The sign in the window of this storefront on Cicero near Belmont advertises "tortillas hecho a mano," handmade tortillas, but inside you'll find much more than that. Chef-owner Carlos Tello is a specialist in moles, and his mother-in-law, Clementina Flores Bahena (mother of Geno), also has a hand in them here. On my first visit I savored four: a dark, chocolaty negro, a just slightly hot rojo, the fruit-based manchamanteles, and a mild mole verde made with pumpkin seeds. Tello knows his way around a spice rack: all deliver a quick burn with subtle lightness, the mole verde in particular sparkling with clean flavors. Sopecitos, small masa cups stuffed with moist chicken in mole roja, were magnificently simple; the hard-to-find tamales de elote—served unfilled or "blind"—were remarkably sweet, squiggled with crema and salsa verde and dotted with queso fresco. Like the tortillas, they're handmade. There's a tequila bar, and wine pairings available with the chef's tasting menu.
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