At Kansaku its not easy to resist the seductive and colorful signature rolls: we had the Fiesta, a tangy cigar of salmon, tuna, jalapeño, and cilantro, as well as the appetizer Citrus Spring Roll, a spicy tuna paste with cucumber and avocado peeking through translucent rice paper. Both of these nouveau Asian items were fine, but my recommendation is to stick with more traditional sashimi or sushi and savor incredily fresh finned things shipped in several times a week to this atmospherically lit, stylish, and friendly place. We had a buttery escolar, rich enough to smear on bread, and tuna sliced thick as a ham steak and so transcendently tender I couldnt bear to defile it with soy and wasabi. To drink you might try an unfiltered sake like ozeki nigori, a tongue-coating, floral, richly textured beverage suitable as aperitif or with dinner; a more expensive filtered sake seemed neutered by comparison.
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