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Loop outpost of the Oak Park Indian restaurant.

Our Review

Khyber Pass, the Loop outpost of the Oak Park Indian restaurant, is a little hard to find. Located in a mall beneath a condo high-rise between the Hyatt and the Swissotel, it has the look and feel of an airport restaurant. Named after the famous mountain passage connecting Pakistan and Afghanistan, Khyber Pass features the food of the Pathans, the region's nomadic settlers, and specializes in dumbuc (steaming) in addition to the more familiar tandoori cooking. That said, the menu and quality are fairly standard for Indian fare, with appetizers like samosas and kebabs, mango lassis (not too tangy but too much ice), and lamb, chicken, seafood, and vegetable dishes. One standout, however, is the naan--there are about a dozen varieties, many of them stuffed with meats, vegetables, and cheeses. We tried a few and all were delicious, especially the moist and chewy onion kulcha. If you're hosting a family reunion, consider the Bakra-e-Khyber, a whole baby lamb that's marinated overnight then roasted. It serves 15-20 people and costs $275 (48-hour notice required). Perhaps not surprisingly, portions here are very generous, and the extensive lunch buffet seems to be a big draw.

Ryan Hubbard

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa, Other

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