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CLOSED. French bistro that packs in the heretofore frite-deprived Beverlyites.

Our Review

Sitting down at Koda, Beverly's only French bistro, we were immediately engaged by diners saying how happy they were that folks from "far away" had made the trip. It's one worth taking--the chef is Aaron Browning, late of Everest and Brasserie Jo. French onion soup was dark and rich, luscious escargots in green garlic butter plump and flavorful. Seductive salads included one of shaved fennel and cucumber and a delicious melange of red and golden beets with blue cheese. Not every bistro item is traditionally prepared: the onion tart was more like a crisp pizza, but with succulent pancetta and sweated sweet onions, scrumptious. A "progressive" wine list (sequenced from mild- to full- bodied) has a few good glasses: a 2004 Fouassier Sancerre with a soft smack of honeyed fruit and a 2003 California merlot that works well with meat. Steak frites featured fresh-cut fries and a good piece of beef, and the lamb chops were magnificent, not the generic variety that sometimes surfaces even at decent places. For dessert we went with a shortbread cookie stuffed with berries (fabulous) and a chocolate tart with hazelnut truffle and coconut sorbet (also fabulous). Be warned: Koda doesn't take reservations, and what with the neighborhood heat weekend waits can hit 60 minutes plus.

David Hammond

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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