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Mike Sula

Family-run mariscos place with beachlike outdoor seating.

Our Review

This BYO mariscos place boasts the recommendation of no less a discriminating personage than Goat King Juan Zaragoza (Birrieria Zaragoza), and that's not just because of the giant gore-pussed great white shark that announces its presence on the carswept corner of Damen and 34th or the palm-thatched umbrellas that mimic a Mexican seaside joint. Among the cocteles, ceviches, and deep bowls of fishy soups, there are hombre-size platters of things like the mataviejitas ("lady killer"), a "sauce -smathered" combo of shrimp, octopus, and oysters, and the rompecolchon, or "mattress breaker," sauteed shrimp, octopus, and krab on a mountain of rice, said to bestow such strength upon the amorous that the typical unreinforced box spring simply doesn't have a chance. In terms of taste, what really works for this dish, and many others other on La Palapa's menu, is the dissolute use of butter, which slicks the rice and seafood, adding richness to the more piercing contributions of onions, tomato, jalapeƱo, and cilantro. You see this across the menu, particularly with dishes like camarones La Palapa, seasoned with a secret house-made sauce that a manager I asked would only admit contained butter and "some spices." Read more >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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