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Straightforward American menu in an old train car next to the Matchbox.

Our Review

It's no Orient-Express, but this 85-foot-long vintage train car, named after the Atlantic Coast Line passenger run from Chicago to Florida, does serve dinner. Next door to the tiny Matchbox tavern (and owned by the same guy), the restaurant's entrance, featuring a sporty oak bar and wood trim, gives the impression it might be upscale. But inside the train car itself, low ceilings, dim lighting, and muted gray tones make it feel more like a diner. The food is classic American and well prepared, with dishes presented straightforwardly in spite of their gimmicky names: Florida East Coast Railway shrimp cocktail, Erie Railroad spicy duck wings, and Chicago & North Western Lines prime rib of beef. Dessert might be the best thing on the menu, with an apple pie that's out of this world. Most impressive is the reasonably priced wine list, which offers nice bottles without vintage designations from names like Gary Farrell, Cain Vineyard, and Chateau La Nerthe, almost all of which are available by the glass.

Laura Levy Shatkin

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Price: $$
Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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