Housed in a windowless concrete building kitty-corner from the Chicago Avenue Blue Line stop, Sushi X is a surprisingly successful example of restaurant minimalism, goth variety. Run by the folks behind Randolph Street's Sushi Wabi, the raw space features about a dozen tables and is decorated mainly by candles and billowing gauze curtains, with anime and vintage films projected against one white wall. The menu features about three dozen maki, ranging from basics like hamachi and smoked salmon to fanciful overstuffed creations like the Red Dragon, a rich and spicy combination of shrimp tempura, sriracha, jalapeño, mayo, roe, spicy tuna, and eel sauce. There's no nigiri or sashimi, and no liquor license either, but a few hot dishes--panko-crusted chicken, veggie tempura--round out the sushi offerings. Sushi-X also does a booming takeout and delivery business, serving an area bounded by Congress, North, Western, and Lake Michigan.
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