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Butcher, bakery, and sandwich shop from Paul Kahan and One Off Hospitality. Tuesday burger nights pit PQM staff against visting chefs

Our Review

The boundless meatopia of this butcher-baker-sandwich-maker adjunct to Paul Kahan's Publican is an overwhelming environment: a staggering cornucopia of meats—cured, encased, and fresh—plus a smartly curated collection of dry goods, fresh rustic breads, and a freezer case full of frozen geese, wild boar roasts, and tubs of house-made stock. Even the sandwich menu—touting, e.g., the nduja-and-dandelion focaccia, the poached-tuna muffaletta, the pork-belly gyro, and beef meatball on a lobster roll—prompts neck cramping and indecision. A simple means of end-running this dilemma—provided you have a partner—is to order the "butcher's meal," or cocido. That's a Spanish national dish of infinite variation, an olla, or stew pot, of meat and chickpeas usually served in courses: a porky, sometimes cinnamon-spiked broth, followed by various sausages and tender slow-cooked cuts, then the legumes, then the vegetables. At PQM it arrives in a large Le Creuset ceramic dutch oven, barely containing a bubbling, golden, fat-enriched broth brimming with chickpeas; potato; dense, tangy chorizo; earthy, rich blood sausage; and tender slow-cooked beef shin meat. A separate plate of roasted carrots, charred cabbage, pickled peppers, mint, cilantro, and mojo picon, a garlicky red pepper sauce from the Canary Islands, customizes your bowl with acidity and herbaceousness. Add to that a warm mini baguette, and this is one of the greatest values in the city.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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