Tucked in next to an adult bookstore, Swirl seems to be taking cues from its neighbor's tactics, teasing with promises but rarely delivering satisfaction. The long, dim room is handsomely outfitted with low banquettes and sofas in tasteful neutrals; a small stage at the rear showcases live music Friday and Saturday nights. Wines by the glass are extensive but hit or miss, and in one instance apparently scant hours from vinegar. The menu covers perhaps a dozen hot and cold global-fusion appetizers (think watermelon-tuna tartare and panko-crusted chipotle crab cakes) and a selection of "pizettes," little pizzas, but even something as simple as a dish of mixed olives fell short. As for the pizza--topped with an intriguing blend of caramelized pears and onions, garlic aioli, and fontina and mozzarella cheese--there's not much to say, as by the time we signaled for the check it still hadn't materialized.
Price: $$
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