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Surprisingly cheery for a former Sizzler with a view of a Jewish cemetery, Priscilla's cafeteria-style meat and two hits the soul food highlights. Fried chicken's a study in textural point/counterpoint, crisp skin giving way to moist, yielding, interior flesh so juicy you run the risk of ruining your shirt. Tender greens are the perfect accompaniment, their bitterness rounded out by little cubes of cured pork. Less successful are the slightly undercooked baked beans, bland mac 'n' cheese, and acidic spaghetti, but sweet potatoes aren't bad, and mashed potatoes are fantastic, rich, creamy, and doused with silky-smooth house-made gravy. Bread pudding isn't coma-inducingly sweet, and pecan pie is pleasant. The vinegary hot sauce on each table round out a soul-satisfying experience. —Gary Wiviott

Our Review

Surprisingly cheery for a former Sizzler with a view of a Jewish cemetery, Priscilla's cafeteria-style meat and two hits the soul food highlights with varying degrees of dexterity. Fried chicken's a study in textural point/counterpoint, crisp skin giving way to moist, yielding interior flesh so juicy you run the risk of ruining your shirt. Tender greens are the perfect accompaniment, their bitterness rounded out by little cubes of cured pork. Less successful are the slightly undercooked baked beans, bland mac 'n' cheese, and acidic spaghetti, but sweet potatoes aren't bad, and mashed potatoes are fantastic, rich, creamy, and doused with silky-smooth house-made gravy. Short ribs are inconsistent, tender and bursting with flavor on one visit, stringy and flavorless on the next. Pork chops suffer the same steam-table-inflicted fate, fork-tender one day, knife-bendingly tough another. Bread pudding isn't coma-inducingly sweet, and pecan pie is pleasant. Service is efficient, diligently providing refills of water, soda, or sweet tea, and daily specials, reasonable prices, and the vinegary hot sauce on each table round out a soul-satisfying experience.

Gary Wiviott

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