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Neapolitan-style pizza fired in a tiled oven brought over from Italy.

Our Review

True Neapolitan pizza is just flour, water, yeast, salt, and a few spare toppings baked in an oven so hot it could almost forge steel, up to 1,200 degrees. To build his oven, which owner Jonathan Goldsmith matter-of-factly says is "probably the best in America," he packed a shipping container in Naples with three types of sand, three types of brick, and a slab of volcanic stone—13,000 pounds total—then flew three third- and fourth-generation Neapolitan oven builders over to put it together (it took them ten days). The result, which stands in the corner, tiled and shimmering with heat, turns out the real thing: pizza with a pliable, not crackerlike, crust with blackened blisters, their tops moist with fresh mozzarella and a few classic toppings (margherita, quattro formagi) and their rims puffy. Antipasti like zucchine alla scapece and insalata di mare are also splendid.

Nicholas Day

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