Kaufman's Bagel and Delicatessen is one of the last of a dying breed of triple-threat grocery store/bakery/sandwich shop combos, with a well-stocked cooler and racks of dry packaged items, a separate baked goods annex, and a seating area. Here are four types of corned beef: supertrim, lean, regular, and deckle, the last being the fatty brisket end and definitely what you want if you're a fan of flavor. Salami also comes in three types—soft, medium, and hard—with soft being the youngest and hard being the oldest, possessed of the densest texture and deep, concentrated flavor. There are even two types of house-made pickles: old, which having been brined longer are more salty and garlicky, and new, which are crunchier. And there are two types of whitefish salad: Chicago style, smooth with mayo, and New York style, a tart version that sets in relief the high-flavor fat of the fish. In freezer cabinets are other Ashkenazi mainstays including varnishkas (buckwheat groats and noodles), holishkes (baked cabbage rolls), and cholent (meat and potato stew).
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