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Takeaway-only purveyor of "little hotties," Korean-Japanese chicken wings.

Our Review

This little Pilsen storefront is the spawn of the Albany Park Chinese-Korean restaurant Great Sea, home of the danger­ously habit-forming chicken wings known as "hot and saucys." I’ve long believed these chicken lollipops—frenched, battered, deep-fried, and slathered with a sweet, dark, oily chile sauce—could make for a profitable franchise all by themselves. So, apparently, did daughter of the house Karen Lim, whose menu is focused on magnetizing "hotties," as she calls them. But her wings aren’t exact replicas of her parents’ masterworks. For one, they aren’t frenched, which makes them messier and more difficult to eat. For another, at Great Sea the radius and ulna segments of the wing are discarded, but not here. Lim admitted to me that these measures save her thousands of dollars in labor, and if that’s what it takes for her to make it, I don’t mind so much. Sauces are available in mild, medium, and hot, and I didn’t like it that the heat at the highest level is weaker than the default sauce at the mothership. Still, this is progress. BYO.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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