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Warm, colorful storefront offering classic moles as well as handmade tortillas and some unusual tamales.

Our Review

The sign in the window of this storefront on Cicero near Belmont advertises "tortillas hecho a mano," handmade tortillas, but inside you'll find much more than that. Chef-owner Carlos Tello is a specialist in moles, and his mother-in-law, Clementina Flores Bahena (mother of Geno), also has a hand in them here. On my first visit I savored four: a dark, chocolaty negro, a just slightly hot rojo, the fruit-based manchamanteles, and a mild mole verde made with pumpkin seeds. Tello knows his way around a spice rack: all deliver a quick burn with subtle lightness, the mole verde in particular sparkling with clean flavors. Sopecitos, small masa cups stuffed with moist chicken in mole roja, were magnificently simple; the hard-to-find tamales de elote—served unfilled or "blind"—were remarkably sweet, squiggled with crema and salsa verde and dotted with queso fresco. Like the tortillas, they're handmade. There's a tequila bar, and wine pairings available with the chef's tasting menu.

David Hammond

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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