The keys to happiness at Seven Treasures are many: Chinese barbecue, noodles in soup with fresh shrimp wontons, congee (rice porridge), simple vegetable dishes prepared with oyster sauce or fermented tofu. Start with a quick perusal of the gorgeous full-frontal barbecue display--crisp roast pig, succulent duck, red-tinted pork, and moist soya chicken served with astoundingly flavorful ginger-scallion oil. Tasty pork broth heaped with wontons and a tangle of noodles makes for an inexpensive lunch, though a "double" on rice (your choice of two barbecued meats) is one of the better deals in Chicago. It's not that there isn't the full spectrum of Cantonese-American classics here--egg foo yong with lifeless cornstarch-laden gravy, a ridiculously sticky-sweet version of sweet-and-sour pork, crab Rangoon--it's just that you don't want or need them. Damn good table chile oil, service that ranges from adequate to good, well-spaced tables, and late hours help ensure Seven Treasures' continued popularity.
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