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New larger, sleeker location of the Argyle Street favorite for smoked duck and other Chinese delicacies.

Our Review

Kelly and Laura Cheng’s gentle updating of Sun Wah BBQ, their parents’ venerable but dingy 23-year-old Hong Kong-style barbecue restaurant on Argyle Street, had been under way for some time when they shut their doors last fall and reopened around the corner in this vastly expanded space. At certain hours the new joint makes you wonder how they ever accommodated so many devotees at the first one, and two months in, the family still seems to be catching up to the crowds. But fundamentally, much about the place remains the same, including the front window’s insouciantly presented panoply of hanging barbecued ducks, chicken, cuttlefish, and pork slabs alongside tubs of glistening offal. A slightly revised but still extensive menu is supplemented by a seemingly permanent group of specials such as lotus root with house-cured bacon and lamb stew casserole. And certain innovations—like the dramatic Peking duck dinner that for $32 feeds three or four—seem destined to join the pantheon of old favorites like panfried noodles and delicate, gingery steamed Dover sole. Sun Wah’s ultimate appeal has always been in its excellent value—even a $5.75 small order of Singapore noodles is lunch and dinner—and despite a slight increase in prices across the board, it boasts a consistency and variety that never fail to inspire overordering.

Mike Sula

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