The Great Outdoors

Twenty-seven destinations for open-air dining

A Tavola
2148 W. Chicago | 773-276-7567
F 8.5 | S 8.8 | A 7.8 | $$$ (17 REPORTS)
ITALIAN | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY

The dining room at A Tavola is dimly lit and intimate, with just ten tables. The menu’s equally tiny, enough so that strict vegetarians will have a difficult time making the most of it. I went with the halibut, lightly dusted with seasoned flour and panfried, accompanied by a lemon and caper sauce—very simple, but perfectly moist and light. Of the four appetizers on the menu, the combo of grilled portobello and sauteed oyster mushrooms stood out, its flavor surprisingly complex. There are also three small pasta dishes, including the best gnocchi I’ve ever had, swimming in sage butter and topped with fried sage leaves. But I’m one who believes there are few more wonderful things you can do to food than bake it with a crisp crust of Parmesan cheese, which is why the polenta, thick and gooey, may have been my favorite. There was one bite left at the end of the night, and I seriously thought about having it wrapped up. A brick terrace behind the building has six tables surrounded by trees and flowers. David Wilcox

Angel’s
5403 N. Clark | 773-271-1138
$
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN, AMERICAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: TILL 11 EVERY NIGHT

This cheerful diner is a perfect solution for those moments when nobody can agree on where to eat. The menu is split between traditional American salads and sandwiches and well-executed Mexican food. For brunch, huevos rancheros were second in comfort-food value only to the huge portion of chilaquiles,corn tortillas with scrambled eggs, cheese, and a tangy green sauce that I couldn’t stop eating from my friend’s plate. On other visits I’ve noticed that the steak burritos contain tender and not overly seasoned meat, and that the hefty Reubens are served with a bizarre Pepto-Bismol-pink version of Thousand Island dressing. They also serve beer, wine, and margaritas, especially welcome when you sit on the charming patio. Kathie Bergquist

Bad Dog Tavern
4535 N. Lincoln | 773-334-4040
F 7.3 | S 7.5 | A 7.9 | $$$ (18 REPORTS)
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | LUNCH: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, SUNDAY-FRIDAY TILL 2

The global-fusion-meets-contemporary- American menu at this sleek spot is several cuts above bar food. An order of tempura- style green beans comes with a lime-ginger-soy dipping sauce. There are pizzas with classic toppings, but for a late-night snack the sandwiches and salads are more interesting: spinach is tossed with juicy mandarin oranges and chow mein noodles in a ginger vinaigrette, while blackened salmon comes on a crusty baguette with pickled red onion, bitter greens, and cucumber-dill mayo. Entrees include chicken and feta in a light white wine sauce over a bed of spinach and tequila-and-tamarind-glazed ribs served with macaroni and cheese and black beans. The dozen choices on tap include Strongbow cider and De Koninck Belgian ale; the wine list is limited. There’s a full garden patio in the summer. Laura Levy Shatkin

Bistro Campagne
4518 N. Lincoln | 773-271-6100
F 8.4 | S 7.9 | A 8.1 | $$$ (31 REPORTS)
FRENCH | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | SMOKE FREE

There’s nothing groundbreaking here, but Bistro Campagne remains a reliable choice for classic French fare. The kitchen places a premium on organic ingredients; even the wine list has several bottles from sustainably farmed vineyards. The menu offers bistro standards such as French onion soup and mussels; entrees include steak frites and rotating preparations of lamb and duck. Escargots, delivered spitting hot, are prepared with a garlic-Pernod butter and a liberal dusting of bread crumbs for a sort of “snails casino” effect. Roast chicken, crispy on the outside and juicy within, was served over a bed of rich mushroom ragout and topped with a crazy blossom of fried onion. For dessert there’s a creamy creme brulee, pot au chocolat, house-made ice cream and sorbet, or perhaps a seasonal tart. The cozy, Prairie-inflected dining rooms are comfortable and inviting, but in the summer the lush country garden, tucked away from Lincoln Avenue traffic behind a sturdy wooden fence, has always been the place to be. Note the past tense: currently under construction is an extension to the restaurant that will temporarily cut into its outdoor seating. Management says there are plans to replace it with tent seating for about 40. Martha Bayne

Boka
1729 N. Halsted | 312-337-6070
F 9.3 | A 8.4 | S 8.8 | $$$ (23 REPORTS)
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

This trendy restaurant has a front lounge area that doubles as an extra dining room on busy nights; it’s separated from the main room by a long, frequently packed bar. But the ambitious menu by chef Giuseppe Scurato (Postrio, Spago, MK) features unpretentious and nicely executed small and large plates in addition to a raw bar. A pan-fried soft-shell crab comes with a caramelized corn blini; Alaskan halibut with pea risotto and seasonal veggies—asparagus tips, black trumpet mushrooms, and blond morels in a veal jus. About 20 wines are poured by the glass and more than 100 are available by the bottle. The large patio is divided between open-air and covered seating, the latter with its own bar. Laura Levy Shatkin

Chief O’Neill’s
3471 N. Elston | 773-583-3066
F 7.6 | S 7.0 | A 8.3 | $ (8 REPORTS)
ENGLISH/IRISH/SCOTTISH | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Irish musicians Brendan and Siobhan McKinney—he plays bagpipes and flute, she plays flute and pennywhistle—named this northwest-side pub after Francis O’Neill, Chicago’s first Irish police chief (and a champion of Irish music himself—at the turn of the century O’Neill was largely responsible for keeping traditional Irish music alive, collecting thousands of songs and getting them committed to paper), and they carry on his efforts to bring fine traditional Irish music to Chicago. Bands play on Friday and Saturday nights, and the first Sunday afternoon of the month there’s traditional Irish music. The entire bar—chairs, tables, bar fittings—and most of the staff was imported from Ireland, and the three cooks in the kitchen dish up traditional fare that includes Harp-battered onion strips, Galway Bay mussels, and cheddar cheese soup made with Guinness. There’s also fish-and-chips, grilled Irish sausage, bangers and mash, and a creamy chicken and mushroom potpie. It’s anything but light dining, but perfect for washing down with a black and tan. The huge beer garden seats 200. Laura Levy Shatkin

Coco Pazzo Cafe
636 N. Saint Clair | 312-664-2777
F 7.8 | S 6.9 | A 7.4 | $$$ (7 REPORTS)
ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Formerly Il Toscanaccio, renamed after its River North sibling, this Streeterville spot serves quality Tuscan dishes in a space decorated with warm wall murals and bursting floral arrangements. It’s so inviting you won’t even notice you’re dining in a Red Roof Inn. The locale is perfect for lunching shoppers, who come for the upscale panini (grilled chicken, smoked salmon, grilled vegetable, or prosciutto). At dinnertime Mag Mile workers enjoy heartier fare such as gnocchi with tomato and basil and, in season, caciucco,a seafood stew. In summer the action spills out onto a lively sidewalk cafe. Laura Levy Shatkin

Corosh
1072 N. Milwaukee | 773-235-0600
F 6.8 | S 8.8 | A 8.4 | $$ (5 REPORTS)
ITALIAN, EUROPEAN | LUNCH: MONDAYSATURDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 2, OTHER NIGHTS TILL MIDNIGHT

On a Sunday night the Corosh courtyard was a great place to be, nicely decorated and hidden away from the Milwaukee Avenue noise. Our waiter might have annoyed people who have an underdeveloped sense of humor, but as far as we were concerned he was great. We quickly settled on the garlic cream sauce mussels and prosciutto with melon as starters and the seafood risotto and lobster ravioli as entrees. The quality of the ingredients was very good (prosciutto without a lot of grease, very good pesto sauce with the ravioli). The only downside: the bread was pretty average, and a place of this caliber should not serve prepacked butter. Torbjörn Törnqvist, Rater

De Cero
814 W. Randolph | 312-455-8114
F 8.3 | S 7.0 | A 6.8 | $$$ (8 REPORTS)
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN | LUNCH: MONDAYFRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

De Cero means means “from scratch,” and under executive chef Jill Barron (Sushi Wabi) the food here—fresh coastal Mexican cuisine—is made with attention to detail. Plates of soft-shell tacos ($2.50-$4.50 apiece) with fillings like ahi tuna and mango, grilled marlin, and shredded chicken—fly from the exposed kitchen at a dizzying pace. They’re unsauced, but the $6 trio of homemade salsas—verde, picante, and a chunky mix of pickled jalapenos and vegetables— complement them well. Entrees include grilled chicken mole, shrimp fajitas, grilled ahi tuna, carne asada, and a 12-ounce pork chop. The margaritas and daiquiris blended with herbs—combinations include strawberry and mint, raspberry and basil, and peach and chamomile—are refreshing and not too sweet, but they don’t come close to the superlative house margarita with freshsqueezed lime juice and homemade sour mix. A city construction project has delayed the opening of their outdoor seating, but it should be up and running any day now. Laura Levy Shatkin

Feast Restaurant + Bar
1616 N. Damen | 773-772-7100
F 7.9 | A 6.5 | S 7.5 | $$ (22 REPORTS)
GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | LUNCH: MONDAYFRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Debra Sharpe’s eclectic menu at this popular Wicker Park spot consistently hits the bull’s-eye. For starters there are spicy crab cakes with chipotle mayonnaise or a coconut curry chicken quesadilla with a tropical fruit salsa. Main courses are hearty and satisfying: marinated skirt steak with chimichurri and garlic mashed potatoes, chicken breast stuffed with herbed goat cheese and served with potato gnocchi, spinach, and cherry tomatoes. The bread assortment alone is almost worth the trip; it includes savory cheddar biscuits and chipotle bread sticks served in a terracotta pot. In warm weather the patio is inviting. Laura Levy Shatkin

Irazu
1865 N. Milwaukee | 773-252-5687
F 7.7 | S 7.2 | A 5.6 | $ (13 REPORTS)
LATIN AMERICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: MONDAYSATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | CASH ONLY | BYO

Located just up the road from Damen, North, and Milwaukee, this Costa Rican restaurant provides a refreshing alternative to that intersection’s traffic nightmares and high prices. Tiny and always crowded, it serves food that’s cheap, tasty, and plentiful. Standouts are the burritos (big enough to feed two) with optional mushrooms and hot peppers, and interesting nonalcoholic drinks like the tart, refreshing tamarind shake. Night owls be forewarned—Irazu closes at 9 PM. There are a few plastic tables in front. Laura Levy Shatkin

Kuma’s Corner
2900 W. Belmont | 773-604-8769
$$
AMERICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, MONDAY-FRIDAY TILL 2, SUNDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Under chef Scott Finger the food at this quirky, unaffected corner bistro is no sideshow. An occasional Kobe-style beef burger special, rich and meltingly tender, is a steal at $15; Kobe-style sliders are offered every day. Salads and dishes like fish tacos and fries heaped with barbecued pork and Jack cheese round out the small plates; big plates and sandwiches include free-form portobello ravioli, linguine with mussels, a New York strip, and the Andoucheesie—andouille sausage with bacon, sharp cheddar, caramelized onions, and roasted red peppers served on a French roll. A back patio has seating for about 40. Peter Tyksinski

Letizia’s Natural Bakery
2144 W. Division | 773-342-1011
F 7.7 | S 6.3 | A 7.3 | $ (8 REPORTS)
ITALIAN, PIZZA | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: TILL 11 EVERY NIGHT

Formerly a history teacher in Rome, Letizia Sorano opened her bakery and coffee shop in November 1998, shortly after she moved to the States. The “natural” in the name means no bleached flours, hydrogenated oils, or artificial colors or flavors; within these restrictions she regularly makes pies, cookies, biscotti, cheesecakes, and truffles (layers of sponge cake and ganache in flavors like raspberry and white chocolate). Also on the menu are 20 kinds of panini and pizza rustica with toppings including pesto, prosciutto, and kalamata olives. In summer there’s outdoor seating on the sidewalk. Holly Greenhagen

Lula Cafe
2537 N. Kedzie | 773-489-9554
F 8.4 | S 7.4 | A 7.8 | $ (39 REPORTS)
GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC, BREAKFAST | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY, MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | CLOSED TUESDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | SMOKE FREE

At this point I’ve taken dozens of people to Lula Cafe, and I don’t say this lightly: it may be the best neighborhood restaurant in Chicago. One side of the menu is dedicated to cheap, surprising, delicious entrees in the $6-$12 range, like the Moroccan tagine: warm cinnamony chickpea stew with chunks of sweet potato over couscous, with fresh greens strewn on top. The Tineka sandwich is—of all things—a spicy peanut butter sandwich with cukes and red onion and lots of other veggies, plus something they call “Indonesian sweet soy sauce.” There’s beet bruschetta, and peanut sesame noodles, and a great roast turkey sandwich. Appetizers include a shiitake-spinach quesadilla and vegetarian maki. Then there’s a more expensive menu ($12-$24), as if the owners just thought, “What the hell, this’ll be fun too.” These items change constantly but have included a scallops appetizer that makes vegetarians very sad to be vegetarians, a roast leg of lamb with sherry-braised mission figs and cippolini onions, and an ocean trout served with brandade-stuffed peppers. I brought a friend who’s a professional chef in New York, and he stuck around for hours to order nearly everything on the menu. And then we came back the next night. Ira Glass

Meritage Cafe and Wine Bar
2118 N. Damen | 773-235-6434
F 8.6 | S 8.5 | A 8.0 | $$$ (12 REPORTS)
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Chef Troy Graves’s fusion creations are elegant. His savory seared duck breast, for example, is accompanied by a wild leek and Thai chile spring roll and a tangerine-lemongrass reduction; seared foie gras is paired with braised oxtail, buttermilk biscuits, and a green peppercorn poivrade. Brunch offerings are equally creative: there’s a curried Belgian waffle with toasted hazelnuts and chocolate ganache; eggs Benedict come with lobster hollandaise or smoked bay scallops; omelets include one with lobster, avocado, jalapenos, and cream cheese. For dessert there’s a flight of ice creams and sorbets or a peppered peach crumble with tarragon ice cream. The room is small and intimate; there’s also an outdoor dining garden. Laura Levy Shatkin

Moody’s Pub
5910 N. Broadway | 773-275-2696
F 6.6 | S 6.8 | A 7.6 | $ (10 REPORTS)
AMERICAN, BURGERS | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 2, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 1 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASH ONLY

A good place to grab a burger and beer for lunch, dinner, or a late-night snack, even on Sundays. The menu is small, its centerpiece a burger that’s been called the best in town. Also available are fries, steak and chicken breast sandwiches, a dinner salad, and fried perch, shrimp, and chicken. The beer selection is limited, but the margaritas and sangria pitcher special are outstanding. In summer the large garden is the place to sit; in winter the two fireplaces keep it cozy, if smoky, inside. Ellen Joy, Rater

Las Palmas
1835 W. North | 773-289-4991
F 8.6 | S 8.6 | A 7.7 | $ (7 REPORTS)
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH

Three of the Las Palmas chain’s four locations serve standard Americanized Mexican fare made to soak up pitchers of sweet margaritas, but this branch is different. The sophisticated menu includes appetizers like empanadas potasinas(golden pastries stuffed with Chihuahua cheese and epazote); vuelva a la vida(tender marinated octopus, squid, and shrimp in seasoned lime juice, served in a martini glass); and guacamole prepared tableside. The steak taco entree was smoky and good, served with queso blanco and chipotle jam, and the Enchiladas Las Palmas were stuffed with freshly sauteed button mushrooms. A jumbo margarita easily carried me through my meal. Service was a bit rushed, but a strolling guitarist and pleasant weather on the charming back patio more than made up for the minor annoyance. Kathie Bergquist

Quartino
626 N. State | 312-698-5000
F 8.2 | S 7.0 | A 6.0 | $$ (6 REPORTS) ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: TILL 1 EVERY NIGHT

Quartino takes its cue from Italy’s enoteche,wine bars that serve small plates of everything from antipasti to beef tenderloin. Chef John Coletta occasionally puts his own subtle spin on classic recipes but stays true to the main tenets of Italian cuisine: the best ingredients, simply prepared. Plates of thinly sliced sopressata, rich duck prosciutto, and soft, pungent mortadella (the only salumi not cured in-house) come with garnishes of giardinera, jammy mostarda (candied fruit with a touch of mustard seed), and a sweet-and-sour cucumber sauce. Fried polenta sticks, served with a red pepper sauce, are perfectly prepared: crisp on the outside and soft and creamy inside. Homemade gnocchi didn’t quite achieve pillowy transcendence, but a peppery arugula pesto invited forgiveness. The only complaint about a grilled Nutella panino for dessert was that it didn’t arrive oozing hot; profiteroles with vanilla gelato and chocolate sauce made for an elegant if messy ending. Wines—many offered in the U.S. here exclusively—are available by the quartino(quarter liter), half liter, and carafe, and there are also plenty of options by the bottle. Heather Kenny

Resi’s Bierstube
2034 W. Irving Park | 773-472-1749
F 7.1 | S 7.0 | A 6.3 | $$ (6 REPORTS)
GERMAN/AUSTRIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Regulars like this German beer parlor for the cheap, filling dinners—classics like schnitzel or sausages and sauerkraut plus two side dishes can be had for $10.50. But the real draw is the beer. Thirty-six years ago manager Richard Stober’s father, Herbert, was the first bar owner in town to serve weiss beer, and the selection has only grown since then. Currently they carry 60 bottled beers and 16 on tap. The charming tree-lined outdoor patio is lantern lit, with picnic tables for seating, and the atmosphere is generally mellow and cheerful. Laura Levy Shatkin

Rockwell’s Neighborhood Grill
4632 N. Rockwell | 773-509-1871
$
AMERICAN, MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | SMOKE FREE

The game’s on TV at this friendly neighborhood tavern and restaurant, a couple of senior women are having dinner by the window, and a dad is enjoying a beer and a few minutes’ peace while junior tends to his grilled cheese sandwich. The menu won’t surprise anyone—burgers, a smoked turkey club, a French dip sandwich, Caesar salad, burritos, fajitas, and a few higher-end items like steak and salmon—but the food is fresh and flavorful. A cup of the chicken-sausage gumbo was hot, savory, and chock-full of chicken and sausage; the hand-cut fries were the real thing, tasting of good potatoes rather than deep-fryer fat. We ordered the ten-ounce sirloin rare and it actually came that way, which is rare indeed. Portions were enormous, the coffee delicious, the service friendly and conscientious. Entree prices range between $7.50 for the burger to $17 for a strip steak special. The outdoor seating area on Eastwood looks out on a nice residential street with a few handsome bungalows. Michael Lenehan

Rose Angelis
1314 W. Wrightwood | 773-296-0081
F 8.3 | S 7.9 | A 7.7 | $$ (23 REPORTS)
ITALIAN | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

This Lincoln Park storefront is a perennial Rater favorite. The three adjoining rooms feel intimate even when they’re crowded, and the reasonably priced entrees are so large that doggie bags are the norm. The bruschetta is a rustic version with huge chunks of tomato; pizzas have a nice thin crust, and most entrees are classic pasta dishes like linguine with seafood in tomato sauce and a massive eggplant parmigiana in a sweet red sauce. More ambitious are the delicate duck-filled tortelloni (served with spinach, tomato, and melted mozzarella in a cognac reduction) and a somewhat bland portobello ripiene (with layers of mushrooms, spinach, and grilled chicken, all covered in balsamic cream sauce). Rose Angelis just recently added to its outdoor seating; in a few weeks there will be both covered and uncovered tables among the greenery. Laura Levy Shatkin

Scylla
1952 N. Damen | 773-227-2995
F 9.4 | S 8.3 | A 8.6 | $$$ (7 REPORTS)
MEDITERRANEAN, EUROPEAN | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY

Chef Stephanie Izard, a vet of Spring and La Tache, executes the ambitious menu here with expertise. Veal cheeks with diver scallops made an impressive first course; the grilled baby octopus salad was full of peppery arugula and mint leaves, and green garlic soup epitomized spring. Izard serves whatever fish is fresh; one evening it was Hawaiian ono, which came to the table topped with a salty brandade (whipped potato-and-salt-cod spread) and surrounded by a medley of colors, flavors, and textures: slightly charred roasted brussels sprouts, earthy wild mushrooms, tart dried cherries, and crunchy almonds. The skate wing was encrusted in crispy dried potato flakes, marked with a zigzag of spicy tomato aioli, and set on a big pile of charred radicchio, seared calamari, grape tomatoes, capers, and a few too many garbanzo beans. Portions are ample and priced accordingly—most entrees cost in the low-to-mid-20s. Laura Levy Shatkin

Tagine
4749 N. Rockwell | 773-989-4340
$$
MOROCCAN | LUNCH: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | BYO

If the food at this Ravenswood storefront still seems slow coming out of the kitchen, understand that Moroccan food isslow food, especially when prepared in the namesake tagine,a clay cooking vessel. Certain things on the menu aren’t all that intriguing: briwats(phyllo puffs filled with chicken, vegetables, or seafood) didn’t do it for me, and the crevette pil pila(marinated shrimp in tomato sauce) were too tiny to appreciate. On the other hand, harira soup was rich and tomatoey, and the lentil soup was also good. Entrees, mostly tagines (stews named after the cooking vessel) or couscous plates, are much more interesting. Owing to their lengthy cooking times the meats in the tagines are consistently tender, but they’re best ordered with sides of the very fine, fluffy couscous, especially the Rabat tagine, a circle of meatballs surrounding an egg poached in a rich tomato gravy. Sultan’s tagine and the Kasbah tagine are braised lamb shanks served with peas and artichokes or prunes, hard-boiled eggs, and almonds respectively. Couscous dishes themselves are huge and comforting. If you run low on sauce just ask for more. The restaurant has just added outdoor seating for about 20. Mike Sula

Tapas Barcelona
1615 Chicago, Evanston | 847-866-9900
F 8.5 | S 7.6 | A 7.6 | $$ (5 REPORTS)
TAPAS/SPANISH | LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

By 6 PM on a Sunday evening, every table on the patio of this Evanston restaurant was full, and good cheer prevailed as a table full of professors from Northwestern mingled with assorted locals and a good number of what seemed to be honest-to- God Spaniards. This isn’t the place for the unexpected or unusual, but the traditional is sometimes executed very well. The Spanish omelet, for instance, was near perfect; bacon-wrapped dates sitting in a pool of bell pepper sauce had my companion practically drooling. Other options weren’t so good. Grilled scallops were thin, way too garlicky, and slightly bitter, and the saffron sauce didn’t taste like saffron. Duck sausage was better, rich and satisfying, but the side of mushroom ragu was oddly bereft of mushrooms. And stay away from the thin, watery sangria. Fortunately, there’s a full list of specialty cocktails, not to mention a decent beer and wine menu. Chip Dudley

Timo
464 N. Halsted | 312-226-4300
$$$
ITALIAN | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

“Is this the same restaurant?” three different befuddled guests asked the host at Timo the night I was there, just a few weeks after the restaurant formerly known as Thyme reopened in its current incarnation. Apart from new Chihuly-like light fixtures, the interior is unchanged—there’s the same open-air kitchen and grey-and-brown color scheme. But chef John Bubala has dubbed his place with the Italian word for “thyme” and moved from a French-Mediterranean menu to one influenced by northern Italian cuisine. Such transformations can be risky, with the final result neither fish nor fowl, but in this case Bubala has successfully adapted the cuisine to his seasonally changing contemporary cooking. You probably won’t ever find ravioli filled with turkey and pancetta at a traditional trattoria, but maybe you should: the smoky taste of the pancetta joined with the earthiness of the porcini cream sauce to create a woodsy flavor. Bubala is talented at balancing: a tender organic pork shank came with a balsamic- fig relish, and the accompanying sage-infused polenta soft-pedaled the herb, which can taste medicinal if overused. I’m not a huge fan of risotto, but here braised leeks gave one with pear, Gorgonzola, and artichoke an appreciable crunch. The outdoor patio seats 150. Heather Kenny

Twisted Spoke
501 N. Ogden | 312-666-1500
F 7.1 | S 7.3 | A 7.1 | $ (9 REPORTS)
AMERICAN, BURGERS | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 2, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 1 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

“Eat, Drink, Ride” is the motto at this casual joint at the corner of Grand and Ogden, but most people are just eating and drinking. The place is decorated to look like a biker hangout, with several hogs half-buried nose down in the dirt outside, a grimly industrial metal interior, and a rust-covered facade. The menu offers bar munchies, burgers, and a dozen or so huge sandwiches—barbecued chicken, pork butt, even a grilled portobello—all of which are served with equally huge handfuls of crispy fries. Saturday nights after midnight the Spoke offers “Smut ’n’ Eggs”—breakfast and old stag movies. There’s a roof deck with seating for 60. Laura Levy Shatkin

Va Pensiero
1566 Oak, Evanston | 847-475-7779
F 8.6 | S 8.0 | A 7.3 | $$$ (9 REPORTS)
ITALIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Rejecting the planned bustle and cacophony of most Italian eateries, Va Pensiero presents a serene (some say romantic) setting for a beautiful meal: diners relax in comparative privacy amid dimly lit greenery. Whether serving basics (vegetable minestrone soup, pork tenderloin) or variations on a theme (penne tossed with shredded rabbit ragout, jumbo sea scallops with a watercress-fennel slaw), executive chef Eric Hammond prepares and presents his dishes with a devotion to style. Most flavor combinations work extremely well, such as a pasta special of fusilli with asparagus and exotic mushrooms served in a light lemon, rosemary, and goat cheese sauce. Desserts are just as satisfying, if less innovative. The wine list is a nice one of mostly moderately priced imported selections. Paul Schoenwetter, Rater

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