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Sleek new restaurant in the former Cafe Matou space; it promises authentic Thai.

Our Review

I'm not sure what this slick Thai spot's claims of authenticity are founded on. Most of the offerings on its extensive menu--described with spare, Alinea-like concision--don't seem much different from those at legions of Ameri-Thai restaurants. The pad thai is reliably treacly, thin red curry with chicken is one-dimensionally incendiary, and deep-fried spring rolls--one unceremoniously dolloped with watery crabmeat--practically beg to be forgotten. I certainly don't begrudge chefs the chance to westernize traditional cuisines, but some of the kitchen's experiments here go utterly awry: som tom is tossed not with raw shreds but papaya deep-fried like Durkee fried onions; there's also a dish called "Thai Coon." Attempts made to artfully plate this food on chinaware do little to improve it.

Mike Sula

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