David Radom tossing seviche, the "dining room," cured salmon with lemon cream, Bill Dugan with Leo Bariso and Radom Rob Warner

February 2, 2007

Wellfleet
at the Fish Guy Market
4423 N. Elston
773-283-7400

LAST SUMMER SARAH Scott, a longtime executive chef for the Mondavi family, gave her friend Bill Dugan, aka the Fish Guy, an idea. A chef she knew had rented David Sedaris's Paris apartment and was running an underground restaurant in it. She thought he should do the same thing in his northwest-side seafood shop, the Fish Guy Market.

Dugan bit -- he supplies some of the best restaurants in town and had long been interested in opening his own. The result is Wellfleet, the "occasional restaurant" he's hosted in his store since October. Every Thursday he and a team of six transform the space into a dining room, serving up to 12 people a seafood-heavy degustation menu for $100 a head (reservations are required, as is payment in advance). The small room is lit by votive candles and blue neon from the refrigerator case, and chefs Leo Bariso and David Radom do the cooking right behind the counter.

Dugan makes up the menu, which changes monthly, emphasizing pristine prime ingredients like sturgeon caviar, sushi-grade fish, Kobe beef, and Kurobuta pork. Though not a trained chef himself, he's picked up plenty from working with chefs over his 30 years in the fish industry. "That's really how I learned everything," he says.

He was born in Boston and spent childhood summers digging clams on Cape Cod, but as a kid he never liked fish. (Except, he says, "Bumblebee tuna in a can.") Inspired by an uncle who'd started a jet freighter service flying Maine lobsters to Hong Kong and Tokyo, he struck a deal with some fishermen in Wellfleet, Massachusetts, to supply bluefin tuna to a Japanese market in San Francisco. He opened a wholesale seafood company in California in 1977 and went on to open another company specializing in smoked fish. In 1989 he was bought out by a Swedish firm that made him marketing director for a Sacramento-based sturgeon farm. He was consulting with Nordstrom restaurants in San Francisco when the department-store chain brought him in to work with the Oak Brook branch. He moved to Chicago in 1990, and launched a new wholesale seafood business, Superior Ocean Produce.

At the time Dugan was already acquainted with chefs Charlie Trotter, Jean Joho, and Eric Aubriot, and he quickly established himself as a supplier for high-end restaurants like Spiaggia and Tru. He decided to expand into retail in 1997, opening the Fish Guy Market the following year. The wholesale arm of the Fish Guy Market is still driven by restaurant business: Dugan's clients include Schwa, Tru, Alinea, and Moto. Matthias Merges, chef de cuisine at Charlie Trotter's, relies on him for such hard-to-find ingredients as codfish tripe, monkfish cartilage, and gooseneck barnacles.

For Wellfleet, Dugan keeps it simple. On the rainy night we were there we started with caviar a la Joel Robuchon, a dish inspired by a cooking demonstration given by the French chef some years ago. It's a ramekin of Illinois sturgeon caviar topped with layers of cauliflower puree and creme fraiche, the contrasting flavors of fish roe and earthy cauliflower surprisingly complementary. Our next course was a salmon loin prepared like gravlax, cured for 12 hours with smoked salt and dill and perked up with lemon cream. This was served with country-bread toast points and a knockout relish made of capers, red onion, lemon zest, and parsley.

Next came an extraordinarily light bisque of Maine bay shrimp, each bowl flecked with lemon thyme. While we ate, Radom gave us a primer on preparing lobster shells for stock (the best part of the lobster to use is where the legs attach to the body, where some meat usually remains). Dugan was chatty too, coming by several times throughout the meal to talk about the ingredients' provenance and preparation.

Following the bisque, Dugan announced a change from the previously announced menu (posted online at fishguy.com): instead of Kobe beef carpaccio, we'd be having big-eye tuna. "We chose a red wine specifically to go with the beef," someone in a party of six moaned (Wellfleet is permanently BYO). But the tuna carpaccio -- a large slice of fabulously fresh fish sprinkled with Parmesan and drizzled with a white truffle emulsion -- turned out to be red-wine friendly.

Next came what was probably the night's most nuanced offering: stuffed turbot with celeriac puree and fresh parsley broth, powerfully aromatic and savory. Desserts are whipped up off-site by Peter Yuen, a graduate of the French Pastry School and owner of the Uptown shops La Patisserie P and Sweet Passion. On this evening his creation was a wildflower-honey-nougat mousse cake with a pistachio sponge and apricot marmalade.

On Monday through Saturday the Fish Guy Market offers carryout soups, fish sandwiches, and lobster rolls for lunch. Dugan says he'd like this side of his business to continue operating on the q.t.: "I'm a fishmonger, not a sandwich maker. That being said, we make awesome sandwiches." (Customers are asked to phone in orders ahead of time.) And if you see something that looks especially tasty in one of the refrigerated cases, Dugan says, "Let us know, and if we don't have too many customers waiting, we'll cook it up for you right there." --David Hammond

For more on restaurants, see our blog the Food Chain.

Fruits de Mer

Twenty-five spots for seafood

Blue Water Grill
520 N. Dearborn | 312-777-1400

F 7.0 | S 7.1 | A 8.0 | $$$$ (7 reports)
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, SEAFOOD, JAPANESE | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT

Blue Water Grill, the Chicago offshoot of a Manhattan seafood restaurant, is fine; it's satisfactory. But there are certainly better fish in the sea. We went with low expectations (the buzz had been that the service was bad) and free gift cards, so we could hardly have been disappointed, and indeed we were not. We were a little nonplussed by the casual uniforms worn by the staff in the otherwise swanky place -- does the restaurant require all female servers to show their black bra straps? But our waitress was friendly and seemed pretty knowledgeable, and we were pleased with our food. Our group sampled some sushi, some excellent raw oysters, and asparagus soup and soft-shell crab specials; one obstinate soul (my husband, the seafood hater) had a steak. Everything was good, fresh, and artfully presented. Desserts were good as well -- though more focused on fruit than chocolate, which is not my preference. All in all, we liked it, but it just didn't move me or stand out in any way. Try it and you probably won't be disappointed. But will you want to come back for more? I don't. Emily K. Paster, Rater

Bob Chinn's Crab House
393 S. Milwaukee, Wheeling | 847-520-3633

$$$
SEAFOOD | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11:30

"It's pretty unique," says one Rater, "but not necessarily in a good way." This north-suburban fish house has perfected a wildly successful formula consisting of exquisitely fresh fish, a huge menu (including some nonfish items), and quick, efficient service. The ambience is loud and chaotic, but obviously plenty of people like it that way: the hungry hordes line up around zigzagged dividers for waits as long as two hours. The catch of the day is always a good option, as are the famed mai tais. Fresh fish is available for cooking at home, and the adjoining retail shop sells souvenirs and knickknacks. Laura Levy Shatkin

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.
700 E. Grand | 312-252-4867

F 8.2 | S 8.4 | A 8.8 | $$ (5 reports)
SEAFOOD, CAJUN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Paramount Pictures comes to Navy Pier, bringing along a lot of . . . shrimp. There are Dumb Luck Coconut Shrimp (with Cajun marmalade), Mama Blue's Southern Charmed Fried Shrimp (with coleslaw and fries), and Forrest's Shrimp Catch Net (steamed in beer and served with veggies). Shrimp-free salads, sandwiches, and smoothies are also available. The kid-friendly restaurant is done up like a bayou shrimp shack, with galvanized buckets of paper towels and seasonings on the picnic tables. A souvenir shop near the entrance sells "Run Forrest Run" ball caps and other Gumpian paraphernalia. Martha Bayne

Calumet Fisheries
3259 E. 95th | 773-933-9855

$
SEAFOOD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | CASH ONLY

In a 1998 Reader story, Calumet Fisheries' Hector Morales lamented the decline in business that came with the death of the steel industry on the southeast side. But the tiny shack at the foot of the 95th Street Bridge is still smoking its own chubs, trout, and salmon steaks, heads, and collars over oak logs. These creatures remain moist after smoking, having been brined overnight. The vulnerable constitution of shrimp is the best endorsement of this process, remaining juicy and intensely smoky -- though the monsters come dear at $19.95 a pound. Polyglot sailors still weigh in for fried catfish when they dock, and the fresh, crispy breaded aquatic life -- frog's legs, shrimp, scallops, and smelts -- are expressions of maritime rhapsody, like the sea spray that escapes the breaded crust of a juicy fried oyster. The dramatic location -- it's where Elwood jumped the drawbridge in the Bluesmobile -- is an ideal spot to clamber down to the river's edge with an order of deep-fried critters and watch ships chug by. Mike Sula

Cape Cod Room
140 E. Walton | 312-787-2200

$$$$
SEAFOOD | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE

Neither the menu nor the decor at this long-standing seafood restaurant has changed much since it opened in 1933. The rustic yet refined room inside the Drake Hotel still features red-checkered tablecloths, weather vanes, and stuffed fish. The menu includes standard appetizers like New England clam chowder, oysters Rockefeller, and raw oysters, along with the famous Bookbinder Red Snapper Soup served with a shot of sherry. Most fish dishes stick to classic preparations -- Dover sole meuniere, for example, is filleted tableside. Raters find the food steady but not particularly innovative, and extremely expensive. Service is always attentive and professional. Laura Levy Shatkin

Catch 35
35 W. Wacker | 312-346-3500

F 9.2 | S 9.0 | A 8.5 | $$$$ (8 reports)
SEAFOOD | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

The crowd is mostly business at this seafood restaurant nestled inside the Leo Burnett building, and the room is flashy in a late-80s way -- oceanscape mural, art deco fixtures, revolving piano bar. Dishes are prepared with an admirably light touch and often show an Asian influence: soft-shell crab comes with Szechuan glaze, Chilean sea bass with ginger-scallion sauce. The menu's huge -- there are three dozen seafood specials daily -- and Raters agree it's best experienced on an expense account. Laura Levy Shatkin

Cy's Crab House
3819 N. Ashland | 773-883-8900

$
SEAFOOD, MIDDLE EASTERN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Prices are extraordinarily low at this Lakeview seafood shack. Raters disagree about the food, but there seems to be a consensus about the service: it's lacking. The menu also features several Persian dishes -- lamb shank and a variety of marinated meat kebabs -- which are often a better deal than the fish. The front room has an open feel but not much warmth. Laura Levy Shatkin

Davis Street Fishmarket
501 Davis, Evanston | 847-869-3474

F 6.3 | S 6.9 | A 6.6 | $$$ (7 reports)
SEAFOOD | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Although it's undeniably popular, we found this casual Evanston seafood place uneven at best. The raw oysters were fine, and a delicately seasoned seafood-and-corn chowder was superb. The soft-shell crab (available seasonally) had a pleasing texture, but the poor creature died in vain -- drowned by garlic butter. Desserts were ample and edible, especially the pleasantly boozy bread and the key lime pie. The service was brisk and obliging (our request to have the classic rock turned down was cheerfully accommodated). Cliff Doerksen

Devon Seafood Grill
39 E. Chicago | 312-440-8660

$$$$
SEAFOOD, STEAKS/LOBSTER | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Though it isn't immediately evident, Devon Seafood Grill is one of seven variously named links in a national "upscale casual seafood concept" operated by Houlihan's Inc. All the available boilerplate suggests these are elegant spots serving only fresh, simply prepared, "regional" seafood to "educated" diners, but it won't take long for those to smell something fishy. The impulse to get destructively cute seems to have overtaken the menu designers at corporate, though maybe it says something about my own self-destructive tendencies that I had to order the "Char Crustedª Yellowfin Tuna," two nice chunks of raw tuna plastered with the venerable Chicago-born barbecue rub. It might as well have been Cheeto dust. Similar product placement abounds: Port Judith Calamari came with a miniature Tabascoª bottle, and chocolate cake is accompanied by a hazelnut Piroulineª. In defiance of the commitment to simple preparations, many of the dishes were treated with some thick, complicated, creamy sauce or similar distraction -- that Char Crusted tuna was driven over a cliff by a puddle of foyot sauce; seared scallops with a mushy lobsterrisotto fairly swam in a thick mustard concoction. Speaking more charitably than he's known for, one of my pals pointed out that it should be easy to forgive a restaurant a few typos on the menu -- in this case, "proscuitto" and "terrior." I'd argue that it's a warning for the educated to stay away. Mike Sula

Fulton's on the River
315 N. LaSalle | 312-822-0100

$$$$
SEAFOOD, STEAKS/LOBSTER | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: TILL 11 MONDAY-SATURDAY

The lower-level dining room at this Levy Restaurants endeavor is spacious and elegantly understated, with handsome decor and an adult-contemporary soundtrack. We were planning on sticking to seafood until we saw the platter of U.S. prime steaks, one of Fulton's specialties. Another is oysters: the restaurant typically offers 12, and there's a small sampler plate that features 6; our server left the menu so I could read descriptions of each briny little victim as I slurped away. Side dishes are a la carte, and the creamed corn with white cheddar we ordered to accompany our New York strip and whole Maine lobster was a revelation of rich sweetness. We moaned and murmured with pleasure over our main courses (the steak was served with a whole head of roasted garlic) but prudently stopped halfway to save room for dessert: key lime icebox pie with a graham cracker crust. Kathie Bergquist

Glenn's Diner
1820 W. Montrose | 773-506-1720

F 8.7 | S 8.3 | A 7.0 | $$ (6 reports)
AMERICAN, BREAKFAST, SEAFOOD | BREAKFAST: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; LUNCH: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | BYO

The back wall at Glenn's Diner is decorated with counter-to-ceiling boxes of sugared cereal. Glenn's serves breakfast all day -- all-you-can-eat cereal, pancakes made with red hots -- and classics like spaghetti and meatballs and country-fried steak for lunch and dinner, but the real attraction is the fish specials, 16 options a night, priced in the teens and excellently prepared. Fresh fish and cereal isn't a combination that makes sense, exactly, but that's part of the charm: eating here, you feel like you're getting a genuine expression of -- well, a peculiar something. A man who likes fish and cereal? The Glenn is Glenn Fahlstrom, a partner at Evanston's Davis Street Fishmarket. His scallops are toothsome and sweet, his mussels are juicy, and although the fish dishes aren't wildly creative, there's no faulting them. The walleye plate's weirder than most: coated with grated potato, fried and served with applesauce and sour cream, it's like a fishy potato pancake. The food's so good that it becomes confusing to eat it in front of a cereal display, but maybe that's the point: no matter the mussels, Glenn's will never get too big for its Apple Jacks. Nicholas Day

Half Shell
676 W. Diversey | 773-549-1773

F 6.4 | S 6.3 | A 6.3 | $$ (6 reports)
SEAFOOD | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: TILL 11 EVERY NIGHT | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASH ONLY

It's not easy to find a true dive in Lincoln Park, but this cash-only seafood restaurant fills the bill with a low ceiling, a long, crowded bar, and an entrance eight steps below street level. It seems like it's been there forever, serving consistently tasty crab legs, decent shrimp, and raw oysters on the you-know-what. Some prefer the fried fish offerings, served in generous portions with fries. Service has that friendly diner feel. Laura Levy Shatkin

Hugo's Frog Bar & Fish House
1024 N. Rush | 312-640-0999

F 7.9 | S 7.7 | A 6.3 | $$$ (6 reports)
SEAFOOD | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: TILL MIDNIGHT EVERY NIGHT

This sibling to neighboring Gibson's attracts a similarly moneyed crowd. The kitchen produces large portions of fresh seafood in unadulterated preparations: huge crab cakes, classic sides like baked potatoes and creamed spinach, fish dishes -- blackened grouper, grilled mahimahi, baked halibut with crabmeat stuffing -- and, of course, frog's legs. The decor takes a maritime theme and runs with it -- model ships stand on raised shelves, old photos of someone's sea voyage hang on the walls, and with the low ceilings and frequent crowds, you might as well be belowdecks. Laura Levy Shatkin

Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak and Stone Crab
60 E. Grand | 312-379-5637

F 7.4 | S 7.8 | A 7.1 | $$$$ (9 reports)
STEAKS/LOBSTER, SEAFOOD | LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

The decor is glitzy -- dark wood wainscoting, exposed wine racks, sharp linen-topped tables -- and the food is priced to match. Fresh stone crabs are flown in daily from the Gulf of Mexico, and orders range in size from seven medium claws to three jumbo claws. The menu is rounded out with two dozen entrees: steaks, chops, chicken, and seafood as well as a wide variety of sides like french-fried sweet potatoes and sauteed garlic spinach. Laura Levy Shatkin

King Crab
1816 N. Halsted | 312-280-8990

F 5.9 | S 7.3 | A 6.3 | $$ (6 reports)
SEAFOOD | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, MONDAY-THURSDAY TILL 11

The more upscale of Cy's crab houses, this Lincoln Park fish joint still has a comfortable neighborhood feel. Some Raters find it better suited to bar nibbling than sit-down dining: it gets loud and crowded but does have a great beer selection. The wide-ranging menu offers straightforwardly prepared, moderately priced crab cakes, clam chowder, peel-and-eat shrimp, and a variety of fish preparations, plus steaks and pasta. Laura Levy Shatkin

McCormick & Schmick's
41 E. Chestnut | 312-397-9500

$$$
SEAFOOD | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 1, MONDAY-THURSDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, SUNDAY TILL 11

This Oregon-based chain arrived in the Rush Street area in the late 90s. The ever-changing menu features mostly seafood -- flown in daily from around the world and ranging from the mundane (sole and whitefish) to the unusual (thresher shark) and including everything in between (Alaskan halibut stuffed with scallops and crab, California sea bass with papaya-mango salsa). Surf and turf and chicken are also available, and meals are accompanied by large helpings of sides like mashed potatoes and grilled vegetables. Raters compliment the desserts; opinions of the service vary widely, but in my experience it's been professional, knowledgeable, and attentive. The plentiful wine selection is heavily American. There's a second location at 1 E. Wacker. John Norris, Rater

Nick's Fishmarket
21 S. Clark | 312-621-0200

$$$$
SEAFOOD | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

The floor-to-ceiling windows at this venerable Loop fish house offer a great view of the plaza's fountain and Chagall mosaic. The menu sticks to classics: clam chowder, Dover sole meuniere, several salmon preparations. Prices are exorbitant -- one Rater noted that $48 seemed a bit high for her abalone -- but Nick's gets a lot of expense-account business. Laura Levy Shatkin

Nick's Grill
51 S. Clark | 312-621-0200

$$
SEAFOOD, AMERICAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11:30

On weekdays between 4 and 7 PM you'll find happy-hour specials at this suit-filled, glass-walled space; for example, bluepoint oysters at a buck apiece. Ahi tuna sashimi was ruby red and blissfully fresh, but the portion, about the size of a pack of gum, was lamentably small for the price. Lobster bisque was velvety, luxuriant, and perfectly complemented by a glass of medium-bodied Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc. For carnivores there are a number of options including "Tuscan sliders," a pair of wee filet mignon sandwiches served with fresh-cut fries. There's an impressive wine list, though the by-the-glass prices seem a little steep. Still, when my dining companion sent back a Malescot Saint Exupery, our server genially brought him a Saint Francis Old Vines zin much more to his liking. David Hammond

Oceanique
505 Main, Evanston | 847-864-3435

F 7.8 | S 8.0 | A 8.0 | $$$$ (7 reports)
SEAFOOD, FRENCH | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY

This French seafood restaurant continues to lead the Evanston pack with artistic and well-executed fare by chef-owner Mark Grosz, who worked for three years under Jean Banchet at Le Francais. A starter of grilled calamari and shrimp was exquisitely plated with an "ocean salad" of ginger, daikon, and avocado; rich butternut squash ravioli were accompanied by prosciutto and a nutty brown butter sauce with fresh sage and walnuts. Exotic fish such as the Australian barramundi give the menu an adventurous edge, while more common offerings like walleye and yellowfin tuna also make strong appearances. The wine list is wide-ranging and surprisingly moderately priced. Laura Levy Shatkin

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen
798 W. Algonquin, Arlington Heights | 847-228-9551

F 7.6 | S 7.6 | A 7.6 | $$$ (5 reports)
SEAFOOD, CAJUN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

This massive, 750-seat suburban seafood house has a theme park feel: multiple dining rooms on various levels, nautical signs and knickknacks, huge tanks of live lobsters, and a boisterous crowd. The menu features lot of Cajun specialties -- fried alligator, andouille and seafood gumbo, skewered grilled seafood with Cajun spices, and shrimp etouffee. More straightforward options include the fried shrimp, grilled swordfish, and raw oysters. Raters think many dishes are oversalted -- especially the clam chowder -- and the service hit-or-miss. Laura Levy Shatkin

Pier 5736
5736 N. Elston | 773-774-3663

F 8.9 | S 9.0 | A 6.5 | $$$ (8 reports)
SEAFOOD | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY

A modest family place where people smile at one another table to table, Pier 5736 has an exceptionally gregarious chef-owner and a number of money-saving offers: $5 martinis and half-priced wine on Tuesdays, five $10 entrees available on Tuesdays and Sundays, and specials chalked up every night of the week -- for instance, a blackened catfish dinner for $10.95. Lobster medallions were dressed in a white wine sauce with lemon butter and parsley; crab cakes, with a good balance of meat and breading, were accompanied by a flavorful remoulade. Every dish comes with a salad, grilled vegetables, and potatoes, all nicely done, and along with the full bar there are more than a dozen bottles of wine, most in the $20 range. For dessert we went with an airy chocolate mousse, which was comfortably priced at $4.50. As we were getting ready to go our cheerful server signed me up for a drawing to win a free meal -- like I said, you get seafood bargains here. David Hammond

Riva
700 E. Grand | 312-644-7482

F 8.1 | S 6.0 | A 7.2 | $$$ (5 reports)
SEAFOOD, STEAKS/LOBSTER | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Phil Stefani's upscale Navy Pier restaurant has a captive clientele of tourists and conventioneers and prices that capitalize on it. The menu is awash in seafood options, including lobster, a raw bar, and a wide variety of mesquite-grilled fish, but also features steak and game dishes -- even, on occasion, ostrich. (There's a 20 percent discount off the regular menu for Chicago Shakespeare Theater patrons.) The setting alone is almost worth the price: perched on the second floor near the east end of the pier, Riva is surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows affording spectacular lake and skyline views. Martha Bayne

Shaw's Crab House & Oyster Bar
21 E. Hubbard | 312-527-2722

F 7.0 | S 7.6 | A 6.7 | $$$ (15 reports)
SEAFOOD | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Shaw's gets lukewarm reviews from Raters, who seem to have a pretty good time despite inconsistent food and service and high prices. The classic 40s-style room, with tile floors and dark wood paneling, is inviting if somewhat cramped. The professional staff cordially serves daily specials; a global assortment of oysters on the half shell ranges from Prince Edward Island Malpeques to British Columbia Malspinas. The adjoining oyster bar is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner with a scaled-down menu, a more casual bar atmosphere, and live music on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays. Two private party rooms accommodate groups of up to 80. Laura Levy Shatkin

Southside Shrimp House
335 W. 31st | 312-567-0000

$
AMERICAN, SEAFOOD | LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | CASH ONLY

This Bridgeport shrimp shack meticulously weighs and deep-fries crustaceans in a thin breading that does nothing to obscure their sweet freshness. Its practice of offering a choice of breadings -- regular and the vaunted "southside" (i.e., seasoned) style -- doesn't seem to matter much; they're equally good and what you taste most is the shrimp, anyway. Frog's legs, hefty and juicy, can stand up to the bubbling baths, but the intriguing-in-principle deep-fried lobster deserves a little more love, a little less heat. Lake and ocean perch, walleye, cod, catfish, scallops, oysters, and excellent, pillowy hush puppies are all given the hot oil treatment. You can call in your order if it's big or if you're in a hurry. Mike Sula

Spring
2039 W. North | 773-395-7100

F 9.2 | S 9.0 | A 8.6 | $$$ (18 reports)
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, SEAFOOD | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY

The first restaurant venture of executive chef Shawn McClain, now the overlord of a mini empire that includes Green Zebra and Custom House, Spring's a half-decade old and still fresh. The concept's simple: clean, clever Asian-influenced seafood dishes. The flavor of the fish is usually kept pure; the corruption's confined to the splendid sides and sauces. The meaty monkfish, for example, might sit on top of pork belly, which it hints at in texture, and a rich sunchoke puree; golden tilefish, soft and plain, is livened up by peekytoe crab wontons and a grassy broth that's like a garden distilled. Potato "ravioli" test the structural stability of potatoes, but the single seared scallop that accompanies it is pristine and a pungent mushroom reduction is the perfect foil, like a gastronomic good cop/bad cop routine. Nicholas Day

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