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Lincoln Square Greek restaurant promising home-style authenticity; it's BYO.

Our Review

For years people have been predicting that Greek food is headed for a renaissance, so I was hoping it was finally here when this BYOB double storefront opened. Early press suggested sister act Toni Di Meola and Vicky Zervas were dishing up lovingly prepared, unique specialties in a welcoming atmosphere far removed from the weary spectacle of Greektown tourist traps (they flame the saganaki in the kitchen, not at the table). But Lincoln Square is something of a Little Greektown, and in its own way Mythos is just as theatrical, with the voluble Di Meola running the front of the house and Zervas making frequent appearances from the kitchen. While the food is certainly an improvement over Halsted—actual Greeks are eating here—I'm not joining the lovefest. A few things were very good: the loukaniko sausage (made by an off-site producer), fragrant with fennel and orange peel, is terrific, as are the garlicky tzatziki and the zucchini-and-cheese fritters, kolokytho keftedes, with a side of skordalia for schmearing. But most of the flesh I've tried—psaronefri, pork tenderloin in mustard sauce; Papou's Tygania, pork chunks sauteed in white wine; mbiftekia feta, kind of a Greek cheeseburger, hold the bun—was brought out overcooked, its proteins toughened from a graceless application of heat. Most tragically, a grouper baked in garlic butter was so thoroughly murdered that for all I know it might have been a river carp. Much has been made about the made-to-order pastichio, essentially an unspectacular-tasting bowl of pasta and ground meat, with a hint of cinnamon. It's just one of many dishes here that look good on paper, less so on the plate.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, MasterCard, Visa

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