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Casual reinvention of the Park Hyatt's seventh-floor restaurant under executive chef Ryan LaRoche; Meg Galus (Tru, Cafe des Architectes) is pastry chef.

Our Review

A lot has changed at the Park Hyatt's signature seventh-floor restaurant. Most drastically, the highly refined, progressive, seafood-dominant French menu that established NoMi's Michelin-starred splurgeworthiness has been replaced by a something-for-everyone seasonal American selection. That's not to say chef Ryan LaRoche, who worked under the old version's Christophe David, is slacking. NoMi's famed sushi program and raw bar is the exceedingly sophisticated counterpoint to the minimalized dishes on the main menu. The lush smoked kampachi crudo, intricately arranged and delicately garnished with slices of green olive and bits of salty black garlic, or the floppingly fresh signature spicy tuna roll with a yellowtail and salmon sashimi duo accompanied by fresh grated wasabi are some of the few artifacts of the luxurious past. Things are significantly simpler as the menu progresses with the familiar seared diver scallops, steaks, roast chicken, and token pastas and charcuterie offered in innumerable restaurants around town. But at least the NoMi team expertly executes them. A few dishes rise above the rest: a small side of tagliolini with grated bottarga and grape tomatoes was one of the most outstanding things I ate, and a clear artichoke soup swimming with root vegetables and a crostini on the side topped with Benton's ham hock and snails effectively linked the elegance of the past to the rusticity of the present. But ultimately almost nothing was unforgettable, apart from a plank of crunchy phyllo topped with chocolate ganache and a light blueberry mousse from pastry chef Meg Galus. Nothing lasts forever; still, it's a shame NoMi's no longer a truly unique restaurant. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$$
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