of scallop and potato; squid is stuffed with sweet sausage in a rich mascarpone sauce. Pastas are represented by three stuffed varieties, including porcini tortellini in a broth dancing with tiny dice of lardo, a cured lard overlooked here but treasured in Italy. Tables are supplied with plenty of grissini, the long bread sticks that originated in Piedmont, but that's one gesture toward regionalism I'd rather see sacrificed to a bread basket -- a lot of delicious sauce leaves the table unsopped. Mike Sula

Blu Coral
1265 N. Milwaukee | 773-252-2020

$$$$
JAPANESE | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 11

Sushi in Japan is traditionally somewhat simple, but in the U.S. it can sometimes be overengineered for fashionable effect, and this suburban-based chain is proof that it's a growing trend: Dragon Fire is a roll packed with soft-shell crab, asparagus, and tobiko, teased with chile sauce, and flambeed in Bacardi; my partner thought it would be fun, and it was, but it wasn't so tasty. A heavy, chewy spring roll of filet mignon was an unconventional concoction that confirmed the value of convention. Much better were the lobster roll wrapped in eel and the yellowtail wrapped in cod rather than nori, both innovations in the service of good flavor. We had some delicious fatty tuna (at ten bucks a pop it'd better be good), but the mackerel, salmon, and tuna sashimi on an omakase (chef's choice) platter was disappointingly mushy. Still, the space is sleek, with metallic curves and sexy ambient lighting, and the servers are friendly; the swank bar may be the perfect place to sample a saketini. Watch out for the two-stage cocktail glass that rests inside a globe filled with ice, though; it's a cool concept, but it drips. David Hammond

Bombay Kabab House
1901 Howard, Evanston | 847-475-4553

$$
INDIAN/PAKISTANI | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

This new Indian restaurant opened in May. We had the lunch buffet, which was modest in the number of entrees but had all the bases covered: veggies, chicken, fish. Goat was available for the adventurous. All the foods were labeled, and the chef was around to say hello. The waitress and hostess were tremendous, making suggestions and asking how things were. We were even asked if we liked lamb, and told that it would be on the buffet in the next week. The gajar ka halwa was sweet and tender, aloo gobi slightly spicy and very pleasant. The chicken makhmi was awesome. Parking is great, and much attention is paid to details. Don't miss this one! Pauline Dembicki, Rater

Coalfire
1321 W. Grand | 312-226-2625

$$
PIZZA | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | BYO

Hotly anticipated since it was first announced, Coalfire -- Chicago's first east-coast-style coal-oven pizzeria -- opened to a flood of buzz and business, catching owners J. Spillane (a longtime bartender at the Matchbox) and Bill Carroll off guard. But they've added more staff and tried to smooth out some of the opening-week kinks, and things now appear to be running smoothly. Was the frenzy warranted? It is, after all, just pizza (almost literally -- besides the pies, the menu offers calzones, a few salads, and a selection of soft drinks; anything stronger is BYO for now). But as pizza goes, it's pretty great. The thin, blistered crust is sooty and crunchy on the outside and soft and chewy toward the center of the pan, with a dense, toasty flavor. The sauce, applied sparingly, is fresh and slightly sweet; toppings include buttery prosciutto, hot Calabrese salami with fennel, and terrific sweet and spicy varieties of sausage from nearby Bari Foods. The margherita, with ovals of melting mozzarella each topped by a sole basil leaf, was a bit bland, but the white pizza was tangy and complex, thanks to a last-minute substitution of goat cheese when the kitchen ran out of ricotta. And while in pizza, to each his own, I agreed with my friend who, four pies in, declared the simplest to be the best: sauce, cheese, one topping, perfection. Now if only someone would open a wine store next door. Martha Bayne

Cotes du Rhone Bistro
5424 N. Broadway | 773-293-2683

$$$
FRENCH | DINNER: SUNDAY, MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED TUESDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11:30 | BYO

Dinner at Cotes du Rhone, the new Edgewater bistro from former Cafe Bernard chef Brian Moulton, shot out of the gate with a trio of smartly executed classic French starters: piping hot, garlicky escargots; a complex, satiny duck liver pat; and plump mussels in an addictive garlic-white wine broth that should give the mollusks over at the Hopleaf a run for their money. Given the strong start it was surprising that things flagged at the entrees. The menu includes bistro standards like cassoulet, duck confit, and a nice, juicy roast chicken, but three of my group of four opted for specials. And while the beef tenderloin in green peppercorn sauce was tender, rare perfection, the veal flank smothered in black truffle mushrooms was overcooked (though the mushrooms were pretty tasty) and my rabbit loin stuffed with goat cheese and red peppers was a rich, complicated mess. Still, Cotes du Rhone is undeniably a nice addition to the miscellany of this strip of Broadway. The two candlelit rooms are quiet and almost gothy, the service was friendly if scattered, and it's BYOB for the time being. Martha Bayne

Fajita Grill
1706 W. Foster | 773-784-7455

$$
MEXICAN | LUNCH: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | BYO

Somewhere between the superb if gritty taquerias of Pilsen and Little Village and ambitious high-end Mexican restaurants you'll find spots like Fajita Grill, a decent, friendly place that may not immediately wow you but shows promise. The chips laid out before dinner were (disturbingly) Tostitos, but the tender tortillas that came with entrees were freshly made, and you can get guacamole mashed tableside, if you're into that kind of thing. Our tamales were moist and capable, pork ribs came dressed with a slightly bitter chocolate-based mole that blended well with the fall-off-the-bone meat (again, good, if you like that kind of thing), and a subtle, dense pipian salsa verde complemented the trout. But steak fajitas were served on a griddle so sizzling that meat, onions, and potatoes all burned right before our eyes -- this dish in particular is one the chefs should get right! There are also vegetarian fajitas and a decent range of salads, so even the meat averse should be able to dine in comfort, and Fajita Grill is permanently BYOB. David Hammond

The Gage
24 S. Michigan | 312-372-4243

$$$
ENGLISH/IRISH/SCOTTISH | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 11

Across the street from Millennium Park, the Gage draws swarms of tourists and suits alike, and the restored tin ceiling only amplifies the din. But if you can tolerate the noise, you'll find some superb dishes. The extensive drinks list features specialty and vintage cocktails like the Champagne Charlie (champagne and Grand Marnier with a bitters-soaked sugar cube). The one-page menu has surprising breadth without seeming scattershot: there are half a dozen steaks and burgers alongside more unusual offerings like roast saddle of elk, sea bream with oxtail, and caramelized lobster with lemon quinoa. An expertly charred hanger steak had plenty of smoky, juicy flavor, and the accompanying goat cheese grits and cabernet-Stilton butter were heavenly. Don't skip the brussels sprouts with bacon and Brie, available a la carte along with several other sides. But do save room for dessert: offerings like the "deconstructed" apple pie (thin pastry served upright in a pint glass with apple ice cream on the side) and chocolate peanut butter cake make a perfect finish. Rob Christopher

Hop Haus
646 N. Franklin | 312-467-4287

$$
AMERICAN, BURGERS | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL 3 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Brewpub meets sports bar in this new concept restaurant from the owners of Leona's -- and the sports bar wins. Televisions cling to every spot with a sight line in this cavernous River North space, the walls are decorated with photos of mildly risque sports bloopers, and copies of Best Chicago Sports Arguments share table space with the salt and pepper. The burger menu -- dreamed up by a couple folks from Alinea -- includes "global" takes on the basic steak burger and exotica like kangaroo and ostrich. The German burger was pretty good: topped with rich butterkase, sauerkraut, and robust brown mustard. But the wild boar was a disappointment, the meat tough, greasy, and well past medium rare. Both come on weirdly puffy egg buns that can't bear the weight of their contents and are accompanied by deadly kettle fries. The beer list is excellent, with close to 40 imports and craft brews bottled or on tap and suggested beer-and-burger pairings helpfully provided, though we went off menu with some refreshing Reissdorf Kolsch. With the kitchen open till after 3 AM I suppose you could do a lot worse for late-night sustenance -- especially if you're looking to catch the SportsCenter recap. Martha Bayne

Olé Lounge
2812 N. Lincoln | 773-388-3500

$
TAPAS/SPANISH | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 11:30

A suave tapas restaurant housed in a former church, Olé Lounge gets things off to a great start, with mojitos, sangria, and a leggy, scantily clad server who beckoned us to settle in at an inviting table near the bar. But once the food began to arrive our faith was tested. One highlight, to be fair, was a cheese plate with manchego, tetilla, and cabrales, and a sweet fig cake made the perfect ending to the meal. Food be damned, though: the place was humming on a Friday night, and amid all the beautiful people and the tinkle of happy talk one can detect some possibilities for salvation. Chip Dudley

Republic Pan-Asian Restaurant & Lounge
58 E. Ontario | 312-440-1818

$$$
ASIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

The anxiety at River North's Republic pan-Asian Restaurant & Lounge is palpable, from the agitated waitstaff to the weird high-low menu featuring a $30 Kobe shoulder loin alongside workaday pad thai and curries. On a recent visit our waiter convinced us to try one of the 12 or so sakes on the menu, then disappeared for 20 minutes. After returning with our wine, he apologized profusely, only to turn pale when a harried runner approached our table and said gravely, "Chef wants to see you." This happened twice during our meal, leaving us to wonder whether our waiter would be fired before dessert. Unfortunately, this was the least of our worries. The food took forever to arrive, and when it did, one of the appetizers was something we hadn't ordered (we were then brought the correct one). Our lobster-topped maki was weirdly chewy and tasted nothing like lobster; flat-flavored tempura vegetables were unredeemed by the dipping sauce. The Kobe shoulder loin, however, was fabulous: cooked to a perfect medium rare, it almost justified the wait and the expense. Ultimately, though, the frenetic confusion of the half-empty restaurant was a turnoff. With so many people rushing around trying to do the right thing, we wondered why so much was wrong. Chip Dudley

Sheffield's
3258 N. Sheffield | 773-281-4989

$$
AMERICAN, BARBECUE/RIBS | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

The sunny beer garden at this Wrigleyville tavern has always been a draw, but now there's another reason to go to Sheffield's: barbecue. Owner Ric Hess spent months perfecting three house-made sauces (Memphis, Texas, and North Carolina style), and since mid-April he's had his wood-burning Southern Pride smokers cranking. For reasons I will never understand, there aren't many places where you can get a decent pulled pork sandwich in Chicago, but even in the early going the one here was more than respectable, served with properly tangy coleslaw and a properly vinegary (and very tasty) mustard-based sauce. Sides including red-skin potato salad, corn bread, and collards with bacon showed the care being taken in the kitchen, as did a rich clam chowder packed with bacon, potatoes, and mushrooms. The menu has lots of tasty-sounding options -- a chile verde with pulled pork, gumbo and a shrimp po'boy -- but next up for me, it's the brisket and baby backs, sauce on the side. There are tons of craft brews on tap and by the bottle, and the staff is chipper and superfriendly. Kate Schmidt

Sura
3124 N. Broadway | 773-248-7872

$$
ASIAN, THAI, SMALL PLATES | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 1, OTHER NIGHTS TILL MIDNIGHT | BYO

The interior of Sura, a reasonably priced "Thai tapas" restaurant and lounge, is like a cross between Disney's Tomorrowland and an Apple computer commercial. Up front is a sleek chill-out space with beanbags and hanging birdcage chairs; farther back is the softly lit seating area with a DJ booth. The bulk of the menu consists of about three dozen small plates, so no one can accuse the kitchen of aiming low, but I'd prefer fewer but more consistent choices. Scallop seviche with spring onion and mint cream had a nice balance of sweet and savory but the scallops themselves were slightly chewy, and the stacked Caesar salad was drowning in sharp, overbearing dressing. The best dishes were the most traditional: sesame chicken had a scrumptious sauce that made me wish it was served with noodles, and the entree-size pineapple pork chop, pounded thin and ever so slightly charred, had a slow-burning spicy heat. Desserts include deep-fried bananas with ice cream and coppa Catalana, a very sweet vanilla custard with a caramelized top. Currently the place is BYO, but since Sura means "drink" in Thai, you can be sure there are cocktails waiting in the wings; a liquor license is pending. Rob Christopher

Ta Tong
2964 N. Lincoln | 773-348-6500

$
ASIAN, THAI, JAPANESE | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | BYO

Both Thai and Japanese cuisine are on offer at this small new BYO joint. Crab Rangoon was hot, crisp outside, and creamy inside -- it just didn't taste much like, you know, crab. "Golden silk shrimp," shrimp wrapped in thin, deep-fried strings of egg noodles, were similarly flavorless. A house special, the citrus chicken, was much tastier: marinated, crisply fried chicken served with a creamy lime sauce and a curiously crunchy side of collard greens. All the sushi standards are available, including some nice offerings like the "for beginner" platter with ebi, tamago, California, and kani maki. Service was a little hit-and-miss, but still friendly, and the space itself is inviting enough, with a small counter where you can watch sushi being made while you eat. Anne Ford

Vella Cafe
1912 N. Western | 773-489-7777

$
AMERICAN, BREAKFAST | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-FRIDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | CLOSED TUESDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | BYO

For the past few years Sara Voden and Melissa Yen of Vella Cafe have been selling what may be the finest sandwiches in Chicago -- among them a killer brisket panini and a French toast a la bread pudding -- from a small stand at the Green City Market. Their new breakfast-and-lunch storefront, tucked neatly beneath the Blue Line stop at Western, brings the operation indoors. The excellent paninis remain, including a frittata version that's among the best egg sandwiches ever invented, but the menu now includes crepes, soups and salads, and a brunch that's more affordable than its Wicker Park competition and hair-of-the-dog-friendly to boot (drinks include a virgin Bloody Mary). The high-ceilinged space was renovated with the help of family and friends; warm and cheery as a sunny-side up egg, it already feels well loved. Nicholas Day

Viet Bistro
1334 W. Devon | 773-465-5720

$$$
ASIAN, VIETNAMESE | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

For years Pasteur was a favorite for classy, upscale Vietnamese that avoids the ridiculous excesses of Asian fusion. Sadly, it's now closed, and Viet Bistro, chef-owner Daniel Nguyen's long-in-coming follow-up, may leave people even more disappointed. Tired appetizers of vegetable tempura and beef skewers and boring curries and stir-fries predominate. Even the more unusual items lacked excitement: a papaya salad with jellyfish, something that's usually searingly hot, here was practically unseasoned and required a healthy dollop of chile sauce to bring it to life. Tem, a sweet grilled chicken and pork meatball lollipopped on a stalk of lemongrass, was pretty but sort of pointless. Spicy shrimp curry was thin and watery; a red snapper was overfried; bo lui, beef cubes marinated in pinot noir and soy sauce, was nothing more than shish kebab by another name. One hopes things will turn around; in the meantime the restaurant has received its liquor license. Mike Sula

Xel-Ha
710 N. Wells | 312-274-9500

$$$
MEXICAN | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Xel-Ha (pronounced "shell ha"), the latest venture from chef Dudley Nieto (Chapulin, Adobo Grill, Zapatista), is one of Chicago's most elegant Mexican dining spaces, with a mammoth mahogany bar staffed by a knowledgeable bartender and stocked with 60 premium tequilas. It's also one of few Chicago restaurants featuring Yucatecan cuisine, which unlike the foods of many other Mexican regions isn't inherently spicy but can be amped up with incendiary salsas. Chef Nieto is justly proud of his version of queso relleno, Edam cheese stuffed with seasoned ground beef in white sauce. Served with sweet raisins, olives, and saffron, it's a characteristic fusion of Native American, European, and Middle Eastern traditions. Nieto also turns out traditional renditions of turkey (a Yucatecan native) in black recado, a chile paste that's been around since the Mayans' heyday, and zin de venado, shredded venison served with orange sauce and tamulada, a salsa made with habanero chiles and roasted tomatoes. David Hammond

Send a letter to the editor.

From the Reader blogs

The Food Chain Julia Thiel: Possible uses for a "turkey cannon."
Friday at 12:11 pm