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CLOSED. Family-run rib joint in Jefferson Park.

Our Review

Bright, spacious, and spotless, with nary a hint of wood smoke from the well-ventilated Southern Pride smoker, Smokey's BBQ has established itself as a northwest-side neighborhood go-to place in record time. Cops, construction workers, moms with kids in tow and, on one visit, a group of barbecue-loving priests dig into meaty baby back ribs that, lightly smoked with a hint of dry-rub heat, skate dangerously close to being fall-off-the-bone without quite crossing the line. Brisket, pulled pork, and turkey are offered only as sandwiches, either stand-alone or in combinations of mini sandwiches. The Trifecta, three minis with slaw and a second side for $9.95, makes for a filling, well-priced meal. Of the three meats, smoky, tender brisket is the clear winner, with pulled pork running second and turkey breast crossing the finish line a distant third. Moist smoked salmon, Uncle Kenny's Mediterranean ribs--tasty and surprisingly well-balanced baked ribs seasoned with the classic Greek combination of lemon and oregano--and a pair of salads round out the main courses. There's a respectable selection of sides including cheesy potatoes, a baked potato, brisket-studded baked beans with a hint of molasses, and a southwestern corn medley, a riff on maque choux. Service is friendly and efficient, and there's a party room available.

Gary Wiviott

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