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Restaurant in the old Jazz Showcase offering a range of pizzas and a large wine list with 250 by the bottle and multiple options by the glass.

Our Review

Can I go on record predicting the late-aught resurgence of deep-dish pizza? With thin-crust, Neopolitan-style pies flying out of wood-burning ovens all over town, a backlash can't be far behind. One of the entries in this crowded field is La Madia, a pizzeria and wine bar from owner Jonathan Fox, formerly COO at Maggiano's. Housed in the space where the Jazz Showcase used to be, the restaurant is simultaneously sleek and warm, with a bar up front and a long row of booths lining one wall. A floor-to-ceiling wall of wine provides visual focus--unsurprising given the dizzying oenophilic options; there's something in the neighborhood of 250 bottles, many available by the four- or seven-ounce pour, with prices for some topping $500. It's all very impressive, but the list is so overwhelming that a little guidance might have been nice. As for the pies, they're delicious. A soft, slightly chewy thin crust showcases the pure flavors of fantastic house-made fennel sausage, fresh arugula and prosciutto, and other select toppings like a sweetly savory combo of Taleggio and roasted vin santo grapes that hung in tricky, but ultimately successful balance. It may be personal preference, but I appreciated the liberal hand with the cheese--there was noticeably more holding up that fennel sausage than I've found on similar pies at Coalfire or Spacca Napoli. The staff was unflaggingly patient as my friend and I waited (and waited) on a third to join us late Sunday night. And on a bitter winter night the blasting heat from the oven is a welcome bonus.

Martha Bayne

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Price: $$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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