Cantonese cuisine is characterized by light sauces and a minimum of spice or heat, which permits the natural goodness of the ingredients to shine through. We enjoyed the salt-and-pepper shrimp--fried, seasoned with little more than that, and meant to be eaten shells, heads, and all. Crispy-skin chicken came as advertised and was wonderfully meaty, seasoned again with just a touch of salt. Crab served in the shell sometimes seems more trouble than its worth, but here its baked with ginger and onion, two staples of Cantonese seasoning, and the shell breaks cleanly for easy access to the sweet meat. Stir-fried tong choi with spicy bean sauce is a huge platter of tender shoots, a little like spinach only more delicate, in a sauce that's a far cry from Szechuan fire; stir-fried fish fillets, flavorful and lightly breaded, could hardly get any simpler. You might try Lee Wing Wah's chicken chow mein just to see how good this often Americanized dish can be: toothsome chunks of chicken over hard noodles crisped in a casserole and served with an almost neutral sauce. Lee Wing Wah is BYO with a $5 corkage fee per table, and there's a host of bubble drinks.
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