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CLOSED DUE TO A FIRE. House-made flour tortillas and reasonably priced standards from the Mexican state of the same name. Cash only.

Our Review

They serve a heap o’ flour tortillas and meat in the northerly Mexican state of Nuevo Leon, and for more than 40 years this restaurant has done a fine job of doing the same. Tacos de sabinas are house-made white tortillas with a soft, crepelike consistency—they seem to melt around strips of seasoned steak. Mashed pintos mixed with spicy Mexican sausage, frijoles con chorizo is a densely textured accompaniment that’s worth every calorie. Carne a la tampiquena is the classic skirt steak—found all over Mexico and the menu—with beans, enchilada, and guacamole, steak’s soul mate. We really liked the guisado de puerco in salsa roja, a piquant stew with slow-cooked, chile-sauce-saturated pork. Pig also makes an appearance in tangy tamales. If you come earlier in the day, consider ordering some of the renowned breakfast chilaquiles or machacado con huevo (seasoned steak in egg). You can BYO, or for a couple bucks get a cup of foamy, cinnamony Mexican cocoa. Cash only.

David Hammond

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