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Jared Van Camp's opulent homage to the French villa where the Rolling Stones recorded Exile on Main Street.

Our Review

Named for Villa Nellcôte, the 19th-century Côte d'Azur mansion where the Rolling Stones recorded Exile on Main Street, Jared Van Camp's cavernous Randolph Row restaurant is clad in wrought iron and marble, and drips with crystal light. As you might imagine, Nellcote's a crowded, loud party, its high-tops, booths, and communal tables packed with see-and-be-scenesters. But there are plenty of good tastes on the menu, many of them the result of Van Camp's ambitious grain-to-table program, which has the kitchen milling its own flour for bread, pasta, and pizza. A trio of breads with cultured butter offers a bargain-priced snapshot to lead off the large selection of sharable plates. Van Camp's southern-Italian-style spaghetti, lightly dressed with tomato and bread crumbs and salted with cured tuna loin shavings, is thick and ruddy, with a pronounced nutty flavor that sets a new standard for restaurant pasta arts. Similarly, his black-squid-ink strozzapreti—gnarly cavatelli-like twists tossed with sweet lobster and chile—and the radiatore—dark brown corkscrews with duck, mushrooms, and pork cracklings—are among the most scarfable peasant-style pastas I've encountered. Van Camp's pizza crusts are singular too, the grass-fed beef of the genre. Whether you choose to order these topped with simple tomato, garlic, and olive oil; mortadella, pistachio, and red onion; or truffle and sunny-side up eggs, the crust is what's most important here: crispy and unusually inelastic. There are some other real knockouts on this menu, in particular a smoky grilled lamb loin paired with braised neck meat and gnocchi. The short selection of desserts is distinguished by house-made ice creams and sorbets, and what's turning out to be something of a signature: a lightly soaked baba al rhum dressed with the filthy sounding "bachelor's jam," which is really a booze-soaked preserve of a season's worth of fruit. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Bar Details

Named for Villa Nellcôte, the 19th-century Côte d'Azur mansion where the Stones recorded Exile on Main Street, this cavernous Randolph Street space is clad in wrought iron and marble and drips with crystal light. A crowded, loud party, Nellcote's high-tops, booths, and communal tables are packed with see-and-be-scenesters swilling from a short, overly sweet cocktail list. But there's also a remarkably deep beer selection and a captivating wine list. —Mike Sula

Upcoming Events

  • Nellcôte (New Year's Eve Parties & Events)

    • Sat 12/31, 9 PM-1:30 AM $105-$115

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