Tickled as we were to have dinner at Rise, the better brother of Shine, we were downcast midway through a meal here that barely managed a glimmer. Sesame calamari fried with onions and jalapeños was a promising start, but our spirits sank with the sashimi, which was nowhere near the quality we enjoyed at Rise: nothing popped, spoke of the sea, or hinted of any good taste. Singapore noodles were described on the menu as served with the customary yellow curry, but we couldn’t discern that flavor or much else in this mediocre mess. Entrees were depressingly cloying: both crispy asparagus with seafood and beef tenderloin in orange sauce were drenched in treacle more appropriate on an ice cream sundae. Never before have we needed silverware to eat stir-fry, though the butter knife our server gave us after we asked for some cutting implement proved powerless to slice through bullet-proof tenderloin. On the drive home, I rolled down the window and stuck out my head, slurping air like a dog, trying to wind-scrub away a taste-memory best forgotten.
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