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French bar from the people behind LM; the chef is Bradford Phillips.

Our Review

What do you call a French dip sandwich in France? Rien! The iconic shaved-meat sandwich served au jus on a baguette is an American invention, but that hasn't stopped chef Bradford Phillips from putting one on the menu at this "neighborhood French bar" from the folks who brought you LM. As it goes, that's about the only non-Frenchy thing to eat at this snug corner spot, with big windows that open on a wide sidewalk cafe but do little to abate the din from the crowd and incongruous soundtrack (Stevie Ray Vaughan?). There's a quiche, a plat, a poisson du jour, a cheese plate, a charcuterie plate, a couple salads, and a couple standard entrees. The croque monsieur (upgradeable to a madame) is gooey, a bowl of fresh mussels plump and garlicky, and the grilled pork belly wonderfully crispy and luscious, bedded on a green salad, with thick-cut frites that have a white cloudy interior and crackly golden armor. For a French bar there's a limited number of wines by the bottle, but there's a more varied selection of craft beers and some appropriately French concoctions like pastis and Kir royales. (Stick to those. The barkeeps apparently don't realize that shaking a Sazerac turns it into a slushy atrocity.) In all, the food and spirits at Troquet seem just about good as they need to be to attract a healthy neighborhood crowd—pretty much everybody there seems like they want to be.

Mike Sula

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