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Replacing late, lamented neighborhood joint Duke’s, Sidecar, owned by the proprietors of nearby bar the Glenwood, represents the creep of gentrification in Rogers Park; when it opened, the RedEye heralded a new north-side “gayborhood.” Inside it’s sleek and dim, and the clientele is mostly gay-professional. I thought a manhattan—a classic concoction in the vein of this bar’s namesake—would be a good test of the place’s mettle, and ended up with a vermouth-drowned tragedy that set me back $10—about twice Duke’s price at, it must be said, about half its quality. So I dunno. Maybe try the martinis? —Sam Worley

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