Michael and Mary Mastricola, both former U. of C. students and longtime Hyde Park residents, decamped to Paris in the mid-90s so Mary could attend the Cordon Bleu cooking school, then returned to Chicago to open this charming restaurant serving spectacular baguettes and a wide range of French classics with a menu that changes frequently. Begin, for example, with an Alsatian onion tart or smoked pheasant salad. Elegant entrees follow--perhaps a rabbit saddle stuffed with a truffled veal mousse. The three-course, $32 prix fixe menu is available from 5 to 6:30 PM only and also changes periodically. Each incarnation offers a choice of soup or salad (or appetizer from the more expensive menu), a main course, and dessert. The strictly French wine list is ably selected and reasonably priced; it works especially well with the seasonal assortment of imported cheeses.
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