Though its possibly the only Albanian pizzeria in town, Nolis sells New York-style pizza. Its too bad that the Albanians havent seemed to master the delicate alchemy of coaxing a red-tinged grease out of their cheese in the manner of a good New York pie. Maybe they dont cook it long enough, or hot enough. Maybe theres too much cheese and not enough sauce, or the crust is too doughy. Maybe theyve put too much effort into their Hawaiian pizza, but the New York style here is, at best, only for emergencies. What Nolis does do well is the hot puffy Balkan pastry called borek. Pulled from the oven, they look like phyllo balloons straining upward against their meat, cheese, or spinach ballast. The ground meat borek is bland, but the cheese variety is filled with a thick, slightly sharp white cheese, and the spinach is a tangy amalgamation of greens and cheese. The oven turns out sweet pastries and fresh bread by the loaf, and the refrigerator is filled with tubs of house-made yogurt. These things are good for the road, but the hot stuff doesnt travel well, so its best to eat on the premises.
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