At Vella Cafe, under the Western Blue Line stop: owners Sara Voden and Melissa Yen, Mexican shortbread cookies, and a Caesar salad Rob Warner

May 25, 2007

Vella Cafe
1912 N. Western
773-489-7777

FOR THE PAST few years Sara Voden and Melissa Yen have been selling what may be the finest sandwiches in Chicago from a small patch of grass in Lincoln Park. Their grill at the Green City Market produced wondrous items like a grilled Moroccan chicken panini and the French Toast, whose name is a total undersell: it's Red Hen country white stuffed with honey-orange cream cheese, baked in a custard, and pressed on a panini grill. Last week Voden and Yen took their operation indoors, opening Vella Cafe, a breakfast-and-lunch storefront under the Blue Line stop at Western. Named after Voden's old cat, it has a roof and seats and everything.

The outstanding paninis are still on offer, including a frittata panini that's among the best egg sandwiches I've ever had, but the menu has been expanded to include house-made pastries, crepes, soups, and salads. At the cafe's inaugural Sunday brunch a continuous line circled lazily through the restaurant -- a roomy, colorful, high-ceilinged space -- and around the tables Voden and Yen built themselves. The counter was designed and constructed by Yen's husband. Friends helped paint. The ceiling globes and glass pastry platters were thrifted. "There's no frills," says Voden. "Everything is patched together."

When Voden and Yen first saw the newly built storefront, a year ago, when it was still concrete and dust, they'd already had one false start. The year before they'd signed a lease on a storefront on North Damen, just south of Argyle, only to discover that the space a few doors down had been rented to another breakfast-and-lunch spot, Over Easy. Reluctant about the competition, they persuaded James Ventrella of Ventrella's Caffeto take over their rent.

After looking in Uptown, Edgewater, Roscoe Village, and anywhere else they thought they could afford, they beat out Starbucks and a couple banks -- businesses with credit history -- for the single-floor structure directly beneath the el stop. There are "no names, no big backers, just the two of us," Voden says. But their landlords, the owners of the Green Eye Lounge, just around the corner, as well as Lemmings and Underbar, wanted a local business in the spot.

Voden, who grew up in Milwaukee, moved to Chicago about 15 years ago and began baking at the Dellwood Pickle (now closed) in Andersonville. After starting classes at Kendall College she was recruited to be the assistant to the pastry chef at Marché and then became the pastry chef herself. She burned out after a few years and went to work at Rita's Catering, a job she just left. Yen, who's from the suburbs, spent many years as a waitress in the city, helping to open Brasserie Jo and Le Colonial. Until recently she worked at Milk and Honey, the Wicker Park breakfast-and-lunch spot, which influenced the feel and design of Vella Cafe, including the counter service.

When Voden and Yen were introduced through a mutual friend about three years ago, they were both looking for their own business. "I was crepe obsessed and I wanted to do a stand," Yen says. "I thought I was going to do it myself, which would have been so stupid. And Sara wanted to do a panini stand."

Since Green City already had a crepe stand, they went with paninis (though they did offer the occasional crepe brunch at the shared space Kitchen Chicago, where they were doing their prep cooking). "The market was a great testing ground for our relationships and our recipes," Voden says. Yen adds, "You see so many businesses -- they open a restaurant and six months later a partner splits."

The pair signed the lease on Western thinking that between loans from family and friends and their savings from the market, they'd have enough money to cover costs. They still needed a couple additional loans. "We are stretched to the limit," Voden says. "It's the stuff you don't think of," says Yen. "We had a column for the stuff we didn't think of and that number was way off."

Admittedly, there was a lot to think of. Voden recently saw a photograph of the unfinished original space. "I was shocked," she says. "Looking back on it, I couldn't believe that we even started it." --Nicholas Day

For more on restaurants, see our blog the Food Chain.

Sublime Sandwiches

From subs to tortas to banh mi

Ba Le Sandwich Shop
5018 N. Broadway | 773-561-4424

$
ASIAN, VIETNAMESE | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | CASH ONLY

The banh mi (Vietnamese subs) at this modest storefront are pictured and numbered behind the counter for easy reference. Crusty rolls begin with mayo, cilantro, a squirt of fish sauce, jalapeno, and pickled daikon and carrot. Next come the fillings, all made in-house. The pork sausage, or cha lua (literal translation: white fabric), is mild and bolognalike in texture. Bypass the chicken -- it's bland. The pork pat isn't. The vegetarian banh mi, a rarity on Argyle, has toothsome strips of fried tofu. The shrimp cake banh mi, a personal favorite, is light and airy; the lemongrass sausage is like a hot dog with a refreshing pop of citrusy flavor. Ba Le premakes a number of its more popular banh mi to anticipate customer surges. To avoid a dated sandwich, ask for a custom alteration -- extra fish sauce or no jalapeno, for example. Be careful with the extra fish sauce, though -- you risk clearing out an el car if you take your sandwich home with you. (Yes, this actually happened.) Peter Tyksinski

Bari Foods
1120 W. Grand | 312-666-0730

$
AMERICAN, ITALIAN | BREAKFAST: SEVEN DAYS; LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY

A grocery and deli (takeout only) on that stretch between Ashland and the Kennedy where West Grand suddenly goes Italian, Bari Foods makes a mean sandwich. On the abbreviated menu are subs stuffed with corned beef, roast beef, Italian sausage, or Italian deli meats, but a favorite is the fresh mozzarella and prosciutto sub. Available at 9 or 12 inches, the sandwich packs ultrathin slices of melt-in-your-mouth prosciutto and hunks of squeaky cheese between the halves of a loaf of French bread crisp from the ovens next door at D'Amato's Bakery, and dresses it up with shredded lettuce, onion, and tomato, with a dash of oil and Italian seasoning. The deli case includes a choice of fish salad, antipasto, and a selection of olives and other delicacies like lupini beans and hand-canned giardiniera. For an easier side dish, ask for one of the monster dill pickles or grab a bag of chips on the way to the register. Martha Bayne

Bombon Cafe
38 S. Ashland | 312-733-8717

$
MEXICAN | BREAKFAST: MONDAY-SATURDAY; LUNCH: SEVEN DAYS; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY

Tortas at this charming outpost of Pilsen's Bombon bakery feature a vibrant mix of ingredients: the Piolin, for example, layers chunks of adobo-marinated chicken breast with tomatoes, grilled onions, mesclun greens, avocado, and paper-thin slices of Chihuahua cheese on a pumpkin-seed-encrusted teleras bun. There are also tasty variations on staples like tamales (mushroom, pork in salsa verde) and mini quesadillas, which replace the typical tortilla with small triangles of pastry; fillings include bacalao (codfish), zucchini blossoms, and an exceptional one with huitlacoche (corn smut). Proprietors Luis and Laura Perea offer two daily soups and five salads, among them the Popeye (spinach, radicchio, jicama, and bell peppers with a serrano vinaigrette) and the Xochimilco (beets, frisee, mesclun, apples, pears, and goat cheese with an orange chile piquin vinaigrette). As you'd expect, the spot's desserts are delicious, from the tres leches cake to treats like piedras, a chocolate-topped dried bread pudding. Peter Margasak

The Brown Sack
3706 W. Armitage | 773-661-0675

$
AMERICAN, ICE CREAM | LUNCH: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: TUESDAY-FRIDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASH ONLY | BYO

It's a long way from Malaika Marion's first Chicago job at Planet Hollywood to her "soup, sandwich, and shake shack" on the western fringe of Logan Square. Most recently a manager at Lula Cafe, Marion's lived in the neighborhood for years and when she saw the teeny Armitage storefront she knew the time was right to break out on her own. With help from her fiance, Adam Lebin -- until recently the GM at Red Light -- she's turned the space into a sunny, six-table destination for hearty down-home standards like a gooey grilled peanut butter, banana, and honey sandwich and beefarific chili laced with head-clearing handfuls of cumin and chile (a vegan version is also available). The daunting Reuben -- a popular choice based on a peek at the other tables -- comes piled with thick folds of corned beef topped with the traditional Thousand Island dressing and melted Swiss, plus grilled onions. There's also rich mac 'n' cheese, meatball subs, Goose Island root beer floats, and daily soup, sandwich, and dessert specials. It's cash only and BYO; the recently expanded hours are now 9 AM to 8 PM Tuesday-Friday, 9 AM to 6 PM Saturday-Sunday. Martha Bayne

Costello Sandwich & Sides
2015 W. Roscoe | 773-929-2323

F 7.5 | S 6.4 | A 5.6 | $ (5 reports)
AMERICAN, ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

This quaint neighborhood sandwich shop run by siblings Lisa and Christopher Costello serves relatively inexpensive, hearty fare in Roscoe Village. Homemade soups change every day or two and are offered alongside generously stuffed sandwiches such as the Italian Grinder and the Smokin' Turk. Raters appreciate the several vegetarian options and the side dishes. The $8-$9 deluxe meal special includes a sandwich, chips, a side, and a medium drink. In the summer, seating includes both an inviting back patio and a smaller sidewalk cafe. There's a second location at 4647 N. Lincoln. Laura Levy Shatkin

Dagel and Beli
7406 N. Greenview | 773-743-2354

$
DELI, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Ram on High ("numperpickel bagel, hoked money sham, swiss, tour yoice of choppings"). Fart Smella ("barlic gagel, boast reef, blue, comato, tapers, and lomaine rettuce"). Spoonerisms are all very well in their way, I suppose, but this little deli goes so nuts with the verbal scramblings that deciphering the offerings just might drive you nuts. Thankfully the place does offer a "translation menu" in plain English. The other gimmick here is that the more-than-20 specialty bagel sandwiches all come steamed, which has an upside (who doesn't like melted cheese?) but also a slight downside -- since the process takes about ten minutes, you'll wait a little while for your food. The bagels themselves are from New York Bagel & Bialy, and they come with a wide range of accompaniments, from spicy mayo to fresh basil; there's also a cheaper kids' menu. Adjoining Dagel and Beli is Charmers Cafe, which serves pastries, Homer's ice cream, a variety of teas, and superior Metropolis coffee. Kate Schmidt

Dodo
935 N. Damen | 773-772-3636

$
BREAKFAST, AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/ REGIONAL, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASH ONLY

Fans who mourned the closing of Leo's Lunchroom (and pretty much everybody else) will find a lot to like in Dodo, a tiny Ukrainian Village spot. The cafe shares the space with an art gallery, and the predictable funky, punky music plays, but the place isn't so arty that it fails to be family friendly -- in fact kids seem to outnumber the grown-ups at times. Breakfast diners are promptly greeted with outstanding coffee (La Colombe Torrefaction from Philadelphia); French toast is moist inside, crispy outside, and for an extra $1.50 can be upgraded with maple-sauteed bananas. Other breakfast items range from the expected (Irish oatmeal, omelets, bacon and eggs, hash) to the unexpected (Japanese pancakes). At lunch, served weekdays only, there's a cafe assortment of soups, salads, and sandwiches including the "Dodo monsieur," a house version of the grilled classic. Jim Mitchell

Eppy's Deli
224 E. Ontario | 312-943-7797

F 7.1 | S 6.4 | A 6.0 | $ (5 reports)
KOSHER/JEWISH/DELI | BREAKFAST: SATURDAY- SATURDAY; LUNCH: SEVEN DAYS; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY

This Streeterville 25-seater calls its sandwiches overstuffed, but even that's an understatement: there's close to half a pound of corned beef, roast beef, turkey pastrami, or hard salami in each one. You can also get your sandwich stuffed with a homemade deli salad -- chicken, tuna, whitefish, or egg -- on your choice of conveyance: rye or marble rye bread, a bagel (they stock good, chewy ones from New York Bagel & Bialy in Skokie), or a lettuce leaf. There's chicken soup year-round (you can ask for rice, noodles, or matzo balls in it) and four special soups every day. For dessert there are baked goods: giant decorated cookies, black-and-white shortbread, cheesecake, and cupcakes, along with Jewish favorites like rugelach and mandelbrot. Laura Levy Shatkin

Fan Si Pan
1618 W. Chicago | 312-738-1405

$
ASIAN, VIETNAMESE | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | BYO

Susan Furst, who cooked under Michael Foley at Printer's Row and Mark Baker at Four Seasons, runs a shop so cute and bright that it's like this drab stretch of Chicago Avenue's first color TV. It's a tiny space with four tables plus a window nook where Furst makes her own sauces, pickles the daikon for her banh mi (Vietnamese sub sandwiches), and juices honeydew for her refreshing honeydew limeade; her sandwich bread, pat, and ham come from Uptown's Ba Le Sandwich Shop. Among the spring rolls -- both traditional and wrapless "deconstructed" varieties -- the beef stands out, made with caramelized strips of meat and bits of fresh mango. The nine varieties of banh mi range from chicken, beef, and veggie to Vietnamese meatball, shrimp and pat, and Vietnamese ham and pat, all topped with a crisp layer of daikon, carrot, jalapeno, and cilantro. Fried batter-dipped green beans replace french fries as the must-order side. The name? It's a mountain in Vietnam and tripped off Furst's tongue better than "Susie's Spring Roll." Peter Tyksinski

First Slice Pie Cafe
4401 N. Ravenswood | 773-506-7380

$
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, BAKERY | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASH ONLY

Mary Ellen Diaz put in time as head chef at Printer's Row, as chef-owner of her own place, and as a corporate chef for the Lettuce Entertain You empire. But her dream had always been to work in a restaurant modeled on Jane Addams's community kitchens. In 2002 she launched First Slice, a nonprofit that makes hand-cooked meals for the homeless. To fund it Diaz originally used money from her subscription meal service; in 2005 she opened this First Slice Pie Cafe in the Lillstreet Art Center to further increase the amount. In the tiny space -- there are just a few tables -- she offers slices of several truly scrumptious pies, from basic apple to red wine and poached pear, plus cakes, cookies, bars, and fair-trade coffee served in mugs made at the center. Savory offerings include simple, hearty dishes such as creamy tomato soup, turkey chili, black bean tamales with pepita salsa, a shredded duck sandwich on sourdough, and a grilled number with goat cheese, roasted vegetables, and poached pear that one Rater calls "the best sandwich I have had in recent memory." Susannah J. Felts

Freddie's
701 W. 31st | 312-808-0147

$
ITALIAN, AMERICAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 2, SUNDAY-THURSDAY TILL MIDNIGHT

My dad always said if you're going to do something, do it right. So when the lady at Freddie's asked if I wanted gravy with my Italian sausage, I of course said yes. This sandwich is a big ol' hoagie roll stuffed with not one but two giant sausages and covered with your standard giardiniera. It comes with a container of beef juice for dunking. Italian sausage with gravy? Oh yes. By the end of it I felt like I'd just had the most amazing sex of my life, and the old men and cops whispering in the kitchen made me wonder if I had stumbled onto some secret fraternity. Ringo

Hannah's Bretzel
180 W. Washington | 312-621-1111

$
EUROPEAN, VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-FRIDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Most of the food at this shiny red-and-white Loop storefront is organic, including the bretzels (large breadlike pretzels), the whole-grain muesli, the coffee and tea, and much of the fruit, cheese, and chocolate. The whole-grain Farmer's Bretzel was mild and could have used some mustard, while the multigrain version was tasty and perfect for dunking into soup. But the centerpiece was the sandwiches, served on freshly baked whole-grain baguettes with peppery homemade potato chips. The Vegetable Bomb had arugula, cucumbers, tomatoes, red onions, sprouts, mellow avocado, and a tangy vinaigrette on whole-grain bread; my friend gave a thumbs-up to his Black Forest ham on bretzel bread (the meat is imported from Germany). You can order a lunch box or breakfast bretzel basket for delivery, and there's now a second Loop location, at 233 N. Michigan. Cara Jepsen

La Banh Mi Hung Phat
4942 N. Sheridan | 773-878-6688

$
ASIAN, VIETNAMESE | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY-TUESDAY, THURSDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED WEDNESDAY | CASH ONLY

La Banh Mi Hung Phat serves some of the best banh mi around Argyle -- though you may have to work for it. On my first visit a helpful but strict woman named Michelle wouldn't sell me the three sandwiches arranged on the counter because they'd been sitting there too long. Come back early in the morning, she told me. I appreciated this, but when I returned she'd make me nothing more than a single pork-skin banh mi -- long chewy strands of skin dressed in nuoc cham, the sweet, spicy fish sauce. She advised me to return on subsequent mornings to sample other varieties. The extra effort was worth it: the tender roast pork is flecked with delectable bits of caramelized skin, and the shredded chicken is redolent of the spices applied to the fantastic barbecued ducks that hang at Vinh Phat next door. Other varieties distinguished themselves as well: the Chinese barbecued pork had large chunks of meat, and the grilled marinated pork was cooked halfway to jerky (not a criticism) and steeped in a visibly herby spice mixture. My favorite, the "steamed pork ball," is an eviscerated meatball, sort of like the coarsely ground, extrafunky Issan-style Thai sausage. Mike Sula

Manny's Coffee Shop & Deli
1141 S. Jefferson | 312-939-2855

F 8.0 | S 7.0 | A 6.0 | $ (6 reports)
AMERICAN, KOSHER/JEWISH/DELI | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Some things are never as good as they used to be. The delis of yesteryear were palaces, serving sliced meat a mile high for $1.98. Now? At Manny's the latkes are very good, light and crisp, fluffy and flavorful -- you don't need a side of applesauce to enjoy. But you should have had them before! They were potato ambrosia, splendor in the grease. And these prices: $9.95 for a sandwich in a cafeteria? A strange one too: instead of paying at the end of the line like G-d intended, you pay on the way out, after you eat. But Manny's has been here since 1942, and they know what they're doing. They serve brisket, roast beef, corned beef, very lean, and pastrami, fatty in all the right places, piled high on rye. Too high! How are you supposed to eat all this? So share or get a doggie bag. What else are you going to order at a place like Manny's -- a veggie burger? Jeffrey Felshman

Milk and Honey Cafe
1920 W. Division | 773-395-9434

F 7.3 | S 6.0 | A 7.7 | $ (6 reports)

Brunch is popular at this Wicker Park charmer, offering mimosas, huevos rancheros, and pancakes with the house-made granola. But the lunch menu is also worth a trip: bread from Red Hen and Turano Bakery is loaded with grilled chicken, thick-cut bacon, roasted tomatoes, and blue cheese; capicola, provolone, and tomato; or a grilled portobello with sauteed spinach, herbed goat cheese, and roasted red pepper. All come with potato chips and a pickle, both homemade; nicely prepared side dishes might include a caprese, pesto pasta, and sesame kale. Laura Levy Shatkin

Mr. Beef
666 N. Orleans | 312-337-8500

$
ITALIAN, AMERICAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | CASH ONLY

My friend Rose used to say of a barbecue joint in Athens, Georgia, "That motherfuckin' barbecue's good enough to make you want to slap yo' grandmama!" I never got what she meant until I visited Mr. Beef. Eat enough of these incredible Italian beef sandwiches and you'll be pummeling your granny, your brother, your best friend, and your significant other for good measure. Composed of half a French roll, a mound of thinly sliced beef, hot and sweet peppers, and a liberal dousing of jus, they are unspeakably delicious. There are other things on the menu, but who cares? The droves of people coming in the door aren't there for the chicken sandwich. Old-school digs and friendly yet cranky service lend that authentic Chicago vibe. Chip Dudley

Nhu Lan Bakery
2612 W. Lawrence | 773-878-9898

$
ASIAN, VIETNAMESE | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY-MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED TUESDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Nhu Lan Bakery, a newish Vietnamese bakery in Lincoln Square, is a pioneer, striking out relatively far from the Broadway/Argyle intersection. It's a risky business plan, but a treasure for the neighborhood. Demi baguettes are baked fresh daily to cradle nine different fillings (only five were available on my last visit), typically accented by pickled, julienned carrot and daikon, cucumbers, mayo, cilantro, thinly sliced jalapenos, and dressed with spicy-sweet nuoc cham, a potent fish sauce. Among my favorites is the "special," a meat-lover's sub with a schmear of rich pat, headcheese, ham, and a fried pork sausage called cha hue. The ham banh mi is piled with jambon and a generous wipe of pat, a simpler version that highlights the textural contrast between the two. There's also a meatball filling, sweet and messy like a sloppy joe; a lemony shredded chicken; grilled pork; and an all-vegetable variety, the only one I can't recommend. These superb sandwiches run a mere $2 to $2.50; buy five and you get one free. A large selection of Vietnamese snacks is available for takeaway: spring rolls, yellow house-made mayo, Western pastries, and a rotating variety of sweet rice and pudding desserts in challenging flavors -- corn, mung bean, sweet potato, sausage. You can take away vacuum-sealed sausage, pat, ham, and headcheese too. Mike Sula

Panes Bread Cafe
3002 N. Sheffield | 773-665-0972

$
AMERICAN, ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASH ONLY

Casual Italian-American cafe and bakery serving salads, sandwiches, pizza, and pasta. Sandwiches come on freshly baked bread and include old standards -- ham and cheese, BLT, chicken salad -- as well as more enterprising options such as Oaxacan pork loin with grilled onions, roasted cubanella peppers, and red pepper aioli. Sourdough bread comes in three varieties: plain, rosemary olive, and garlic oregano. Tomato focaccia is baked daily, along with honey-sweetened baguettes and Italian semolina loaves. There are a few tables indoors and, in summer, another half dozen on the sidewalk under giant green umbrellas. Martha Bayne

Pastoral Artisan Cheese, Bread & Wine
2945 N. Broadway | 773-472-4781

$$
EUROPEAN, AMERICAN | LUNCH: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY

This Lakeview gourmet shop may be best known for its outstanding artisanal cheese selection, but it also offers carryout sandwiches featuring other mouthwatering products. Take the panino di prosciutto -- San Daniele prosciutto with aged cheese and field greens on a pressed baguette -- or the salumi Basquese, spicy salami with piquillo peppers. A line of luxury picnic baskets for two begins in the mid-$30s; menus are available at pastoralartisan.com (for a basket, call 24 hours in advance). Kathie Bergquist

Southport Grocery & Cafe
3552 N. Southport | 773-665-0100

F 7.5 | S 6.5 | A 7.2 | $$ (13 reports)
GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SEVEN DAYS; DINNER: MONDAY-FRIDAY

This upscale food shop offers condiments, pasta, herbs, and the like along with a small assortment of reasonably priced wines and microbrews and a cooler of gourmet cheese and butter. Then there's the cafe, which features owner Lisa Santos's creative, seasonally changing takes on the standards: her grilled cheese, for instance, is Brie, spinach, and mushrooms on ciabatta served with "grown-up applesauce." Also on the menu (which includes tasting portions and suggested wine pairings): a cheese flight and other selections featuring Zingerman's cheeses; a salad with prosciutto, salami, and figs; and a burger piled with Nueske bacon, sour cream, cheese, and caramelized onions. For breakfast there are a range of omelets, plus French toast and pancakes and steak and eggs layered with tortilla chips and topped with salsa. The children's menu offers such mother-approved standbys as buttered noodles and PB&J with the crusts cut off, both with sides of applesauce and steamed veggies and served on ceramic TV trays. Kathie Bergquist

Swim Cafe
1357 W. Chicago | 312-492-8600

$
AMERICAN, BREAKFAST, VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SEVEN DAYS; DINNER: MONDAY-FRIDAY

Former caterer Karen Gerod serves fresh, organic foods from local and socially conscious vendors -- Ineeka Tea, Naked juices and smoothies, and java from Just Coffee -- and uses them in her sandwiches, salads, quiches, and sweets at this cafe awash in mild, bright shades of aqua and sea foam green. I can think of no more perfect treat for kids who've worked up an appetite across the street in the Eckhart Park pool than a PB&J on Red Hen's scrumptious chocolate bread. A tuna sandwich on pumpernickel gets a kick from capers, avocado, cucumber, and lemon, and a ham-and-cheese panini uses Jarlsberg cheese. Desserts vary, but with any luck the selection might include chocolate bread pudding or peanut butter fudge. Gerod also bakes her own cupcakes, muffins, cookies, and scones, which she keeps diminutive by design -- "small but rich" is her motto. Susannah J. Felts

La Unica Foods & Cafeteria
1515 W. Devon | 773-274-7788

$
CUBAN, LATIN AMERICAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SEVEN DAYS; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY

Tucked in the back of a Cuban market is this gem, serving a mostly male and incredibly jovial crowd. It's counter service only, and it closes early. A few Colombian specialties like arepas (corn pancakes with cheese) and tamales are regular offerings, along with a spicy pork and garbanzo bean soup. The fabulous Cuban roast pork sandwiches are a favorite here, as are the cumin-spiced rice and beans. Don't miss the bacalao -- Spanish salt cod -- served with potatoes and boiled yuca. Plantains come in several preparations, from a fried green version to a roasted sweet version. Drinks include juices, shakes, and sweet, milky Cuban coffee. Laura Levy Shatkin

Ventrella's Caffe
4947 N. Damen | 773-506-0708

$
COFFEE SHOP, ITALIAN, ICE CREAM | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

James Ventrella modeled his homey Ravenswood cafe on the restaurants and shops he visited as a child in Chicago's Italian neighborhoods. "I wanted to pick up a store from Harlem Avenue in, like, 1950 and just drop it here on Damen," he says. Hence the many vintage pieces, such as a sink from a 1930s-era Pullman railroad car and a fridge from the mid-50s. Even the mint in the iced tea is vintage of a sort -- Ventrella gets it from his mom, who transplanted it from a garden that her father planted 80-some years ago. His other offerings include Lavazza coffee and espresso, panini (Gorgonzola with pear, proscuitto with provolone and green apple, a Caprese with giardiniera), soups, and baked goods, many made by Ventrella's aunts. But don't miss the gelato and sorbetto, crafted by a small-batch artisan in Michigan in flavors like chocolate espresso bean, stracciatella (vanilla ribboned with chocolate), and pistachio. The last is "kind of an old-guy flavor," Ventrella says. "But even the kids ask for it." Anne Ford

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