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Theater district location of the high-end steak house.

Our Review

On the main floor of this boudoirish steak house, the huge red-velvet-draped window, incongruously flanked by plasma TVs, offers a luxe view of the Bank One lobby. A glance at the menu and you see why an ATM might be necessary. But it’s no surprise that the latest outlet of the local chain known for its staid food and gargantuan portions would be pricey. What is surprising is how poorly it executes the standards: almost everything at Rosebud Prime is subprime. For $10 you get a closefisted pour of Maker’s Mark, for $12 a weak martini, dispensed at the table with a flourish defeated by the drink’s paltriness. Oysters Rockefeller were respectable, served on a gritty bed of seasoned salt, each half shell retaining a bit of oyster liquor. Also on the plus side was the complimentary bread basket, including a crisp, cheesy flatbread and a raisin pump—I enjoyed it before the waiter snatched it from the table. If he intended to help us save room for our steaks, he needn’t have bothered: a $32 petite filet mignon, ordered medium rare and served well past medium, is hard to swallow under any circumstances. Give the kitchen some credit—I was jealously eyeing my companion’s $45 Chicago rib eye, juicy and cooked the requested shade of pink. But soggy pommes frites made a bad thing worse, and I left thinking of all the good places I could have gone for the money.

Kate Schmidt

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Price: $$$$$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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