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Mexican standards near Sox Park.

Our Review

Set aside the logo of a mustachioed pistolero firing wildly (sanctioned, I suppose, by the Bureau for the Preservation of Unflattering Ethnic Stereotypes), and there's a predictable lineup of gringo-pleasing entrees on offer in this bright, clean room decorated with bright, clean Mexican landscapes. The huachinango a la Veracruzana varies the traditional recipe for red snapper Veracruz style by substituting diced avocado for the usual green olives, which works in terms of color but diminishes the complexity of the dish. A signature dish, carne asada, is a good char-grilled skirt steak, a sure bet for those who appreciate a mouth-filling slab o' meat; bistec a la Mexicana, chopped outer skirt steak cooked in a ranchero sauce, was juicy and packed a bit more peppery punch than the other dishes we had. Pancho Pistolas serves beer and margaritas; breakfast, including chilaquiles, is available too.

David Hammond

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