Mezcalina inhabits a neighborhood called Lakeshore East, though it might as well be East Bermuda Triangle—enter the address on Google Maps and you'll be pointed straight at an undifferentiated gray block. Once located, this Oaxacan joint from Mexican chef Manuel Bañuelos proves hit-or-miss, though the Mezcalina guacamole is fantastic, garnished with crunchy, salty little grasshoppers (which taste, yup, like grass; also nuts). Three salsas that come gratis are great, too, and so is an aggressively flavored scallop ceviche, spicy and mouth-puckeringly tart. Further down the menu is an intriguing array of options: a couple of moles; banana-leaf-wrapped tamale; pork-stuffed poblano peppers with dried fruit and almond sauce. Battered squash blossoms stuffed with Oaxacan cheese and served with refried beans were good despite the tinny, wan tomato-pasilla sauce that accompanied them. And lamb shank in adobo sauce, while almost inedibly salty, was still some of the best lamb I've had: steamed for eight hours, according to the menu, it was meltingly tender, falling off the bone, with a concentrated meaty flavor. There's a full bar—try the margaritas—and desserts include churros and tres leches cake.
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