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Fresh, flavorful, and relatively grease-free pan-Asian options in Roscoe Village.

Our Review

If "Mandarin and Sushi" seems like it might be a stretch, don’t worry--the menu at this minimalist-chic Roscoe Village spot also claims to offer Szechuan, Hunan, Mongolian, and Shanghai dishes. As you quickly gather from the list of Chinese-American standards, the food's overarching nationality is Deliverian, but given the rather wan Asian takeout scene in Lakeview, Kite scores points for being relatively fresh, flavorful, and easy on the grease. Tender and velvety ginger-and-onion beef had the bright flavor of the visible chunks of ginger stirred into it. Stalwarts like sesame crispy chicken and moo shu pork were pleasant if undistinguished, but the scallion pancakes were a sad mockery of the delicate, generously overstuffed versions available in Chinatown and on Argyle Street. Perhaps the best thing about Kite is that the sushi has improved from the afterthought it seemed to be when the restaurant first opened. Pieces are on the small side, and the shrimp had a slight off taste, but salmon, maguro, and unagi were all quite good for the price, and make Kite a contender for Lakeview residents in need of an inexpensive fish fix.

Mike Gebert

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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