Save to foursquare
Contemporary American restaurant and lounge in the lower level of a former bank. Open till "late."

Our Review

The designers of this space, housed belowdecks on the busy corner of Division and Ashland, have taken advantage of the stolid charms of the former MB Financial Bank and transformed it into something like a glowing pharaoh's crypt, with a few incongruous distractions such as flat-screen TVs and framed color photographs depicting rednecks mowing lawns or firing shotguns at off-camera quarry. Ostensibly those are meant to evoke the "midwestern" sensibility of the menu, though they actually make me imagine I'm viewing a survivalist's family photo album in a fallout shelter. And I'm not sure what's particularly midwestern about a beer-braised rabbit special with giardiniera, such a ballsy balancing act of gaminess and acidity that I was crestfallen to find it gone on my return. In addition to pedestrian bar food such as chicken wings, hand-cut fries, and admittedly nice, creamy deviled eggs gussied up with bacon powder, there are plenty of predictable inclusions—a burger, of course, roasted chicken breast, mac 'n' cheese. Maybe that's all an attempt to appeal to too broad a swath of so-called midwesterners. We're a diverse group, after all, and it broadcasts one of the most aggravating and libelous cliches about us: excepting the occasional shotgun blast, we're sort of safe and boring. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

Features: , , , , , ,

Price: $$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

Bar Details

Past Events

See all past events at The Bedford »

Related Stories

  • The Bedford plays it safe

    The Bedford plays it safe

    Even the talents of chef Mark Steuer are overshadowed by its glowing bank-vault setting
    • Jun 9, 2011

Reviews/comments
4.2 out of 5

Showing 1-1 of 1

Add a review

 
Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-1 of 1

Add a review


Roll over stars and click to rate.

Search for…

Map

Nearby