Under new management after the split of founding owners Katie and Eusebio Garcia, Mundial Cocina Mestiza dialed up both its presentation and prices. Decked out with dark drapes and heavy tablecloths, the Pilsen storefront is close and even somewhat stuffy. The menu shops at the same pan-Latin/global bazaar as ever: squash blossoms, huitlacoche, and chorizo here; salmon, tamarind there; queso fresco everywhere. But the results are as scattershot as the geography. Mundial might do well to adapt the advice of Coco Chanel: when you think your dish is fully dressed, take a look in the mirror and remove one ingredient, sauce, or side before you leave the kitchen.
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