David Richards doesnt stand on ceremony. No maitre d or hostess greets you when you walk in the door of his cozy Fullerton Avenue storefront. Servers wear jeans. But the refined, French-inflected food has more than enough power to carry the show. The menu changes frequently, but the star of the a la carte section remains the famed foie gras burger, a $17 fistful of Kobe beef topped with truffled mayonnaise and a thick slab of paté (it's $10 on Wednesdays). There's a nightly three-course prix fixe menu option--your picks from anything on the menu for $29; the prix fixe Sunday brunch is $14. On my last visit our meal started off with a refreshing tomato-saffron fondant evocative of a spoon-friendly Bloody Mary. Pan-roasted blue-nosed grouper over rosemary-potato hash was outstanding, as was the piping hot duo of juicy duck breast and complex rabbit sausage--served with a seductively smoky white bean cassoulet--that followed. "Sweets" included a deliciously stinky Camembert with a fig-and-almond cookie, a mango sorbet, and a one-two punch of chocolate ice cream and warm molten chocolate cake.
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