I haven't had a truly noteworthy pulled-pork sandwich since I moved to Chicago more than a decade ago. Until now. John Schultz, aka Mr. Spanky (after the Little Rascals character), barbecues his low and slow, with memorably smoky, juicy results. And that's just one of the "stuffed buns" he rotates daily from about 20 options—Cuban roast pork, cumin-spiced lamb, jerk chicken, hickory-smoked turkey with cranberry-jalapeño jam. His own favorite is the "Bad-Ass B.L.T.," applewood-smoked bacon, fresh spinach, and roasted tomato aioli sandwiched in a puffy Chinese bun from Red Hen Bread. He also offers a regular complement of hot and cold sides: mac 'n' cheese, root-beer-baked beans, a vegetable of the day, and healthy, hearty salads including barley pesto, orzo with feta, and edamame-chickpea. (The sausages and hand-cut bacon that made his name at area farmers' markets are available as well.) There are just four stools, and just Filbert's soda to drink, but this is food you'd be happy eating anywhere, the front curb or the Cell included.
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