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Cicero storefront offering tortas and enchiladas in the style of San Luis Potosi.

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There aren’t many eating options within walking distance of the ultimate stop of the Pink Line and Cicero Stadium. But about four months ago the humble Las Tortugas de San Luis opened a block south of the stadium, specializing in a particular variant of the common Mexican torta. LTDSL makes seven varieties in the style of the north-central state of San Luis Potosi. These sandwiches are smaller than your typical torta and made with sturdier ovoid-shaped “Portuguese” rolls, which look and taste suspiciously like those Cuisine de France sourdough mini baguettes found in supermarkets and convenience stores (you could do worse). Filled with ham and cheese, grilled chicken, rib eye, pork, chorizo and egg, queso fresco, or the breaded steak milanesa, they’re dressed with lettuce, tomato, jalapeño slivers, mayo, mustard, and avocado. I like these dainty, compact little tortas (hold the mayo), which come with thick seasoned wedge-cut fries. The rest of the menu is dominated by buffalo wings, mozz sticks, burgers, hot dogs, and for breakfast, pancakes and eggs, but on weekends there’s menudo and that other famous San Luis Potosi dish, enchiladas potosinas--ancho-chile-infused masa pressed into tortillas, stuffed with chicken and cheese, folded over, and fried.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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