This Texas-themed spot from the former owners of Tizi Melloul excited interest for its use of local, natural meats when it first opened, but failed to satisfy those hoping for another Smoque out of the box. With time they’ve found their own groove, though. The stunner is the pork belly pastrami, a voluptuously salty and fatty dish that may nevertheless be too much of a good thing for one person to finish a whole sandwich of. Beef pastrami is likewise a salt bomb, but full of robust beefy flavor. The more conventional barbecue meats such as the pulled pork can be too light on smoke and too heavy on salty rub, but apart from being softer than the genuine article, Texas brisket is a first-rate imitation of hill-country 'cue, especially with the tangy ancho-tinged sauce, which reminds one of Arthur Bryant's, and the brisket taco is a nice innovation. Saint Louis ribs with a light dose of sweet sauce are the better of two rib offerings. There are fresh-cut fries and a sweet, fruity coleslaw, but the most interesting side compared to other barbecue joints may be the liquor license and the assortment of beers and bourbons available.
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