Intelligentsia head roaster Caleb Mayhall; Jeff and Tony Dreyfuss at Metropolis Rob Warner

March 30, 2007

Metropolis Coffee Company
1039 W. Granville
773-764-0400

Intelligentsia
3123 N. Broadway
773-348-8058

OVER THE PAST few years, the concept of seasonality -- eating what's fresh -- has gotten so hot that farmers' markets are now pickup spots. But there are still a few things that seem to be seasonless. Coffee, say. Who looks at a bag of coffee and wonders, When were these beans picked?

In fact, a few people wonder just that, and they think we'd have better coffee if more people did. Intelligentsia, a Chicago roaster that buys direct from growers, is about to open an LA cafe where the list of in-season coffees will change regularly, a program it hopes to then bring back to its locations in Chicago. And Metropolis Coffee, an Edgewater microroaster and cafe, already advertises that "coffee is seasonal, just like produce."

Marketing coffee this way is new, says Connie Blumhardt, publisher of the trade magazine Roast. Until recently she'd never heard anyone explicitly sell coffee as seasonal. (She knows both local roasters well: Roast named Intelligentsia its 2007 large roaster of the year and gave Metropolis the award in the microroaster category.) "Historically the way coffee's been sold has been more like cereal," says Doug Zell, Intelligentsia's founder. But if the idea of its seasonality catches on, coffee options may soon be very different: more diverse, fresher, and -- if you believe the hype -- better.

In Chicago, you buy tomatoes in August, asparagus in April, and coffee whenever you run out. Coffee beans aren't fresh, after all -- they're dried. But even after they're dried they retain a percentage of moisture and acid, key flavor components that dissipate with time. Estimates I got ranged from six to nine months; higher growing elevations mean a thicker shell and a longer life. Of course, you can still drink an older coffee. But it'll taste like a January tomato.

At least that's the metaphor Metropolis uses on its Web site. But when I met Tony Dreyfuss, who co-owns the business with his father, Jeff, he backed off the claim a little. "I had a Roma tomato last night and it was really bad," he said. "But the Costa Rican," a coffee that's a little less than a year old, "doesn't taste like shit right now. It's just flat."

We tried the Costa Rican at the daily Metropolis "cupping," the coffee industry's equivalent of a wine tasting. Boiling water is poured over a few grounds, which form a crust on the top. You break the crust with a spoon, breathe in the aroma from the oils trapped beneath, then slurp the coffee with a spoon, which maximizes the taste -- professionals do this loudly and vigorously, like someone snorting a line. Coffees from Brazil and Bolivia, relatively new arrivals, were terrific: the Bolivian floral and honeylike, the Brazilian creamy and rich. But the year-old Costa Rican really did taste flat: the country's known for bright coffees, but this was dull and monochromatic.

The coffees we tried were all roasted lightly: with a darker roast, differences are eroded, and for a cupping the roast is particularly light, so the bean is exposed instead of the roast. Starbucks (aka Charbucks) uses a notoriously dark roast, which inevitably makes freshness and geographic distinctions less apparent, and now that dark roast is often associated with good coffee. That drives the specialty roasters crazy. A darker roast, says Zell, masks coffee's natural acidity; at Metropolis the daily brew is never a dark roast like French or Italian. Another problem is that the roasters supplying cafes carry too many coffees, Jeff Dreyfuss says. "Many roasters will try to keep all those coffees in stock," he says. "That leads to a situation in which over half your coffees are well beyond their prime."

Coffee is already seasonal, both Zell and the Dreyfusses say -- they're simply letting people know about it. At Metropolis there are customers who say, "'Oh, I love Costa Rican -- only Costa Rican will do,'" says Jeff Dreyfuss. "But six months out of the year that's a disservice." --Nicholas Day

For more on restaurants, see our blog the Food Chain.

Cafe Society

Twenty-six spots for a cuppa joe

Atomix
1957 W. Chicago | 312-666-2649

$
VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

This sunny room furnished with 50s-modern-style tables and chairs doesn't have a huge menu, but who cares when you can design your own sandwich using a grease pencil to mark off options on a laminated card? Ingredients include hummus, cold cuts, and lots of homemade spreads including an olive variety and a dairy-free cucumber-dill. Vegans can also order vegan baked goods, veggie chili, or a grilled soy cheese sandwich, and there are plenty of coffee drinks. Atomix is home to a So and So's Button-o-matic, a vending machine that dispenses one-inch buttons designed by local artists, and a photo booth. Holly Greenhagen

Bourgeois Pig
738 W. Fullerton | 773-883-5282

$
AMERICAN, GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: TILL 11 EVERY NIGHT

Over ten years old, this charming Lincoln Park establishment might easily be mistaken for having been around even longer. Located in an old brownstone, it's true to 60s-coffeehouse form, with creaky hardwood floors, hundreds of newspapers and books lining the shelves, and a menu of homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and baked goods posted on four huge blackboards. The extensive lineup ranges from a Great Gatsby Club (pesto, bacon, and smoked turkey) to a veggie panino (artichoke hearts, cilantro, and fresh spinach) to a scrumptious daily quiche with a flaky, buttery crust. You can also build your own sandwich or get a half with a cup of soup or salad. The quiet and somewhat unkempt surroundings -- an antidote to the antiseptic ambience of newer shops -- attract a studious crowd. The patio is a major plus on a sunny day. Laura Levy Shatkin

Cafe Ballou
939 N. Western | 773-342-2909

$
BREAKFAST, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY-TUESDAY, THURSDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED WEDNESDAY | CASH ONLY

Cafe Ballou's pressed-tin ceiling is painted ivory, and the tables are set with crocheted doilies and teacups filled with flowers. Sheer lace curtains hang in the front windows, and there's a floral rug on the floor. The cafe might bring to mind a great-aunt's parlor but for the stacks of glossy magazines, the blackboard-chalked menus, and the laptops -- customers connect to the Internet gratis, and owner Christine Kordiuk scoffs at joints that charge for the privilege. She serves Intelligentsia coffee and offers daily drink and lunch specials, such as half a turkey sandwich, a cup of soup, and a salad for $6. The food's made to order, simple and fresh, and there's a daily selection of pastries made by a local caterer. Susannah J. Felts

Cafe Con Leche
2714 N. Milwaukee | 773-289-4274

$
MEXICAN, BREAKFAST, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | CASH ONLY

Despite the name, Cafe Con Leche makes only a shortish list of coffee drinks; the menu's standard Mexican and heavy on breakfast stuff like huevos rancheros. I assumed a coffee shop would serve lots of cold take-out options, but the menu listed just a couple, including a Cuban sandwich: ham and cheese with steak, butter, pickle, and best of all a side of amber-colored homemade hot sauce. All for four bucks. Nice! Dinner patrons should get here early; closing time is 8 PM. Ann Sterzinger

Cafe Florian
1450 E. 57th | 773-752-4100

$
AMERICAN, PIZZA, COFFEE SHOP | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY & SUNDAY TILL 11:30 | BYO

Located on a stretch of 57th just west of the train tracks, this pleasant cafe has clean hardwood floors and colorfully painted walls. Besides the basic coffeehouse menu -- teas, cocoa, and a multitude of coffee drinks -- there are burgers, pizza, and brunch on weekends. It's a comfortable spot to linger, and close to the U. of C. campus. Laura Levy Shatkin

Catedral Cafe
2500 S. Christiana | 773-277-2233

$
EUROPEAN, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | BYO

Catedral Cafe, an Internet coffeehouse in Little Village, has the charmingly kitschy feel of a cathedral gift shop: the bright blue-ceilinged room is decorated with crosses, religious statues, and a Pope John Paul II banner. It's BYO, and after we sat down our waitress immediately offered to open our wine for us; throughout our meal the service was attentive but relaxed. We started with skin-on fries and jalapeno poppers, a deliciously evil concoction of chiles stuffed with cream cheese, then breaded and fried. My friend liked his smoked salmon croissant but was less enthusiastic about the enormous side of pasta salad -- too many green olives (my pesto chicken bruschetta also suffered from a surfeit of them). Other offerings include sandwiches and paninis, pasta, and a variety of crepes. For dessert we had espresso and huge portions of cheesecake and tiramisu drizzled with raspberry sauce -- and it all came in at under 40 bucks. Rob Christopher

Crepe & Coffee Palace
2433 N. Clark | 773-404-1300

$
MEDITERRANEAN, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY | BYO

Can a hidden treasure be in plain sight? On a busy stretch of Clark just north of Fullerton, you'll find this delightful Algerian-style eatery. The walls are festooned with rugs and other North African gewgaws, and Arabic pop plays on a small boom box. The only giveaway that you're in Chicago is the annoying intermittent noise from the parking garage next door. A sign on the window says "Hot Crepes Day and Night," and indeed you can pretty much get any kind of crepe you can imagine. Dinner starts off with homemade soup, either roast chicken or vegetable, gently spiced and wonderfully porridgelike. My crepe was a heavenly spongy wedge bursting with fresh ingredients: mixed greens, caramelized onions, roasted garlic, toasted pine nuts, mozzarella, and merguez sausage. It was thoroughly satisfying by itself, but skipping dessert at a crepe place is like getting decaf at Intelligentsia. I went for one with raspberry jam and Belgian dark chocolate. It arrived drizzled with chocolate sauce and decked with a miniature drink umbrella atop a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Authentic Turkish coffee, served tableside, was a perfect complement. Prices are extremely reasonable. Rob Christopher

Dagel and Beli
7406 N. Greenview | 773-743-2354

$
KOSHER/JEWISH/DELI | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Ram on High ("numperpickel bagel, hoked money sham, swiss, tour yoice of choppings"). Fart Smella ("barlic gagel, boast reef, blue, comato, tapers, and lomaine rettuce"). Spoonerisms are all very well in their way, I suppose, but this little deli goes so nuts with the verbal scramblings that deciphering the offerings just might drive you nuts. Thankfully the place does offer a "translation menu" in plain English. The other gimmick here is that the more-than-20 specialty bagel sandwiches all come steamed, which has an upside -- who doesn't like melted cheese? -- but also the downside that since the process takes about ten minutes, you'll wait a little while for your food. The bagels themselves are from New York Bagel and Bialy, and they come with a wide range of accompaniments, from spicy mayo to fresh basil. Adjoining Dagel and Beli is Charmers Cafe, which serves pastries, Homer's ice cream, a variety of teas, and superior Metropolis coffee. Be warned: the "beli" closes at 6:30 nightly. Kate Schmidt

Dodo
935 N. Damen | 773-772-3636

$
BREAKFAST, AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/ REGIONAL, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST: SEVEN DAYS; LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASH ONLY

Fans who mourned the closing of Leo's Lunchroom (and pretty much everybody else) will find a lot to like in Dodo, a tiny Ukrainian Village spot. The cafe shares the space with an art gallery, and the predictable funky, punky music plays, but the place isn't so arty that it fails to be family friendly -- in fact kids seem to outnumber the grown-ups at times. Breakfast diners are promptly greeted with outstanding coffee (La Colombe Torrefaction from Philadelphia); French toast is moist inside, crispy outside, and for an extra $1.50 can be upgraded with maple-sauteed bananas. Other breakfast items range from the expected (Irish oatmeal, omelets, bacon and eggs, hash) to the unexpected (Japanese pancakes). At lunch, served weekdays only, there's a cafe assortment of soups, salads, and sandwiches including the "Dodo monsieur," a house version of the grilled classic. Jim Mitchell

Ennui Cafe
6981 N. Sheridan | 773-973-2233

$
AMERICAN, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Ennui Cafe has been sitting comfortably at the southeast corner of Sheridan and Lunt since sometime in the late 80s, imperturbable in the face of the constant car traffic whizzing by. It's a real, slightly tatty coffeehouse complete with a macrame plant holder and inhabited by a steady stream of regulars who bus their own tables and contribute to the place's slight insider quality. Despite being below street level, it's bright and airy due to the huge windows. At the entrance -- two sets of doors on either side of a lone corner table, creating what people call "the fishbowl" -- three steep stairs pitch you into the cafe, where mismatched furniture scrapes against the checkerboard floors, ceiling fans whir, and a long narrow counter under chalkboard menus is everyone's first stop. The food is inexpensive and reliable: there are baked goods of all kinds, eggs, sandwiches, paninis, salads, hummus, focaccia, soups. Desserts, both baked and blended (smoothies, shakes, malts), are also available, as is an endless variety of coffees, loose leaf teas, and sodas. During good weather many customers take their food and drink to the seating area outside, where the people watching is pleasant and there's a water trough for hot doggies trotting to and from Lake Michigan. Elizabeth Tamny

Hotti Biscotti
3545 W. Fullerton | 773-772-9970

$
AMERICAN, ITALIAN, COFFEE SHOP | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY |OPEN LATE: TUESDAY-SATURDAY TILL 2 |CASH ONLY

The menu -- written on boards above the bar -- is small but solid and ever changing. But the real attraction is the space itself, which is outfitted and broken up into areas like a studio apartment. Not in a fussy, American in Paris way; the overall impression is one of casual sloppiness, with nothing tucked away from public view. One area holds a couch and chairs and a TV with a DVD player that shows movies every Saturday; tables near the front are for eating and playing with the Simpsons chess sets; stools at the bar make for comfortable paper reading and lingering over a smoothie or a latte. Shelves store games and books, and toward the back lies an intimate stage, which handles a rotating list of performers. Elizabeth Tamny

Humboldt Pie
1001 N. California | 773-342-4743

$
AMERICAN, PIZZA, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | BYO

These days that's pie as in pizza pie -- thin crust and made to order -- but it's the sandwiches here that keep me coming back. You can build your own from a long list of ingredients, but I suggest choosing one of co-owner Nick La Rocco's specialties, served with chips, soup, or lightly vinaigrette-dressed field greens. Among the more inspired creations are the California Pepper, with roasted turkey, bell peppers, and other veggies; pepper Jack cheese on grilled wheat bread; and the Spicy Italian, ample layers of capicola, salami, and smoked turkey with pepperoncinis and provolone. Aside from a few basic salads, the rest is standard coffee-shop fare: bagels, muffins, espresso drinks, bottled juices and sodas. With leather couches and tables of varying sizes, and windows wrapping its corner location, the comfy room encourages lingering. Susannah J. Felts

Julius Meinl Cafe
3601 N. Southport | 773-868-1857

F 7.8 | S 6.9 | A 8.0 | $ (12 reports)
GERMAN/AUSTRIAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT

A classy place for those of moderate means, this is the first American outpost for Viennese coffee purveyor Julius Meinl. The coffee, served in huge cups, comes from beans roasted in Austria. Strong but not acidic, it's superb. The menu's tasty cafe fare: sandwiches (including one with European-style sausage, caramelized onions, apple-horseradish sauce, and Dijon mustard on a French roll), custardy quiches, salads, and a couple of soups. The quality is excellent, and prices are par for the neighborhood. The soups in particular are very good (e.g., cream of asparagus, cream of portobello). Of the six featured pastries, the Mohr im Hemd ("Moor in a nightshirt") is a must-try -- a small chocolate cake with a melted chocolate center, served with whipped cream and a tiny pitcher of warm chocolate sauce. There's also apple strudel, an espresso tart, and more. Service is modeled after that in European cafes, with waiters serving beverages and food on small shiny trays. Claire Dolinar, Rater

Kafein
1621 Chicago, Evanston | 847-491-1621

$
AMERICAN, COFFEE SHOP. VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 3, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 2 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Despite the influx of chain coffee shops in Evanston, this cozy storefront has remained popular with locals and students alike. The room is a hodgepodge of mismatched couches and art-covered wooden tables, and there's a raised area up front for an open mike on Monday nights. Its proximity to the Northwestern campus works in its favor, as does the nice assortment of salads, melts, soups, and ice cream concoctions (floats, shakes, sundaes). Multiple vegetarian offerings include chili, a garden burger, and a hummus sandwich. Laura Levy Shatkin

Kopi Cafe
5317 N. Clark | 773-989-5674

F 7.7 | S 6.8 | A 8.4 | $ (5 reports)
VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Unusual Andersonville cafe with world-traveler decor, including clocks displaying the time in Nepal and Jakarta and Balinese masks and puppets hanging overhead. You can sit at one of the hand-painted tables or plop down shoeless on the pillow-covered platform at the front of the room. The menu offers the usual cafe drinks and a mostly vegetarian assortment of sandwiches, salads, and snacks. Raters love the coffee but find the food inconsistent. A small boutique in the rear sells Asian-inspired clothing and crafts. John Norris, Rater

Kristoffer's Cafe & Bakery
1733 S. Halsted | 312-829-4150

$
BREAKFAST, AMERICAN, MEXICAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Lactose intolerants, consider yourselves warned. The tastiest dessert at this Pilsen cafe is the traditional tres leches cake, made with whole, condensed, and evaporated milk. Owners Carlos and Cristina Chavarria offer the classic vanilla rendition as well as a bouquet of variations, all startlingly moist. Cristina does the baking, a craft she learned while apprenticing at her sister's small home-based bakery in Guanajuato, Mexico. The tres leches recipe is her sister's, but Cristina's favorite dessert, flan with cheese, is her own creation. Made with cream cheese, it has an almost fluffy texture, like flan-flavored cheesecake. Besides breakfast, desserts, and Intelligentsia coffee, the menu offers standard sandwiches and salads, plus a couple of ethnic dishes. Tamales come in two forms: Mayan (wrapped in wet green banana leaves and filled with potatoes and chicken) and Mexican (bundled in the usual corn husks and stuffed with green peppers and cheese). Anne Ford

Mercury Cafe
1505 W. Chicago | 312-455-9924

$
AMERICAN, VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Alexandria Kalika, who opened this cavernous storefront after several years in the trenches at Starbucks and Caribou Coffee, has given the 4,500-square-foot space a paint job and outfitted it with tables, sofas, and free WiFi. In addition to coffee drinks, the simple menu has sandwiches, soups, salads, and yummy pastries including vegan baked goods; gelato's on the way when the weather warms up. There's an open mike every other Wednesday and on the third and last Friday of the month. Martha Bayne

No Friction Cafe
2023 N. California | 773-278-7170

$
AMERICAN, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY

This Logan Square coffeehouse outperforms a nearby Starbucks with both its tasty food and drinks and its pleasant atmosphere. Deli sandwiches are made from high-end Boar's Head meats and cheeses, plus there's a long list of breakfast creations like the Weird Sandwich -- cream cheese, steamed egg, and cucumbers on a toasted bagel. Coffee drinks include a standout mocha, hot chocolate, and iced coffee; there are also smoothies, pastries from Bleeding Heart Bakery, and cupcakes from JR Bakery and Desserts. Michael Marsh

The Perfect Cup
4700 N. Damen | 773-989-4177

$
AMERICAN, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | CASH ONLY

"Friends don't let friends drink Starbucks" says a bumper sticker posted over the menu board, and after a few visits here you may feel like the staff really are your friends. This bright, spacious room at the corner of Leland and Damen attracts a regular crowd of people reading, working, or chatting and showcases an endless supply of local art, but the real reason to come is the owner, Anne, and her sunny employees, who will always stop to talk -- or leave you alone if that's what you want. Purists might be put off by the fact that the espresso drinks are pressed by machine, not hand, but the plain old coffee is always good. Food offerings are limited: paninis, bagels, pita and hummus. Holly Greenhagen

Pierre's Bakery
2747 N. Milwaukee | 773-252-8888

$$
EUROPEAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Why on earth a pastry shop in a Mexican neighborhood that prints its literature in Spanish would be named Pierre's is beyond me. Ham-fisted snobbery? A hostile takeover? Somebody's madre can't spell? No, it's so people like me can make bad multilingual puns like "Hola la!" Pierre's deals in custom-baked goods and carryout; they have great cheap coffee, but the glaucously glazed pastries -- admittedly gorgeous, but oversweet and flavorless -- seem entirely a collaboration of the Americas. The half-cooked croissant I got was ten times more edible than what you'd get at Jewel, but not what a croissant should actually taste like. Yo quiero pain! Open daily at 6 AM. Ann Sterzinger

Savories
1651 N. Wells | 312-951-7638

$
AMERICAN, COFFEE SHOP |BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SEVEN DAYS

There's a Starbucks half a block away, but independent Savories is the Old Town coffeehouse where everybody knows your name -- and your business. Violeta Woodward opened Savories in 1987 and runs it as a haven for interesting people with strong opinions. The two funky old couches by the window are arranged for conversation, and you might be sharing it with the cop who lives across the street, a cutting-edge medical researcher, or a candidate for the U.S. Senate. Regulars wander in and out as if they lived there, and arguably they do. Besides the familiar coffee, scones, and muffins, Violeta whips up eggs, oatmeal, soups, salads, wraps, and sandwiches. "We make it all from scratch," she says. "We put a lot of love in our things." Michael Miner

Su Van's Cafe & Bake Shop
3351 N. Lincoln | 773-281-0120

$
AMERICAN, BAKERY, COFFEE SHOP | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

This bakery and coffee shop sells homemade muffins, scones, breads, cookies, bars, and cakes, but it's probably better known for its extensive sandwich menu. The nearly 30 varieties include four kinds of tuna, three vegetarian options, six grilled sandwiches, and a kids' section. There's also a full coffee menu, plus soups and chili made from scratch. Holly Greenhagen

Swim Cafe
1357 W. Chicago | 312-492-8600

$
VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY, COFFEE SHOP | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SEVEN DAYS

Former caterer Karen Gerod serves fresh, organic foods from local and socially conscious vendors -- Ineeka Tea, Naked juices and smoothies, and java from Just Coffee -- and uses them in her sandwiches, salads, quiches, and sweets at this cafe awash in mild, bright shades of aqua and sea foam green. I can think of no more perfect treat for kids who've worked up an appetite across the street in the Eckhart Park pool than a PB&J on Red Hen's scrumptious chocolate bread. A tuna sandwich on pumpernickel gets a kick from capers, cucumber, and lemon, and a ham-and-cheese panini uses Jarlsberg cheese. Desserts vary, but with any luck the chocolate bread pudding will become a staple -- served hot with whipped cream and berries, it's one of the most luscious concoctions I've had in some time. Gerod also bakes her own cupcakes, muffins, cookies, and scones, which she keeps diminutive by design -- "small but rich" is her motto. Susannah J. Felts

Third Coast
1260 N. Dearborn | 312-649-0730

$
AMERICAN, COFFEE SHOP |BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL MIDNIGHT

Swankier than your average coffeehouse, this cafe located in a 1920s-era building draws an eclectic mix of people for martinis and jazz served alongside the scones and cappuccino. The vibe is authentic: lingering is encouraged, you can get breakfast anytime, and rotating art exhibits cover the walls. The food's pretty good too, and there's now live music nightly. Holly Greenhagen

Uncommon Ground
3800 N. Clark |773-929-3680

F 7.2 | S 6.7 | A 7.1 | $$ (25 reports)
GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC, COFFEE SHOP |BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, MONDAY-THURSDAY TILL 11

Popular Wrigleyville coffeehouse with a dinner menu that changes seasonally. Specials, such as sesame-encrusted mahimahi with banana-curry sauce, are inventive and reasonably priced; all of the fruit pancakes from the breakfast/brunch menu are well worth trying. This is a comfortable place to get warm in the fall and winter: there's acoustic folk and rock six nights a week, and in addition to coffee drinks, they offer one of the best-prepared mugs of hot chocolate in the city. John Norris, Rater

Ventrella's Caffe
4947 N. Damen | 773-506-0708

$
COFFEE SHOP, ITALIAN, ICE CREAM | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

James Ventrella modeled his homey Ravenswood cafe on the restaurants and shops he visited as a child in Chicago's Italian neighborhoods. "I wanted to pick up a store from Harlem Avenue in, like, 1950 and just drop it here on Damen," he says. Hence the many vintage pieces, such as a sink from a 1930s-era Pullman railroad car and a fridge from the mid-50s. Even the mint in the iced tea is vintage of a sort -- Ventrella gets it from his mom, who transplanted it from a garden that her father planted 80-some years ago. His other offerings include Lavazza coffee and espresso, paninis (Gorgonzola with pear, proscuitto with provolone and green apple, a Caprese with giardiniera), soups, and baked goods, many made by Ventrella's aunts. But don't miss the gelato and sorbetto, crafted by a small-batch artisan in Michigan in flavors like chocolate espresso bean, stracciatella (vanilla ribboned with chocolate), and pistachio. The last is "kind of an old-guy flavor," Ventrella says. "But even the kids ask for it." Anne Ford

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