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Suburban rib joint where smoked meats dominate and carryout is a good choice.

Our Review

A legend and a local favorite, Russell’s has been doing business since 1930 along a curvy stretch of tree-lined Thatcher Road in the dingy shadow of Maywood Park Racetrack. A big part of its allure is no doubt the building itself, which sports a tall white chimney with the restaurant’s name running down the sides in red neon, and an eating area out back with Depression-era brown-red picnic tables. Inside, every night of the week, you’ll find large tables full of families comfortably lounging, alternatively sucking their fingers and rib bones. The ribs here are done all-American style, with a fall-off-the-bone tenderness favored by many though scorned by BBQ aficionados. Prices are reasonable, though: a full slab of ribs, with nicely browned fries and vinegary coleslaw, sets you back $13.99, which ain’t bad. I prefer them cooked without their signature sauce (available in bottles to go).

David Hammond

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