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Strip-mall pho joint serving sublime bowls of the Vietnamese beef noodle soup.

Our Review

With all the pho joints around Argyle, there’s always the nagging thought that no matter which one chooses there’s another serving a subtler, more aromatic bowl of the Vietnamese beef noodle soup; among phoficionados such places rise and fall in favor continuously. But Le's Pho, tucked inside a Broadway strip mall along a tight parking lot in perpetual gridlock, continues to dish out sublime bowls of soup. Available in a relatively limited 18 combinations, the potent broth was awaft in a harmonic perfume of ginger, cinnamon, and star anise. Noodles seemed fresh, not precooked, and each bowl was dosed with liberal portions of meat. The pho list is broken into three categories: “For the Beginner,” offering lean cuts of steak, brisket, or meatballs; “A Little Bit of Fat,” which augments those cuts with flank steak, tripe, or fatty brisket; and third and largest, “Adventurer’s Choice,” featuring still fattier cuts and tendon, plus a version with chicken broth. All are accompanied by the usual garnishes—fresh lime, jalapeño, mint leaves, and bean sprouts—and the truly heroic can request a small bowl of luxuriant golden fat to drizzle on top. Fruit shakes, coffee drinks, and several varieties of che, the popular pudding-type sweet, fill out the menu.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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