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Chef Chris Pandel tends to pig trotters

Chef Chris Pandel tends to pig trotters

Eric Futran

Bucktown barstaurant with an eclectic contemporary menu featuring Chris Pandel's snout-to-tail cooking.

Our Review

The seasonal menu at chef Chris Pandel's beercentric the Bristol promises interesting variety at accessible prices, including a perfect pairing of grilled mackerel and romaine in the Caesar, and "Scotch olives," a mutation of a Scotch egg and Italian olives all'Ascolana (fat green olives stuffed with pork and veal and deep-fried). Challenges are even more evident on the daily chalkboard menu, where snout-to-tail items beyond pork belly or the increasingly common headcheese put the Bristol in the growing class of restaurants catering to the public's curiosity about the fifth quarter and other uncommon proteins. It's indicative of Pandel's guts that he's unafraid to leave the foot on a roasted half chicken; a supper-club-style relish plate special with potted salmon and beer cheese featured beets with a sprinkling of grated bottarga, the delicious, famously funky cured roe of a mullet. If these dishes still sound fearsome, there's plenty here to feed the timid—duck-fat fries, a burger—and the beer list is deep and fascinating, with lots of large-format bottles and unusual choices. See the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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