Of the dozens of Thai storefronts dotting Chicago neighborhoods, some are good, most are not, and only a few stand out. Opart Thai House in Lincoln Square is one of those few. With more than 100 items on the menu, it offers the gamut of flavors, from sweet to kick-ass spicy, and a huge variety of ingredients. Appetizers include three versions of charbroiled beef with spicy Thai sauces (the Tiger Cry is a must), along with crispy sweet-and-sour mee krob, spring rolls, and satay. Salads (larb, nam sod, and green papaya, among others) are meals in themselves. The many curry, noodle, and rice dishes are sauteed or stir-fried with seafood, poultry, beef, or one of endless combinations of fresh vegetables and sauces. Some tasty favorites include pad king (sauteed ginger, onions, mushrooms, and pea pods), pad kra praow (sauteed basil, hot peppers, and garlic over rice), and seafood with green and white onions. It's BYO, with a liquor store right next door. There's a second city location in the South Loop (1906 S. State, 312-567-9898).
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