Forget foams, gels, pellets, and powders. At Restaurant Michael chef Michael Lachowicz and his crew carry on the French culinary tradition he acquired under Jean Banchet and Roland Liccioni at Le Francais, spinning out traditional preparations with the occasional lighter sauce typical of nouvelle cuisine. A traditional paté presentation includes an orb of velvety chicken liver and a rich, rough country paté with cornichons--no surprises but surpassingly pleasing. Spring pea soup with fresh favas and a crab cake is a sweet double blast from land and sea, and salade Lyonnaise, with perfectly poached egg and crunchy lardons, reflects time Lachowicz spent cooking in Lyon. Sea bass arrives in small fillets, flash fried crispy in butter and arranged around a central mound of cheesy potatoes. Terrifically tasty plump quail breasts repaid the effort it took to gnaw small bones, and a warm blueberry-almond financier with a ginger-almond ice cream sandwich still haunts my dreams.
Price: $$$$
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